I borrowed this tool made by Baum that is a copy of the Sir/Klann tool. I looked at the tool and at 1st it looked straight forward to me, but now when I try to use it on the spring I'm having the following problems.

1) Can get 1st plate on bottom of spring easily, but I can only get top plate in middle of spring and no higher. Is that enough to get the spring out (ie. compress from middle to bottom).

2) I cannot get the shaft that connects the 2 plates in from the bottom or top of the spring. Is there something that I'm missing.

Thanks, Steve

I just used that tool a few days ago.

1) Why can't you get the top plate very close to the top of the spring. If necessary, you can put the plate in the middle of the spring and rotate the plate until it climbs up the coils. You need at least 5 coils between the plates on the rear spring to remove it. On the front spring, you will probably need quite a few more. Better to leave as few coils as possible outside the plates. Less total force is then required.

2) Why not? The shaft is inserted from the bottom of the spring (on the rear springs) and it reaches up and engages the slots on the top plate. I would presume that the front springs are done with the shaft entending through the top of the spring. The shaft needs to be extended to the maximum position for this to occur. Turn the adustment nut to lengthen the shaft.

Brian,

The coils on the front on the 560sl are wound pretty tight. I've done what you recommended, and have managed to get all but 3-4 coils between the 2 plates.

My larger concern is how to get the connecting shaft down inside the coil. The hole on bottom is too small and clearance on top between spring holder and inside fender is a bit tight. Perhaps this is not the right tool although I've seen it advertised for this car. Is there a difference between the 560sl and 300sdl?

Steve

PS. I can send picture if you like?

Sounds like you have it properly setup. I have not done the front yet, but, the connecting shaft has a limited length. If the plates are too far apart, you may need to move them closer together. You can just rotate them in the coils.

BTW, you do have the front of the vehicle supported via the body, so the spring is extended, correct? And the top of the shock has been disconnected?? The spring needs to start with the maximum elongation possible.

The shaft "should" drop down straight into the hole in the body, at the top of the spring. I'm not sure which clearance is insufficient on the top? It does sound like the 560SL is different than the 300SDL. A photo or two might be helpful.

See attached!

Thanks, Steve

Attached Thumbnails

 

Yep, you have a problem there. The SL is quite different from the SDL. The SDL has the spring sitting directly on the body.

My only suggestion is to wind the shaft down to make it as small as you possibly can. Then see if you can get it to go into the spring. Once in there, you can get a socket on the shaft and lengthen it .

Those coils look very tight. It's not going to be any fun trying to manipulate the shaft through the plates.

No chance of going through the bottom???

Brian,

Car is supported by frame so springs should be fully extended. Cannot go through the bottom so only option is top. However, have already shortened shaft to min. length and still can't get shaft inside coil. It is close and some minor forced might do it, but then how to I get it out?

Why do only I have these kind of issues!

Steve

On the 107, the front spring is removed by removing the inboard attachments of the LCA and lowering by jack with a special cradle attachment; job # 32-200 in the manual. No spring compressor used. FWIW, only quoting the manual; never done a 107.

__________________
The Golden Rule

1984 300SD (bought new, sold it in 1988, bought it back 13 yrs. later)

JBA,

I've done it that way before. It wasn't bad getting the spring out, but putting it back had my hair standing on edge. Trying to compress the spring with a floor jack while also aligning the inboard lower control arm pivot points was a bear.

I thought that this would be the safe and smart way to go. Guess I was wrong. However, my copy of the CD manual shows a spring compressor that is different than the one I have.

Steve

It appears that the W107 uses a different tool than the Klann. Trying to force that shaft into the spring will allow you to get the plates engaged. Then, when you tighten the shaft, the spring, plates, and shaft all come out together.

Now, if you are successful in removing it with the Klann clone, I certainly would not use it to put the spring back in, because you'll never get the shaft out from inside the spring.

The Sir Tool site says that this tool is to be used for the W107

http://www.sirtools.com/mbsirs-153.jpg

M0070 - Spring Compressor Kit for front and rear coil springs. Applicable: Mercedes chassis W107, W116, W123, W124, W126, W129, W140, W201, W202. Big Time-Saver! Will pay for itself many times over!
Click Here for the Big Picture.
Comes with a convenient carrying case.

Klann shows the same tool, but their wording doesn't indicate that it can be used for the W107. Who's correct?

http://www.samstagsales.com/klann_spring.htm

3-point interlock system.
For Chassis W116, W123, W124, W126, W129, W140, W170,W201, W202, W208, W210.
Made in Germany.
Compression Range 110-317mm
Working Travel 207mm
Overall tool length 263mm
Drive 19mm hex
Max Load 26,000 N
Breaking Point 120,000N
Weight 4.8Kg
With fitted Case.
Federspanngerät mit Druckplatten Gr. 1 +2
Spring Compressor with Jaws size 1 and 2 (KL0025-11), (KL0025-12)
Do NOT use an impact tool with this spring compressor!
Price: $1248.50 plus shipping. Ship estimated 14 pounds.

Steve

Having no data other than your photograph and the Klann information, I would take a stab and say that Klann is likely correct.

I don't see how this unit can function properly for that vehicle based upon your description and excellent photo.

The tool below is being sold on Ebay for W107's and the picture seems to show that the plates can either be attached in the middle or from the side. I'll have to check mine tonight, but if this is the case then perhaps I can use this tool after all.

Steve

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4552230356&category=35625&sspagename=WDVW#ebayphotohosting

That one looks a bit different than the one you and I have. I don't see how the plates can attach to the side of the center shaft.

I decided to go ahead and remove the spring the old fashioned way without the compressor. Just used a floor jack and lowered control arm to the ground and removed spring.

However, it doesn't seem obvious to me how you get the bushings out of the LCA so that I can replace?

Steve