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Old 04-12-2005, 06:24 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 11
M130 cylinder repair

My 6cyl. engine (1972 250C) has a slight erosion at top of cyl liner between #1 and #2 cylinder which allows leak between cylinders. I have driven the car in a tractor putt-putt mode for several thousand miles since head rebuild with mostly only an issue at idle. My question is about the cylinder liners, whether they ar cast iron or steel, with the expectation that I might deposit via MIG or TIG welding, sufficient metal to allow a tight seal against head gasket. The welding would be placed bit by bit to prevent heat warp/build up and the finish would be by hand; all with engine in car. Except for telling me its all a wrong idea, any input is appreciated!

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Old 04-13-2005, 03:18 AM
Robert Ryan
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 222
I like the approach. I have a TIG myself and used it to weld a broken head bolt to a scrap wrench on my 300e when extractors and vice grips had failed. Cast iron and TIG sounds a little tricky to me. I just can't imagine any way to do it without having distortion.

This might make zero sense at all, but what about making the deposit via brazing? You can easily deposit 3/16 with a flux coated bronze rod and oxy/acetylene. I think the big benefit there is that the temps are much lower than a steel puddle and there would be way less distortion (if any at all). I think the PSI rating of brazing is a strong as mild steel(80,000 PSI?). Even better would be the blue coated brazing rod. That melts at a lower temp than straight bronze and forms a thicker puddle and has a higher PSI rating (180,000? psi). A little tricky at first to figure out how it behaves when molten so maybe practice on some scrap.

Robert
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Old 04-13-2005, 08:58 AM
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Exclamation

A good automotive machine shop can install new "sleeves" in the cylinders AFTER welding the area of the block that is damaged. Back in 1969 I had that done on MY MGB & several times since that on MB engines W/O any problems! Good luck!
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  #4  
Old 04-13-2005, 11:43 AM
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From jahawk's post I get the impression damage is mostly on the deck surface. It's a judgement call, but if the damage is small, welding or brazing may be a less invasive procedure over sleeving, assuming the metal can be properly blended to the remaining surface.

I'm not familiar with brazing cast iron, but cast iron blocks are typically weld-repaired with nickel filler material.

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