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  #1  
Old 12-01-2004, 04:05 PM
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How Do I Drill Out Ignition?

PLEASE please someone tell me how in the world to drill out the ignition to a 1983 380 SEL? I have broken three titanium bits trying, what do they make that steel out of?? I have to replace my ignition assembly, the key broke off in the ignition in position zero so there is now way I can get it into position 1 or 2 so that the wiring cluster will come unplugged and the assembly will come off the steering wheel. From everything I have read and researched the key has to be in position 1 or2 for that to happen so I am up a creek. I have to drill and this ignition is insane!
ANY help, or success stories welcome!!


Thanks,
Meshale
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  #2  
Old 12-01-2004, 04:54 PM
BusyBenz
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Why, just ask any car thief!!! LOL...

Couldn't resist! Maybe it can be explained in a MB service repair manual available in CD, or maybe Haynes.. BB
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  #3  
Old 12-01-2004, 06:19 PM
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As you mentioned, to remove the steering wheel lock from the steering column requires the ignition to go into position 2. This allows a small hardened button to push in so the lock can be removed.
It sounds like probably the only hope now is to work on the entire steering jacket removed, which isn't all that tough. Then you have a few options; You can heat the small button up red-hot with a torch and let it cool slowly, which will remove the metals "temper" to allow it to be drilled out, or I usually just pry back on the steering jacket (with the clamp removed) and that'll allow the steering lock to be withdrawn from the jacket tube. The you'll just need to install a new lock and cylinder.
Gilly
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  #4  
Old 12-01-2004, 07:56 PM
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May help some: 126 frozen steering lock/tumbler removal (fairly easy, but long)
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  #5  
Old 12-03-2004, 10:16 AM
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Thank you...with a couple more q's=)

Hi,
THANK YOU for the help, I have a couple q's about the process that I am not sure how to adjust for and am not sure I completely understand.

for jbaj007: This part of the instructions:.."As per Steve Brotherton, cut the scews for the electrical part of the switch with a carbide disc (3 screws) at the junction of the steering lock/tumbler assy. and the electrical switch portion(aluminum)in the back. It will still be functional, just with slices in the retaining "humps".
.. What I did was push the locking bolt into the assy. with a few choice hammer blows and Viola!...the key worked. The offending pawl in the lock assy. had been released.
..Either way release electrical plug, using screwdriver to get position #2 on the electrical switch if you had to cut, or your key, if the "innards" freed up with the hammer.
..Remove the tumbler at this point if you can rotate key.
"

Since there is no way my key is turning anywhere (broke off) how should I go about this part? If I used the locking bolt/hammer method, I still will have no way to turn the key since it is broke, so is the Steve Brotherton method my only option here and is it going to work with the key broke off in there?

And one last thing, once I get the electrical plug out will I be able to get the tumbler off so I only have to replace it or am I going to need to replace the entire assembly?

I think I can handle this, I am an insane DIYer. I have rewired and installed all kinds of home appliances and managed to fix an entire air conditioning unit in a ford contour that I had been told was going to have to be replaced and would cost 4-500 bucks. I did it myself for about 30.00, so I am PRAYING I can do this because from what I have read this is going to cost a fortune if I have to take it in.

All the help is MUCHO appriciated!!!! I love this old Benz and although it is pretty as a lawn ornament, I much prefer to actually drive it!
Thanks,
Meshale
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  #6  
Old 12-03-2004, 10:33 AM
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Once you get the assembly out of the steering column and the wiring harness off. Just get a whole new or used assembly.
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'84 300D Turbo 240k (Anthracite Grey) - Garage Queen
'83 300D Turbo 220k (Orient Red) - WVO - Wifes daily driver

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  #7  
Old 12-03-2004, 01:19 PM
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If the tumbler won't turn with a big screwdriver in the slot after beating the heck out of the steering lock bolt, cut the screws to the switch. At that point, either get a new steering lock assy or turn the tumbler "shaft" from behind (electrical switch side) or remove the peened "window" as described and see if you can separate the tumbler from the pawl from that angle. FWIW. Good luck
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  #8  
Old 12-03-2004, 05:09 PM
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different way

Have you tried pulling the broken stub of the key out with a dental pick or similar device. I was once able to do this when a friend broke off his key in a renault lecar. It takes patience, but it can be done and you won't have a big mess on your hands when done. Another possibility would be to try sticking the broken off piece (the part that came out) back on with some crazy glue and then pulling it straight out.
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  #9  
Old 12-09-2004, 03:07 PM
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steering wheel bolt insanely tight!!

