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#16
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Wow, that's frustrating. have you determined that the A/C does work? Try moving the temp wheel until it locks to full A/C and see if it cools. Also, cycle the recirc button, the sound of the air flow should change when switched to recirc from normal mode. Maybe your stuck in recirc mode without it being lit up? And I think you said earlier that there wasn't any residue on the inside from a heater core?
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dtf 1994 E320 Wagon (Died @ 308,669 miles) 1995 E300 Diesel (228,000) 1999 E300 Turbodiesel ( died @ 255,000) 2006 Toyota Tundra SR5 AC 4X4 (115,000 miles) rusted frame - sold to chop shop 2011 Audi A4 Avant (165,000 miles) Seized engine - donated to Salvation Army BMW 330 xi 6 speed manual (175,034 miles) 2014 E350 4Matic Wagon 128,000 miles 2018 Dodge Ram 21,000 miles |
#17
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I have this same issue on both the W201 and the W203. I just attribute it to crappy Engineering on MB's part. My W203 will start to fog up on any setting except the Front Defrost button. In Auto mode it is horrible at fogging the wind shield. I have to switch back and forth between auto and defrost every few minutes in the rain. On my W201 no matter what buttons I hit I can not keep the windows clean except for the Defrost button. It clears rather quickly but it is a pain is the ass to keep switching back and forth. The W203 fogs itself up when on Auto and first starting the car requiring you to sit there even when the engine is already semi warmed and wait for the windshield to defog. First it fogs then defogs when I hit the defrost button. Has done this since day one and I still can't figure out why you can not select fan speed while on defrost after a certain time limit, or just anytime. Why it needs to have the fan on high and you can not select a temperature lower than full heat is beyond me. The Germans must know something about climate control that no other manufacturer does to do it this way. Thank God no other manufacturer feels the need to not allow manual control of the Defrost portion. And in no other car have I had windshields fog this often and not been able to split Defrost/Floor to keep the fogging down. Good luck in fixing it as I have just given up and called it a piss poor design....
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~Jamie _________________ 2003 Pewter C230K SC C1, C4, C5, C7, heated seats, CD Changer, and 6 Speed. ContiExtremes on the C7's. 1986 190E 2.3 Black, Auto, Mods to come soon..... |
#18
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J. B., it now sounds like my bet would be on the A/C system not cooling enough.
If I use the 'd' in my SDL it will fog up. After I select the 'b' setting I can see the fog evaporating before my eyes. As Peter said, no cooling, no de-humidifying, and sounds like you're doing everything else correctly and there does not seem to be any other defect. Good luck, and please let us know what you find. Jim |
#19
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Quote:
I'm taking the car in for some general service tomorrow. I will likely see if my mechanic can uncover anything. If not, I'll do some more investigating this weekend. Thanks.
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J.B. Hebert -------------------------- Current Vehicles: '76 Ford Bronco '78 Volvo 262C Bertone V8 '80 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe (For Sale) '94 Ford Explorer '95 Mercedes E300D Sportline+ |
#20
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Quote:
Thanks for the suggestions.
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J.B. Hebert -------------------------- Current Vehicles: '76 Ford Bronco '78 Volvo 262C Bertone V8 '80 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe (For Sale) '94 Ford Explorer '95 Mercedes E300D Sportline+ |
#21
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If nothing turns out, don't ignore 104.992's suggestion about possible clogged cabin air filters being the cause of the problem.
I know you can take a peak at a very small area of the cabin filters, and estimate their condition without dismantling anything. I did this on my '95 E300D by lifting one of the rubber trims near the wiper arm, and looking behind it. This however was awhile back, and can't remember which trim I lifted. If you are stuck, I can try it again, and let you know which trim to peak under. Phil *
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'95 E300 Diesel, 264,000 Miles. [Sold it] |
#22
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You have excess moisture in the air, and it will condense on the windows immediately if the glass is very cold.
The source can be either water hanging in the AC box, a leaking heater core or core manifold, or in the interior of the car. You might want to pull the carpets up and check for water (and fix the leak if there is any). This could be from a sunroof or window left open in the past, too. A leaking heater core will also leave glycol on the windshield, usually. Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#23
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My 86 W124 has no air due to broken compressor and in Seattle (chronic rain at 40-55 F) I have absolutely no problem defrosting. In fact I rarely use defrost in either car.
Keep glass clean -- I use Stoner Invisible Glass (no amonia). I suspect your recircualtion flap is stuck closed somehow (your air is always recirc even if button is not depressed) it is nearly impossible to defrost on recirc.
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David 1986 300E Anthracite + ECodes + MB Mileage Award |
#24
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It's been a crazy few weeks with the holidays and all. I plan on revisitting this issue soon. I will check the cabin filters, the drains, and make sure the recirc flap isn't clogged.
I'll keep everyone posted. Thanks again.
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J.B. Hebert -------------------------- Current Vehicles: '76 Ford Bronco '78 Volvo 262C Bertone V8 '80 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe (For Sale) '94 Ford Explorer '95 Mercedes E300D Sportline+ |
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