I hvae a 1982 300td,138k on the od.-- it bounces on the bumpy roads a good bit,in fact a little to much,on the SLS there no leaks, that i can tell, this morning i started it up ,and with it on ramps, looked under there and pushed the control leaver up and the rear went up about 3 inches,is this normal??or do i need to adjust it or need new accumulators or what?? i am lost on this one,i have read others threads on SLS --- IF ANYONE CAN HELP-- PLEASE,Thanks Dennis

The most likely reason is that you need new accumulators. These are the spherical things mounted near the rear axle.

They are not too hard to replace, and cost around $100 each.

Do a search on accumulators. Lots of info in here.

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Semibodacious Transmogrifications a Specialty

1990 300D 2.5 Turbo sedan 171K (Rudolf)
1985 300D Turbo TD Wagon 219K (Remuda)

"Time flies like and arrow, yet fruit flies like a banana"
---Marx (Groucho)

Thanks for the reply,I have read most of stuff on the air cells-- and I tend to agree with you,when i pushed the control leave up the car went up, is this normal and did this mean presser was on the system> Thanks Dennis

If the rear goes up when you pull on the lever, this means that the shocks (which are expensive), the hydraulic pump and the lines have pressure and can hold pressure. The springiness in the system is taken up in the chambers of the accumulators, which are half filled with air (which compresses) and hydraulic fluid (which doesn't). Chances are that the diaphragm between the two chambers has broken, or the nitrogen has leaked out.

Before I replaced mine, the suspension was rough and clunky in the rear. Now that I have changed them, it is smooth and even.

So you are lucky and don't need to replace the most expensive parts. You should consider replacing the fluid and filter, which aren't too expensive and are avaialble from Finish Line.

The Haynes DIY manual doesn't say a thing about the Wagon rear suspension, but it useful for other stuff. There is enough stuff on this Forum to inform you how to do the job and then some, in my opinion.Be safe, use jackstands, and good luck.

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Semibodacious Transmogrifications a Specialty

1990 300D 2.5 Turbo sedan 171K (Rudolf)
1985 300D Turbo TD Wagon 219K (Remuda)

"Time flies like and arrow, yet fruit flies like a banana"
---Marx (Groucho)

Thanks Richard,I will change the accumulators, and from what i have read so far i think i can handle the job, the old wagon is a good car in good cond.I also have a 450SL that i tenker with,but i think the 300TD is the best ride--Have a good night, Dennis P.S. it's cold here in north floirda!!!

Thanks Inted,I will take a look--Dennis P.S. my mb is a w123 300td [it's wagon]

There was a detailed how-to for replacing the accumulators on a wagon. I can't recall who posted it though. I seem to recall something about having to pull the rear seat...but then again all these post start to run together after a while.

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Mike Tangas
'73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP
Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72

'02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis

2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel

Non illegitemae carborundum.

I don't think you need to remove the seat, but you might need to move the mufler a little bit just mabey un-hang it or somthing like that,Thanks--DENNIS

The W123 chassis is eaier than the W124 and later since they are underneath, not inside.

Put the car on jackstands, wheels hanging free, or it will drop when you take the lines loose, you don't want to get squashed.

Clean off all the fittings on the hydraulic lines, two on each accumlator. You will probably have to remove the ones that go to the valve on both ends, but I'm not sure on the W123.

Remove the lines, have a drip pan handy since quite a bit of fluid will come out. Remove the nuts that hold the accumulators on, then remove accumulators and install the new ones. Leave the nuts loose, just thread them on enough to hold the accumulators up.

Re-install the hydraulic lines. This is the hard part as they are sometimes reluctant to start on the threaded nut. DO NOT FORCE THEM, you will have to wrestle the accumulators and lines around until you get all the line nuts started. Once they are finger tight, tighten the accumulator nuts down and tighten the hydraulic lines up.

Lower car, load the back end up (two large guys works fine), then start engine. Car should rise smoothly to normal height.

You will need to add suspension fluid to the tank up front. Use only MB fluid, most others will caues EXPENSIVE damage to the suspension parts.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Thanks for the info. PETER---HAVE A NICE HOLLIDAY SEASON---DENNIS