Looks normal to me. Does anyone think these readings are wrong? Often alternators don't have much output at idle. In my limited experience 13.2 seems a little low but I have seen in other posts that these Mercedes regulators don't run at 14.4 like some of the others, if I understood correctly.

Mike

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1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine)
1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow)
Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra

my car ignition off:12.8 V with new battery Intersate 91HD
idling 13.9V at battery.
2000 rev 14.1

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Tom 2010 C250 4-matic Sport (Canada)

I like your numbers.

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2007 C 230 Sport.

Dave,

When you replace your battery cables make sure there is no corrosion where they connect to.

I have had good luck cleaning corroded cables by using baking soda mixed with vinegar. I place the baking soda into a baby food jar poor the vinegar in and stick the end of the corroded cable into the mixture. The chemical reaction between the vinegar and baking soda will clean off the corrosion. This only works if the corrosion is near the cable end, if it is corroded within the insulation its time for a new cable.

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Ray
1998 Mercedes E320, 200K Miles
2001 Acura 3.2TL, 178K Miles
1992 Chevy Astro, 205K Miles

dave

i think you found the area of your problem. the only thing "common" between the initial and your last scenario would be the wiring. last summer my 72 wouldn't start and the only problem was corroded primary ignition wiring.

i now keep a supply of metric stainless steel bolts, nuts and a bunch of connecting ends and i automatically change at least the end connectors and screws or nuts with new.

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Thanks Much!
Craig

1972 350sl Red/Blk 117k
1988 420sel charcoal/Blk 140k
1987 420sel gold/tan 128k
See My Cars at:http://mysite.verizon.net/res0aytj/index.html

Pound it to fit then Paint it to match!

There is only First Place and Varying degrees of last!

Old age and deceit will overcome Youth and Enthusiasm every time!

Putting the square peg in the round hole is not hard... IF you do it fast enough!

Old enough to know better but stupid enough to do it anyway!

Check all of the ground wire connections, too. They are as important as the positive wires. One rusty ground can keep you busy for a long time.

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Norm in NJ
Next oil change at 230,000miles

Craig,
The terminals you are changing routinely should be changed often, because they are temporary terminals. You can save all the hastle by having a shop with all the tools replace those with permanent crimp ons. All the grease and little red and green felt things that people put on batteries are entirely unessecary. The biggest cause of all the corossion problems at the terminals is continuing to use a battery that is well past its prime and is gassing severely. When a battery gets to that stage, it only has about $8.00 worth of useful life left. To me it isn't worth the mess and unreliability. I install a new battery before it leaves me stranded.

Peter

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Auto Zentral Ltd.

The biggest cause of all the corossion problems at the terminals is continuing to use a battery that is well past its prime and is gassing severely
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So you are saying that a battery that is in good condition will not cause corrosion problems at the terminals? And when the corrosion starts it is time for a new battery?

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1986 560 SEL (159K miles)

This is a great piece of advice. Getting that last "$8" out of a battery can be an expensive proposition.