Tommorow I'm going to take the timing chain cover off of my 16v. The front main seal is a little over 2 years old and doesn't leak.

Should I replace the main seal before I put the timing chain cover back on?

Do I need the special spacer tools recomended by MB? Is there a work around?

As always, thanks!

dlr

Why are you removing the front cover? Is it leaking?

Tough call on the seal. I can't recall how much it is ($8 or $12), but it is probably cheap insurance to replace it.

Tinker

Tinker,

Thanks for the advice for the seal-i'll go ahead and order one today. Do I need the special tools from MB?

I was taking the exhaust cam off to put the new shims in. I lost two washers from the front bearing cap, and only found one! I can only assume the other fell down into the timing-chain box. The oil pan is off (but not out) enough to check inside-its not down that far. All the work is a huge pita (you know this, i've been following your thread when you re-re'd the tensioner/rails), but I just can't take a chance on destroying the head.


dan

ps. Any advice for the power steering/AC bracket? Do you have to fully remove the power steering pump, or can you leave the fluid/hoses and push it off to the side enough to access the bracket bolts?

Augh!!!!!

What a nightmare. I didn't need any special Benz tools. I did need my compressor to remove the bolt that secures the pulley to the crankshaft. And my gear puller to get the pulley off.

Unfortunately the AC bracket blocks the front cover, so it will have to come off. It is a TOTAL mother. The real challenge is getting to the bolts hidden by the oil lines. If I recall, I had to use a piece of an allen key and wrench to get underneath the intake manifold to remove the clamps holding the oil lines to the block that obstructed access to the rear bolts. And the manifold blocks access to the allen bolts! A COMPLETELY SCREWED DESIGN!!! I think that alone took me a few hours.

I guess you learned a lesson, next time stuff several rags down those holes so the pieces don't get away from you.

While your in there you can get a good look at your rails and sprockets and see if they need replacing. I used the factory sealer on the front cover. It worked pretty well, but I see it starting to seep a tiny bit. Use a good quality sealer.

Drop a line if you need some more sympathy or advise.

Tinker

I could use a little advice on removing the tensioner. I have the updated one-with a allen bolt inside of a hex head. Which do I loosen to remove the cam-sprockets? Will I need to replace any rings or gaskets?

Also, do you remember exactly what tool you used to get the ac/ps bracket bolt off? I have lines loosened already.


Dan

Dan,

The nut will unscrew the whole tensioner. The allen screw is for resetting the tensoner's piston. I believe there is a crush washer that seals the tensioner to the block. You don't need to loosen or remove the tensioner to remove the cam sprockets. Just remove the four bolts holding each sprocket to the cam and then remove the cams. Be caureful with the sprocket bolts as they could also be dropped down the front of the motor. Shove a few rags down there so nothing gets by.

There are just a bunch of bolts that hold the power steering bracket to the block. Both on front and side of the block. I think I just used stubby sockets with swivels to get at some of them. Where are you having problems?

Tinker

Tinker,

I have the ac/ps bracket pushed off to the side-no problem there.

There are 4 allen-head bolts that go through the head into the timing chain cover. I can remove two of them easily, but the other two are blocked by the sprockets. Right now I have both cams out (after marking them against the sprockets) and the intake sprocket partially removed. I don't want to scratch the bearing surfaces by forcing it out any further-I am fighting against the tension of the chain. I will remove the tensioner to release the tension on the chain, remove the two sprockets and remove the four bolts between the head and the case. After that I'll gently pry the cover off. Sound like a plan?

I've found two 16v-tc threads you've weighed in on beside this one. I'm going to write up a "guide" to this job when i'm done-you want to add your experiences before I post it?


thanks!

dan

Sounds good to me.

I am trying to remember what I did.....it was a while ago.

I think I used a small bit of an allen wrench cut down to an inch or less and then used a 1/4 inch drive socket wrench and swivel with the appropriate size socket.

Any digital photos of the problem?


Tinker

Tinker,

Ok, the timing chain cover is almost off, the oil pick-up is disconnected. The cover is sitting about 3/4 of an inch from the crank case, can rotate freely 2-3 degrees around the crank and can tilt front to back about the same amount. But it won't come off! It really feels like something around the crank is somehow preventing it from being fully removed.

Is there a lip or anything? I think it is already past the radial seal. I don't want to force anything-but i'll give it another try before I hit the sack tonight.

thanks,
dan

I feel for ya man.

I think you should replace the oil pump rotors sense you have to take it all the way off.

If I remember correctly the chain gides will give you trouble getting the cover out. You may have to place a long screw driver into cover from the top and hold the tentioner rail away from the chain. Hope that helps but I'm glad I can't remember all of this procedure.

As it turns out, the thing holding the tcc on was the seal ring that fits around the crank. I had to make a special puller, check out this thread for further info=>http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/113741-190e-16v-timing-chain-cover-guide.html#post804855

In retrospect, I would replace the seal (but not the ring), but would leave the oil "pump" alone. Its only 2 moving parts-I don't see how it could fail, and mine showed no wear. Maybe the best design i've seen on this whole car so far.

cheers,
dan