Long story short, the engine completely shut down one night while I was driving on the freeway. Parts replaced so far include: OVP relay, EZL module, fuel pump relay, plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Problem: the engine starts fine in the morning, idles and runs like a dream for about 15 minutes, then it shut down. Usually will have to wait a few hours before I could restart the engine. A MB tech told me to bridge #7 & 8 pin at the fuel pump relay to be sure the pump operates; it does and he told me to replace the relay. Well, no help. I did noticed after the engine shuts down, I do not get any spark from the coil. What condition would the computer not to send power to the coil? Could it be the O2 sensor? I replaced it with an aftermarket unit ($55) along with a new converter as well to get it to pass the california smog last month. Can someone help me out, there isn't much money left for me to shotgun the problem. The car has 173K miles, is it worth the fix? The engine top half was rebuilt 80K miles ago, basically the entire AC system is new (except the AC Pump & Evaporator). I was getting 23 to 24 MPG before it acted up. Should I donate it?

It sounds like something electronic is overheating and causing the ignition system to shut down. When it dies and you try restarting it do you get any turnover at all or is it completely dead? If it is completely dead then I would say for sure you have an overheating electronic part somwhere in the ignition or ECU.

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89 190E
2.6L
Arctic white
Grey leather
Sunroof
Pirelli P400 rubber
Smoked corners

Thanks for replying, 190eDude.
The engine turns over strong but no spark. Once, when I bridged the pins to make the fuel pump hot, it operated. I can smell that fuel is being delivered to the engine during the cranking cycles; but no spark. I checked the coil after the engine died, the primary indicated about 2.5 ohms while the secondary gave me about 90K+ ohms. To rule the coil out, I put in another working coil to no avail. The new fuel pump relay I got has ten pins while my old one has 9 pins; however the part# 003-545-2405 shows its for '89 2.6, would the number of pins make a difference?
I did retrieve the code from the plug soon as the problem began and it gave me five flashes. It indicated O2 sensor, but it was replaced a few months ago along with a new aftermarket converter to pass the california emission. The smog readings were well within specs except HC at 15 mph test barely passed with a 114ppm. I wouldn't think this will foul up the O2 sensor, could it? Any suggestion is greatly appreciated.

Since it is turning over I would start at the coil and work my way back testing at each junction while turning it over to see where to juice stops. (make sure you let it run until it cuts off first)

As for the difference between the 9 and 10 pin. I have no idea bud. I know they both show up on Fastlane as parts for the 89 so I am assuming that either one will work.

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89 190E
2.6L
Arctic white
Grey leather
Sunroof
Pirelli P400 rubber
Smoked corners

I'll throw my 2 cents in here with a similar story. Involved an 89 Volvo 240. Wife would drive to work and the machine would spontaneously stop with no spark. Turned out to be the crank position sensor. Very spurious.

Just my experiences.

Ron

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1995 E320 -171k-km
1995 S420 -333k-km

Thanks for the input. Could you tell me how do I check the crank position sensor? I have not driven the car lately, except to let it idle till the engine shuts down after I threw several parts at it without avail. I just don't know why the ignition system shuts down after idling for 15 minutes. Could it be the computer? I saw two of them behind the battery, next to the OVP relay. Which one may be the culprit, if it is at all. Frustrated.

Is your machine not OBDI complient. The Volvo was an 89 version and was (first year). In which case the OBD pinged it dead on. In my case it screwed into the bell housing of the transmission. Operation and heat soak caused it to fail but would reinitialize if left to cool for an hour or so. Wasn't expensive so just replaced it.

Best of luck!

Ron

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1995 E320 -171k-km
1995 S420 -333k-km

You need to check out the ignition module and coil. Secondary resistance seems too high to me, although I don't have the specs in front of me.

If the EZL box is going out due to heat, it won't spark, but it could just as easily be the crank posistion sensor.

The factory diagnostics tool will tell you, if you can find one to plug in.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Today, I removed the Crank position sensor at the flywheel, got a reading of apprx. 900 ohms from the plug end at the EZL, is it still ok? The shielding on the cable looks intact, how about the sensor in the front of the engine that runs to the diagnostic(round)plug mounted on the LF fender, what does that do and what checks can I do to verify its operation?
In regard to EZL, I replaced it with one I bought from Silverstar Mercedes salvage; can I perform any check on it? Could the ECU be malfunctioning? Where can I obtain info in regard to checking the related components? Any help from any professional shall be appreciated.

According to MB Maint CD I believe it has to be between 600 Ohms and 1200 Ohms. SO it sounds like it is good. Of course see what it reads when the engine has died!

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~Jamie
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2003 Pewter C230K SC C1, C4, C5, C7, heated seats, CD Changer, and 6 Speed. ContiExtremes on the C7's.

1986 190E 2.3 Black, Auto, Mods to come soon.....

I read somewhere that the crank sensor puts out apprx. 0.4 to 1.0 volts during cranking, I measured it the same way as I did to get the ohms reading, after the engine died, the sensor didn't register a reading during normal cranking. I double checked the coil and verified power to the primary studs after engine shut down.
My question is: if the crank position sensor is bad, why would the engine start(either in the morning or after at least a four hour cool down) and continue to run for 10- 15 minutes?
I would certainly appreciate anyone's input. Happy New Year to all.

Most likely when the crank sensor gets hot enoguh it fails. That is what I would guess.

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~Jamie
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2003 Pewter C230K SC C1, C4, C5, C7, heated seats, CD Changer, and 6 Speed. ContiExtremes on the C7's.

1986 190E 2.3 Black, Auto, Mods to come soon.....

Having spent enormous of hours surfing the net/tech forum to aid in troubleshooting my engine problem, I like to extend a big thank you for every involved contributor. Received my new Crank Position Sensor today, installed it and held my breath while I started the engine, checked my watch to see if it runs beyond 15 minutes....YES...I have put my '89 190E 2.6 back into service. On the down side, I now have a spare OVP relay, fuel pump relay, ignition coil, EZL module; fortunately they all fit inside the glove box along with a few of my metric wrenches in case...? HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL!