yes, way too many choices and I did a trial and error with my 2.3-16v and it got expensive but I finally found the perfect bulbs.
I think your bulbs are like a 38 or 42 mm bulb.
Go to one of these web pages... The second one is the better bulb, 6 leds and very bright, but web site is harder to navigate.


http://www.ledlight.com/detail.aspx?ID=279

$9.00 plus s/h for 4 LEDs

or go here and get these

www.superbrightleds.com


Select Bulb Length
WHPx42mm 4210-WHPx

Select Number of LEDs
6 LEDs (+ $7.00)

High Power LED Festoon bulb
Festoon bulbs with 3 or 6 High Power Cool White LEDs, 12 VDC
42mm lengths
$ 7.95 + 7.00 = $14.95 plus s/h for 6 leds

__________________
Christopher Henkel
1990 190E 2.6 - Arctic white SOLD
1986 190E-16v - Blauswartze
1993 300CE - SOLD
2003 W208 CLK 320 Cabriolet - Magma Red

Those are very expensive. Purchased items from superbrightleds before and had a bad experience with non-working new bulbs but their exchange policy sucks..

I usually buy all my LEDs from this guy in Hong Kong: http://stores.ebay.com/warden-jp2002
JP usually has everything in-stock, new LEDs shows on his site 3-6 months before on US sites, shipment takes 7-10 days normally, replacement policy is good, and he is much cheaper for the LEDs & shipping..

JP also sells a set of LEDs for all the exterior lights for our cars. I think you must email him for the pricing information.

Check him out.. You wont be disappointed..

I sent you a PM... Please respond..

Okay... Back on topic..

The thread outlines the main connections for the unit but not the connections for other devices used.
Where are at OEM connection wires for the other connections??

1. Horn connection - Where is the positive wire connection location for the Horn?

2. Interior Lighting connection - Where is the interior light connection location?
** Note: My interior lights comes on and stays on for 10-15 sec using the key after unlock. Is this a necessary connection?

3. Headlamps - Which wire at the headlamp switch is the output wire?

4. Parking lights - Thinking of using parking lights instead of headlamps.
Which wire is used for the parking light connection?

Scotty, sorry for late reply, flu bug.
I used the Stealmycar unit on ebay that was advertised specifically for MB.
At the time they had one specifically for the 126 for $50, and a generic MB
one for $45. I bought the generic and it was fine.
It only has two buttons on the remotes; no panic button.
It unlocks and locks, and I don't "think" it turns on the interior lights, I haven't noticed.
It has 4 relays inside, so no extra relays required to lock/unlock or flash park lights. It had a specific wire to flash the park lights, and it hooked right up to the left taillight. No beeper, but I plan to wire one into the light flasher, so it beeps when the lights flash. There was another pink wire for trunk release, etc; but I cannot see any voltage on it when the unit fires.
see my indstall comments abover, piece of cake, working great; but I do need a beeper or horn relay, can't really see the parking lights flash on a bright day.

DG

Scotty, I can only answer question #4 above; park lights.
I tied directly into the left taillight/parking light connector. pin #6, with the gray/black wire. I just popped the cover off the 8-pin connector and soldered the wire directly to the pin. This flashes all four parking lights when I trigger the remote. (old '91 126 model).

Yeah, I would like to know the location of the horn relay on the 126, I plan to tie into that also for the beep.

DG

Thats cool DG.. Flu bug sucks. Hope you feel better soon..

Purchased the Omega unit like Chris.. And bought diodes & relays today.. And preparing to install on Saturday.. My questions were about installing convenience features, as the lock/unlock remote installation instructions are documented well in this thread...

Your response lets me know that parking light connection is possible at the tail lamp (doing a trunk install). I do have wiring diagrams but Im not sure which wires to tap into: Positive OR Negative wire, relay wire or trigger wire. I want figure the wiring out before I start. Hopefully, I can finish this on Sat..

Heres some horn connection info: http://www.the12volt.com/carsecurity/page3.asp#hn
And heres the wiring diagrams site for a 91 300SE (site appears to be up only during the day):
http://www.autolib.diakom.ru/CAR/Mercedes-Benz/1991/300SE/SYSTEM%20WIRING%20DIAGRAMS/

Ive been reading up on installing diodes. Now, Im more confused.. We need a diode writeup for our cars..
The diode will stop leakage and I understand how. But you install it depending on the flow of current + & -...
Well for our door locks, the single line trigger is both positive & negative depending on the lock position.. Thus, my confusion..

Hmmm, interesting about the door wire diode. Yeah, current needs to run both ways to/from the motor on the green wire; so maybe cannot diode it - I didn't. Maybe Chris can add some inputs.
But since this door-lock wire is pretty isolated to just the door switch and the vacuum motor, probably no issues with other systems; and if the keyless unit blew it would either put 12V, ground, or nothing on the green wire, all of which it sees in normal operation. so probably no harm done to the car's system. I did diode the light wiring, just put it inline in the wire between the keyless unit and the light wire connector pin #6. allow 12V current flow FROM the keyless unit, but not back to it.

Can't help you on the Omega hookup for the lights. My unit had an internal relay that supplied a 12V flash to the violet wire, and hooked right up to the park light wire. Gnd was obtained thru the Keyless unit ground wire at the vacuum motor. With the omega, I assume you have a wire that provides a 12V flash, but it may need a relay to supply enough current to flash all 4 park lights. If so, just a std relay hookup should work - hook the Omega signal to the trigger, tie in a hot 12v and gnd, and hook the 12v output to the park light wire.

DG

I only used diodes on the horn ( for confimation beeps), the interior light on when unlock, and the parking light flash. No diode on the door lock, I believe it is internal to the unit.

I used the standard relay hook up that s guru mentioned to use the horn and lights. Use the units wires as the trigger for the relay and use the constant power and the terminal block in the drivers side foot well for the 12v supply. There should be a terminal block in the far back corner of the driver's foot well outboard side, that has connections avail for both ingition on 12v and constant 12, a great place to pull power from. Mine are even marked as yellow and red connections ( 190E)

Chris

__________________
Christopher Henkel
1990 190E 2.6 - Arctic white SOLD
1986 190E-16v - Blauswartze
1993 300CE - SOLD
2003 W208 CLK 320 Cabriolet - Magma Red

Thanks Guru & Chris.. I have mapped all known connections and have located
the wires in the car. Only decision remaining is the actual install location:
Under the Dash OR In the Trunk. Trunk has parking light and vacuum unit;
but the dash has all of the other connections. I will probably do a dash/Under seat
install and connect the parking light flash to the emergency flashers using a relay.

Im all set-to-go here now!! Hopefully, my Omega unit was delivered today..
Will check my C280 for a footwell terminal block tonight. Hopefully, I also have a
ignition 12v and a constant 12v like in your car..

Reading the User Omega Manual, I found all of the default settings. It defaults to
"Doors Lock With Ignition ON". How? Does this unit have a connection wire for the Ignition too?

BTW, did you guys see my links above for the LED and wiring diagrams.

The unit is just recognizing the power on with ignition and locking your doors for you, it drove me crazy, I turned it off.

__________________
Christopher Henkel
1990 190E 2.6 - Arctic white SOLD
1986 190E-16v - Blauswartze
1993 300CE - SOLD
2003 W208 CLK 320 Cabriolet - Magma Red

Kewl,
I will turn off mine too. I would like for it to lock automatically only when put in Drive...

My ebay unit still hasnt arrived.. Thus, all of this preparation and no freaking unit... Im sooo pissed....

Yes, if it was like the wife's car and would lock and unlock as you went in and out of drive it would be worth it, but since there is not a clear way to set it up to do that I dont really want it locking every time I start turn the key to the "on" position
Not sure if there is anything we could use as a trigger to make that happen.
Maybe something with the starter interupt when it is in drive or reverse might work...
Sorry your unit didnt show yet.
Everything happens for a reason...we just dont always know what that reason is.

__________________
Christopher Henkel
1990 190E 2.6 - Arctic white SOLD
1986 190E-16v - Blauswartze
1993 300CE - SOLD
2003 W208 CLK 320 Cabriolet - Magma Red

Im actually thinking of a connection from the Neutral Safety Switch, where a Lock trigger signal is sent for the Drive position. The Neutral Safety Switch should be able to send a signal for the Drive position and connect this to the Omega ignition signal wire. Reverse & Drive would send a double signal when putting in gear which would defeat the purpose here (reverse-neutral-drive gearshift positions = lock-no action-unlock).

Im also thinking of my wife for this setup. It would be a single trigger to lock when the gearshift is in drive position (unless its already locked). Pulling the Drivers handle will automatically Unlock all doors. For wife safety, only unlock when a purpose event happens (already provided by OEM system).

Omega default settings would be:
Doors Lock With Ignition "On" : Default ON
Ignition "Off" Unlock 1 & 2: Default OFF
Connect the Omega Ignition wire to a signal wire from the Neutral Safety Switch

Now, does the Neutral Safety Switch actually send useful electronic signals??

The Neutral Safety Switch wont work!!

Tested it for a signal and it only controls starter activity signals much like the ignition switch.. Just an earlier and much shorter signal...
I will just not use the Automated Lock/Unlock features... Unless someone here has other ideas!!

Finally, Installed my Omega REC-11+ unit and a siren.

BTW, the 95 C280 OEM locking system is actually a 3-wire system. Both front doors use the same 3 wires and the signal is not on a single wire.
There is a Lock, Unlock and Ground wire that controls the locks. This actually makes the install easier.

The overall install was relatively easy. The hardest and time consuming part was finding the C280 connection wires. Installed the unit under the dash.

But here's the 95 C280 connections found on my car (as yours may be different):

----Kit Wire--------------------C280 Location-------------
1. 12 VOLT Constant.............Red Wire – Power Block (under gas pedal)
2. Chassis Ground.................Brown Ground – Left Floor Wire Panel
3. Ignition...........................Violet/Blue - Steering column (used diode)
4. Trunk Release .................NOT USED (requires a trunk release popper)
5. Starter Interrupt .............NOT USED (OEM Alarm Starter Kill relay installed)
6. Headlights.......................Gray/Red (+), Headlamp switch (used relay & diode)
7. Parking Lights..................Gray (+) & Gray/White (+), Headlamp switch (used 2 diodes)
8. Dome Light Output............Front Door Pin Switch - Brown/Gray (-), Left Floor Wire Panel (used diode)
....................................... Rear Door Pin Switch - Brown/Gray/Yellow (-), Left Floor Wire Panel (used diode)
9. Power Lock Pulse..............Black (-), Left Floor Wire Panel
10. Power Unlock Pulse #1.....Blue wire(-), Left Floor Wire Panel
11. Siren............................Cut the Piezo wire (+) to Siren (+) wire (using relay)
12. Signal Antenna Wire........Installed under the Weatherstrip of the Front Drivers Pillar, held in-place with RTV

Hopefully, this will help someone else doing this!
Everything works: Headlamp/Parking Lights flash, Lock/Unlock, Panic, Dome lights & Siren churp.
Now that Ive found the Door Pin Switch wires, Im thinking of installing another set of relays/diodes to "Keep the Radio ON until Door Opens" mod.

KEYLESS ENTRY IS GREAT ! ! !