I did it! Keyless entry for your 124 made easy (and less than $100)! - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

MERCEDES300CE · #16 08-23-2002, 08:47 AM

Ok, stupid question but here goes:

I have a "swtch blade" type key to fit my CE, from an S classe.

A bud of mine was playing around with the remote in his stereo shop and he said it emmits an RF signal as well as the IR. He thinks, if one got a "code catcher" a keyless entry could be hooked up to work off of this remote.

Is he correct? Or is this not possible? Not sure what this "Code Catcher" is or how one would obtain one. He said it is used to make aftermarket alams work with the factory remotes.

Sounded feesable, but too good to be true to me. Interested in any thoughts any one has to offer.

Thanks in advance!

neumann · #17 08-25-2002, 08:29 PM

Ok so now I am royally pissed off!!!! I just spent the better part of 4 hours trying to make this remote keyless entry kit work. I am having problems with the factory alarm kicking on. Its sitting in my driveway with the battery disconnected and the back seat cushion in the trunk.

What could I be doing wrong? Could my connections at the convenience center plug not be properly connected? My neighbors must be real sore over the number of times my damn horn was blaring. I do not like alram systems in the first place. If I could disconnect the alram part of the system I would

I followed the http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W124Keyless

Help ....please

I'm almost tempted to take it to an install shop at this point

jsmith · #18 08-25-2002, 08:35 PM

if you don't want to use the convenience features then just wire the lock / unlock functions per this thread. BTW, the lock function will also arm the factory system. the convenience functios have to do with light flashing etc...

neumann · #19 08-25-2002, 08:45 PM

I am going to deinstall the systems periphery functions (disconnect the connections I made) and go by Bstreeps install.

Why does BStreep mention to cut the blue wire and the webpage mentions to cut the green wire?

Should I have not cut either of the green wires and used the blue instead?

daddiojiggy · #20 08-25-2002, 09:14 PM

if i go out,buy a 300e,put in the system i'd be willin' to trade it for your e500

neumann · #21 08-25-2002, 09:15 PM

my 514dslv does not have a black wire coming off of it.....problem?

J.HIDALGO · #22 08-25-2002, 09:40 PM

Once you have everything figured out, I may stop by your house to see the installation

and get some tips for installation in my car (may be). I also live in Jax.

Just kidding now!:p but, I do live in JAX.

jsmith · #23 08-25-2002, 09:42 PM

sorry, i didn't go the crutchfield route. i did the trunk install which is a lot simpler (but no convenience functions). these diagrams helped me understand what the heck this was all about.
explanation
all the DSLV does is to simplify the double relay connection with the funky MB lock / unlock connection. basically you need to supply power to the unit, then you have to figure out which wire is the actuator (green in diagram)...

neumann · #24 08-25-2002, 10:44 PM

Going back through some of the instructions from the DLSV it states that ...

"typically, total of three circuits are found at the supply pump: driver door(usually blue), passenger door (usually green) and trunk usually yellow. "

As I stated earlier I had cut into one of the green wires at the round connector and Bstreep cut into one of the blue wires. Now I think I see why he chose blue.

But still I can not find a black wire coming off of the DSLV as he stated. I guess the product may have changed in the 2 years or so since he did this mod.

jsmith · #25 08-26-2002, 06:33 AM

that black wire on the dslv provides -12v (to ground). you need this in order to have an unlock function. it looks like it could be supplied from the control unit though from the pictures on the mercedesshop procedure...

neumann · #26 08-27-2002, 09:58 AM

I give up. What a case of total frustration. I pulled out what I installed and returned the system to stock. Ahhhh the sweet sound of silence

Finally that damn alarm horn was not sounding off. The differences in instructions, subtle differences in remote entry components and possibly differences in wiring harnesses in different model years led to my demise. Chalk one up for a learning experience.

I should have gone with a local installer who offered to do the system for $160 total. Buy hindsight is always 20/20

The cructhfield items were around a $100 and the $60 extra would have been well spent by paying a pro.

I am not saying that the instructions or advice posted was misleading or bad...in contrary I really do appreciate the info that was documented and posted. Thank you to all. To some extent I enjoyed attempting to install the system but it just seemed to be something beyond me. I have never been comfortable with electrical based work and I knew this going into the project. Give me something mechanical and I am all over it

I am returning the items to Crutchfield this afternoon

patrik_the_swede · #27 08-27-2002, 10:52 AM

Do not use 'scotch locks' as described in the 'Keyless Entry Install' manual or you will end up with problem. It is much better to cut the wire and solder the new wire on it. Then use plastic shield which shrinks when you apply heat. This is special important if you ever consider installing an alarm (alarm which goes on/off in the middle of the night is NOT popular

).

jsmith · #28 08-27-2002, 01:01 PM

that system probably won't work. the MB application is unique because the actuator is only one wire to which you send either +12v or -12v. look at that link i previously posted - it explains most of the different standard relay hookups and the MB setup. the Crutchfield kit provides you with that DLSV add-on that allows you to do that hookup. i went the Jcwhitney route (cost $40 shipped), where you have to perform some surgery on the unit's pcboard to come up with the correct relay connections. after the mods to the unit in that system, hookup is very straightforward.

i think anyone attempting this should do it in two steps. do the lock / unlock first then the convenience features (if you want them). a preliminary step that i found really helpful was to hook everything up with a 12v lantern battery and verifying that everything was working as it should (supplying +12v and -12v using the one wire).

mushedroom · #29 08-27-2002, 02:48 PM

i just had the keyless entry thingy put on with my Viper car alarm...200.00 total, installed!!!! w/ignition kill; harmonious glass breakage mic; pulse module for vacuum locks; custom siren w/battery continue if power cable cut....woo hoo!!!

jsmith · #30 08-27-2002, 03:22 PM

tkamiya,

that sounds about right. i would guess the other wire (yellow) is for the trunk, because that was the color wire that i used when i hooked up mine - was that what you were asking about?