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#1
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W210 parking light failure / New front lamp wire Harness
Hi Folks,
I had a failure of my front passenger side-parking bulb. Replaced bulb and still no light. Then remove the front lamp assembly wire harness since there was a short circuit on that bulb. Cut off and replace what appears then as a ‘bad portion’/shorted section of the wire. Put it back, light comes on. but it is brighter than the other side. On closer examination, I discovered that there is a diode or resistor on the cut off wire and not just a rusted wire. This lead to ask these questions: 1.) Does anybody know what this thing is?. 2.) Having one side of the parking bulb brighter than the other cause any harm? 3.) Can I buy a new wire harness or I have to buy the complete front lamp housing assembly? I do appreciate any help on this matter |
#2
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CAn you put the diode back in the new harness? If so I would go ahead and do it rather than buy a new one. If it was in there from the original harness my guess is it is in there for a reason, such as the lamp failure system or something. A Diode only allows current to flow one direction, so that would tell me that it is there to keep the bulb filament from causing a detected short in the system. Good luck!
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Brian W. Heitman www.MBCA.org/northtexas Join MBCA!!! |
#3
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You removed it from the wiring inside the headlight housing, correct?
I can find no reference to anything like what you described in the schematics I have.
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/Per MB E300TDT -98 |
#4
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What is it: doide or resistor?
Yes, I removed the whole wire harness from the lamp assembly. Hooked the meter to it and there is no voltage to the bulb. so the diode/resistor is dead. I do not know if it is a diode or resistor. For me to put it back on the wire, I need to know what it is and the rating or part number.
I know it is performing some function otherwise it would not be there. I sure hate to buy a new wire harnes, if it is available separately, when I can simply replace a $0.05 diode/resistor on the wire. |
#5
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Have you done a search yet? This was recently discussed at length by Gilly (as I recall).
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Steve '93 400E |
#6
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400E,
I did search on parking + bulb +light. Tons of stuff but no right pointers on the subject. Can you traceback the correct thread. Thanks |
#7
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Steve '93 400E |
#8
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400E,
That linkwas so helpful. Seems like the same parking light bulb problem. I will call the dealer tomorrow to see if they have a solution for me. Thanks for the help. |
#9
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If you just hardwired where the diode burned out (seen this once before BTW) you could buy the kit I mentioned in the other thread and just plug it into the side that is now straight-wired.
Gilly
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Click here to see the items I have up for auction at EBay Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
#10
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Gilly,
Yes, I straight wired the burnt-out diode and I was hoping to order the 210-540-55-33 kit to replace it. But alas the dealer wants $129 for the kit. Do you know what this kit contains? The parts guy does not have the diagram/picture, just price. I am kinda shy to pay $129 for a straight wire with a diode in the middle or is this my rude welcome to MB repair world. Well, she's (E320) been a good gal this far!! Any hints? |
#11
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Contains 2 pigtails, 2 bulb sockets for the small halogens, the 2 small halogen bulbs, and for the non-Xenon cars it includes a pair of headlamp bulbs (low beam). You could order a Xenon kit, it doesn't include the low beam bulbs, should be less, or try to determine a part number for the pigtail only, or try to determine what the resistor value is and solder one back in.
Gilly
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Click here to see the items I have up for auction at EBay Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
#12
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This Works for Me... Every Time
About once every 5 months or so, one or the other of my parking light bulbs goes out and I get that same problem on my '97 E300D. I replaced the bulb the first time and about 5 months later, it went out again (passenger side). I bought another bulb, and in frustration knocked sharply on the lens with the lights on... the bulb came on and didn't fail for at least another 5 months.
Looks like I may have a problem with that socket because when I tested the bulb I had previously replaced, it showed the same resistance as a new bulb. But one or two sharp knocks on the lens brings it back to life every time. I guess the movement of changing that bulb the first time "simulated" the knock
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Alan |
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