Hello, I have a 1985 380SE automatic. I recently bought the car and it has a problem with the idle. The car would idle at about 1600 RPM's getting about 3V to the Idle control valve, so I did some searching on the web and saw the problem with the idle control module. I took it out and soddered the unit, put it back into the car and started it back up, only to find the car doesnt idle at all and will only stay alive if I give it gas. I checked the volts going into the Idle Control valve, and its getting 12V. Im about to buy another Idle control module, since I see nothing wrong with the control valve and I know of nothing else to try. Any thoughts please?

I forgot to mention that I have done a search and I havent found anything thats useful or different then what I did.

First, you should measure current flow to the idle control valve not voltage. The valve is a solenoid responding to current, not a switch for example responding to voltage. You go inline with the circuit (inline with one lead)in amp mode on your meter, not across the two leads going to the valve-- doing so can cause damage because you are shorting the circuit. You may have damaged your idle control unit if you did this persistently and you will probably hear a noise (a bad one) when shorting over the valve.

Second, correct current does not mean the valve itself is operating properly. It may be dirty or malfunctioning.

A new ICM cured my 380 Se high idle. I tried soldering the old one and cleaning the valve but nothing worked until I replaced the module.
Mike
1985 380 SE 207k
1984 Euro 500SL 102K

Hey smart!
Try disassemlbling the idle valve and throughly clean the carbon out w/ carb cleaner. Replace any dry/cracked rubber hoses that you can get to: Vaccum leaks? I had the same problem w/ my 82 380 prior to rebuilding. Afterwards, the idle is perfect. The control, resolder trick works too...sometimes. If you tap while running, it "may" try to correct itself. Hope this helps! les