tip on radiator replacement - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

nellotare · #1 10-29-2004, 08:42 AM

My car is in a friend's driveway in Rocky Mount (has been for the last week) with disintegrated neck of radiator. I bought a CSF one (doesn't have the metal in the neck either) and will be going to fix it on Saturday. I have searched and read many posts about this problem/fix, but was wondering if anyone had any special advice regarding removal of old and sliding in new radiator.

I'll have my Haynes book with me.. and know it might be "stuck" with gunk and I might need to "pry" a bit to release sides. will jack front end up etc. Can the small hoses be plugged with golf tees (ala vaccuum hoses) or is there something else I should use to help keep fluids in?

Any DYI advice will be appreciated. Thanks.

tangofox007 · #2 10-29-2004, 10:18 AM

If you elevate the front of the vehicle, you won't get much leakage out of the transmission lines. If they are original, this would be a good time to replace the flexible transmission lines. It is best to unbolt the oil cooler from the radiator and leave it in place. If you decide to remove the oil cooler lines, be very careful not to damage the fittings. You have steel fittings on the lines, aluminum on the cooler. Application of some penetrating oil today will be a good idea. You might want to think about replacing the oil cooler lines if they are original, also. You can find a kit to install a metal sleeve in the radiator neck at www.**************.com.

With regard to the radiator neck failure, what type of antifreeze did you use, and how often was it changed?

nellotare · #3 10-29-2004, 06:52 PM

Thanks Tango, especially about the oil cooler lines. Yes, replacing any old lines/hoses will be done at this time. As far as coolant and changing etc., I bought the car used so I have no idea what was used before me. I always had a problem with the temp running above normal and way toward hot at times so I believe the crack was in the neck from day one of my ownership. When I tightened the hose I put the finishing touches on the neck by crushing the bottom. Because of the high temps and living in FL at the time, I used only water in the summer months, yellow the first few years, and have also used the green. The radiator appears to be original so after 22 years and 258,000 miles.. it doesn't owe me a thing. I just can't wait to get a new one in with the yellow coolant since the cooler months are approaching.. and drive away happy.

Ashman · #4 10-29-2004, 07:19 PM

what kind of car

Alon

nellotare · #5 10-29-2004, 07:23 PM

The 82 300D under my signature. Light Ivory color.. and I've found one just like it in Rocky Mount that's an 83. I could only view it through chain link fence since dealer was closed, so this trip I hope to drive it ect. asking 1700 for it.. I don't need it, but I might have to have it.

nglitz · #6 10-29-2004, 11:51 PM

Part of the **************.com kit for the radiator neck is a wider than OEM clamp for the hose. His idea is that the relatively narrow clamps that MB uses concentrated the forces on a smaller part of the neck and help it break. He also says to not crank down on the clamp's screw too hard.

FWIW,

ericgr · #7 10-30-2004, 05:43 AM

If you search on posts by me (thread I started) you will see DIY notes for the radiator. Use golf tees to plug small oil lines. Spray siicone down the side rails to help get the radiator to slide out more easily. Push up on the radiator from beneath the car if it is stuck in there tightly. Often the original radiator aftermarket (in my case of a 380sl the radiator from radtech was identical to original, heavy metal etc) is almost the same cost of a recore, mine about $300.

tangofox007 · #8 10-30-2004, 10:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nellotare

I just can't wait to get a new one in with the yellow coolant since the cooler months are approaching.. and drive away happy.

Strongly recommend that you use Mercedes coolant or Xerex G-05. There is little difference in price over the other options. There is a school of thought that the use of unapproved coolant (along with infrequent coolant changes) contributes to the degradation of the plastic radiator components, along with other items as well.

haasman · #9 10-30-2004, 01:18 PM

Also do not over-tighten the clamp going to the neck. Whether improper coolant or larger clamp, too much tightening will stress the neck.

Haasman

nellotare · #10 11-02-2004, 09:38 AM

Got back yesterday afternoon with new radiator working just fine. Thanks to all who helped in giving me hints for this first time DYI for me. Everything went relatively smoothly. The only hang-up was the bottom clamp that holds cooler to radiator.. was hard to fit "just right", so we had to unclamp the top one and lift the radiator a little then "slide" the bottom clamp in and lower the radiator back into place.

I have to admit that I got angry before going since I couln't find Zerex coolant anywhere. The places that said on the net that they carried it.. DIDN'T! I had to fill with water and will search around Wilmington again to find the proper coolant.. there is MB Dealer here and I can always get it from them.

Many thanks also to my friend, Shelton.. whose driveway was used and to his neighbor, Henry for getting just as dirty as yours truly during this project. I couldn't have done it without them.. especially Henry's vast assortment of tools that he let us use.

But most of all, thanks to you guys here on this forum for giving support and taking the "fear" out of such a project!