Okay, I ordered the new assembly and got it in yesterday. I so happily go out and begin following the instructions. Easily got off the instrument panel, under dash panel, horn cover and unattached the horn wire. I went and bought the appropriate sized alan wrench bit (10mm i was told at part store), and I and my husband have been pulling and pushing on that "bleepin" steering wheel bolt for hours. Is there some trick we are not getting?? That thing does not even budge,,,what do we do?
Thanks,
Meshale
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  #10  
Old 12-09-2004, 05:52 PM
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Nothing difficult about it, other than the amount of force required (duh!).
It is normal right-hand thread, just to set your mind at ease about that.
It won't start I assume, so taking it to a shop to have them try an impact wrench isn't an option.
In general what you'd want is a long 1/2" drive breaker bar, add a pipe to it if you need that much force. The steering wheel lock is being replaced anyways, so i wouldn't worry about breaking the lock.
Gilly

Last edited by Gilly; 12-09-2004 at 09:47 PM.
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  #11  
Old 12-09-2004, 06:01 PM
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I'm with Gilly here - you got to put some force on that fastener. Breaker bar with a pipe is how I have done mine. They used that good LockTite on that baby.
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  #12  
Old 12-09-2004, 07:54 PM
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I replaced th steering lock on my '83 300. I imagine your sis about the same. Have you press the small pin on the shaft?
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  #13  
Old 12-10-2004, 12:24 AM
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Thank you guys for all your help, it's funny I was afraid we were going to screw up the steering wheel until it dawned on me as a read the posts, who cares?! I don't want the steering lock to work anyway,LOL....too many hours of working and worrying about this today has muddled the brain! And yes we were terrified that it was a reverse thread and we had been just tightening it, so I am very happy to hear that is not the case. I guess my biggest fear is to strip the bolt. That 10mm is a super tight squeeze and it almost seemed a little big, like it isn't going all the way in but the next size down had just a tiny amount of play which really made us fear stripping it. Does the 10mm head sound right? ( '83 380 sel) I be finding a pipe in the morning, wish me luck.........
~Meshale
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  #14  
Old 12-10-2004, 10:51 AM
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As indicated earlier I recently replaced the entire steering lock on my 300 TD. I did not have to remove the steering wheel. The key was stuck in the #1 position. I used a Drimel tool and cut the three bolts at the hump which held the wiring harness plug. Once this was safely removed I was able to turn the key to the number #2 position, insert a paper clip wire into the release hole and remove the collar and tumbler mechanism. The hardest part for me was removing the complete steering lock because I over looked the small release pin which needed to be pressed to allow the assembly to be removed from the steering column.

On another project I had to remove a steering wheel and I worked and worked and worked to remove the bolt. Finally I went to a friends house who had an air compressor. I used his impact wrench and removed the bolt with one brief pull of the trigger...
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  #15  
Old 12-10-2004, 04:59 PM
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He's not removing the steering wheel. But the clamp that holds the assmbly into the steering column.

And yes its 10mm. None of the ones I've messed with have been on all that tight. Perhaps mine have been messed with in the past.
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'84 300CD Turbo 132k (Anthracite Grey) - WVO - My daily driver - Recently named coo-coo-coupe by my daughter.
'84 300D Turbo 240k (Anthracite Grey) - Garage Queen
'83 300D Turbo 220k (Orient Red) - WVO - Wifes daily driver

I'm not a certified mechanic, but I did stay at a HolidayInn Express last night.
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