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Old 03-01-2005, 08:55 PM
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Fuel Delivery problems.

The model is a 1988 260E.
The problem is that first the car would run out of fuel @ a little less than a quarter of a tank then progressed to a littlte less than half a tank. Now, I have come to the conclusion that it does not run out of fuel, something is going on that makes my vehichle stall. It stalls and at times has taken hours to start back up, this last time it had nearly a full tank and stalled out on the highway at a speed of about 75mph. I dont want to put my hands into it unless I have some direction, I am mechanically inclined but have never worked on a Mercedes (My first MB). I was going to buy the fuel pump then found out on the Net, it costs $220 and it might have two of them.

I guess I need advice on this starting at: Is it common for the pump/s to go bad. To do the MB tech experts think it is something else besides the pump, and is/are the pumps even located in the gas tank?
Thanks Alot all advice will be appreciated

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Old 03-01-2005, 11:23 PM
Larry Delor's Avatar
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I'm pretty sure the pump(s) are on the outside, towards the right side of the tank. You should be able to hear them hiss when operating.
You're not having a vacuum going on inside of your tank, are you?
Are your filters clean?
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Old 03-02-2005, 12:20 AM
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You have classical symptoms of a bad fuel relay. On the 300E it is located in the compartment behind the battery and is the size of a pack of cigarettes.

You can remove the relay and then pry up the cover (from near the bottom) then examine the green circuit board and you will find circular cracks in the solder where the pins from the boards electronic componets pass through the board and where they are soldered to the boards circuits. Use a magnifying glass.

The cracks will be on the pins of the heavier components of the board... ie the pins of the two little electro magnets and points. The hairline cracks will circle the pins. (on back side of board)

The failure occurs when engine heat reaches the relay and the componets of the board expand and contract thus causing loss of electric current... and the car stalls.

You can do the repair yourself with about a penny's worth of solder. Just drop a fresh spot of solder on the pin (s) that have cracks. But be cautious so that you do not melt the boards circuits.

Use thing wire flux core solder and an electric solder iron.

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Last edited by ejsharp; 03-02-2005 at 12:25 AM.
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