I'm about to embark on my first C280 brake job. This is by no means my first brake job ever, just my first on this car. I have new pads, rotors (they're shot) and sensors.

I got the car jacked up and the wheel off. The bolt that I believe I should be taking off to remove the caliper just won't budge...and I mean 'will not' budge. I'm wondering if anyone has a picture that shows which bolts I should be removing. My experience is that if a bolt is that hard to get off, it might not be the right one.

What I believe I should be doing is this:
1. Jack up car, remove wheel
2. Remove pads after tapping out pins
3. Remove caliper and hang it out of the way
4. Remove the 5mm retaining screw on the rotor and remove the rotor (with whatever attendent hammer banging required).
5. Clean hub
6. Install new rotor
7. Replace caliper
8. Install new pads (with new wear sensors and paste on the back)
9. put wheel back on
10. lower car
11. Drink heavily

Am I missing anything? Should I be doing something in a different order?
I'm stuck on step 3, here and it's really getting to me. I've done something like 25 brake jobs in my life and I've never had this trouble (I've done both disc and drums!).

The tech and the local dealer suggested WD40, or a torch to get the bolt to move. I'm not fond of the torch idea (burning rubber comes to mind). Any wisdom on this? And after I get the bolts off, I'm sure I'll have more questions...I feel like such an idiot, but, I'm stuck (as is the bolt). So, back to the start of my lengthy post...anywhere I can find a picture of the caliper so I know I'm on the right bolt?

Kind regards

Bill
bigpaws@hotmail.com

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When I did mine, they were damn tight. Big cheater bar.
Make sure you're turning it the correct way?

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Thank You!
Fred
2009 ML350
2004 SL600
2004 SL500
1996 SL600
2002 SLK32
2005 CLK320 cabrio
2003 ML350
1997 C280 Sport

I feel a little better hearing that (although I'm sorry it was such a bit*h). I'll go back tonight with a little more force - and unless the threads are backwards like they were on some old Chryslers, I'm going the right way (i.e., left to loosen).

BTW, when you did yours, do your pads just come out when you unbolted the calipers, or, are there pins in there that need to be tapped out and replaced as I've seen in other posts? Just trying to minimize mistakes that will cost me money later

Bill
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The bolts have threadlocker on them and you should redo it when reassembling. The bolts also have short heads so try not to round them when removing. A six-point box end or a six-point socket is the best type of wrench to use. If access is hard, have an assistant hold the wrench in place while you whack the end of the wrench with a 5-lb small sledge to break them loose. Not the best method but unless you have a lift, using a breaker bar is sometimes difficult to use due to space considerations.

Tim

So, should I avoid using WD40 or liquid wrench to help loosen them, or, just a careful application of force - or both?

Thanks much!!!

Bill
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Like lyontexas said - steady force. I didn't use any wd. The bolts really do have thin heads. I had my kid push on a 6 point socket while I turned the bar.

You can take the pads out before or after you remove the caliper. Drive the pins out, compress the piston a bit by prying the pad out-board with a small prybar, and the pads will lift right out.

If you've ever added brake fluid, make sure you put a bunch of rags under the master cylinder reservoir. Better yet, suck some brake fluid out before you start.
You'll have to compress the pistons all the way in to install the new pads. All that displaced fluid will go back to the reservoir and may spill out. Go slowly. Brake fluid melts paint!

__________________
Thank You!
Fred
2009 ML350
2004 SL600
2004 SL500
1996 SL600
2002 SLK32
2005 CLK320 cabrio
2003 ML350
1997 C280 Sport