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  #1  
Old 05-26-2005, 08:26 AM
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5-speed swap into 95 E320

I need some help. I can turn a wrench just fine, I just can't seem to find the info, and maybe someone here has experience or the knowledge I'm looking for.
My transmission is going to be toast in pretty short order. I'd like to convert the wagon to a 5-speed. This is my "extra" car, so I can take some time with it to do it right. I know the bolt pattern is correct to put a 300E 5-speed into my wagon. I can get a donor 300E manual, so pedals, shifter, etc are there. Does anyone know what I can and cannot use from the 300E to do this conversion? And if there are incompatible items, does anyone know where I could get them from?
Thanks. Brian

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  #2  
Old 05-26-2005, 08:31 AM
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Other than drive shaft length & possibly the signal from the trans B1 switch to the fuel/ignition ECU, that should be a bolt-in.
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  #3  
Old 05-26-2005, 09:32 AM
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Wow, thanks for the quick response, M.B.DOC! That's really good news! I can have a driveshaft modified. Any suggestions on how to deal with the signal to the computer? Could you describe what the purpose/function of the signal is?
Does anyone know if the manual trans from an '86 or '88 US car is the same as a manual from a 93-95 Euro car with the M104? If there's little difference, then maybe I could deal with compatibility issues like M.B.DOC mentioned by sourcing parts from Europe? I'm talking about little electrical gizmo parts or smallish mechanical items, not big stuff like driveshaft and clutch. I don't want to take out a 2nd mortgage for this!
Thanks again!
Brian
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  #4  
Old 05-26-2005, 11:14 AM
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I just had to reply...

5 speeds are the only way to go
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5 speed '91 190E 2.6 320,000 mi. (new car, fast, smooth as silk six, couldn't find any more Peugeots)
5 speed '85 Peugeot 505 2.5l Turbo Diesel 266,000 mi. (old car, fast for a diesel, had 2 others)
5 speed '01 Jetta V6 (new wifes car, pretty quick)
5 speed '85 Peugeot 505 2.2l Turbo Gas 197,000 mi. (wifes car, faster, sadly gone just short of 200k )
5 speed '83 Yamaha 750 Maxim 14,000 mi. (fastest)
0 speed 4' x 8' 1800 lb Harbor Freight utility trailer (only as fast as what's pulling it)
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  #5  
Old 05-26-2005, 04:43 PM
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Jim, you must get elbow-itis from doing all that shifting!
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  #6  
Old 05-26-2005, 04:51 PM
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Okay, I searched B-1 switch. I guess it will be kind of difficult to have a standard transmission send a signal from a switch that it does not have! Hmmm.
In any case, could someone please describe WHY the auto transmission has to communicate with the ECU concerning the B1 switch. Is this a defueling thing between shifts? I know some on this site have done the conversion to std shift from auto, but none that I've seen on this late a model year. Did anyone have to address this issue?
Any ideas or suggestions would be very helpful.
Thanks! Brian
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  #7  
Old 05-26-2005, 08:34 PM
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The B1 switch is the transmissions protective circuit which is found in cars (Mercedes and Porsche 928) with high torque motors. To protect the transmission internal components from high torque loads while up shifting from 1st to 2nd and down shifting from 3rd to 2nd the engine torque will be reduced.

. The B1 band has to be applied for 2nd gear, there is a switch connected to the B1 band pin which signals the controller when the transmission has made a part or full throttle shift into 2nd gear. The ignition controller will retard ignition timing, thereby reducing the torque load to the transmission.

If you disconnect the B1 switch the default will be restarted timing
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Old 05-26-2005, 09:19 PM
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Thanks C32AMG. So if I'm reading this right, then you think I should be okay. The B1 switch will only send signal to the ECU during shifts into 2nd gear, to save the auto tranny from unnecessary torque damage. If no signal is sent (unplugged), timing never gets retarded and I have 'standard' timing constantly. The ECU just thinks that I got the optional factory 2nd gear delete
I got the wife's buy-in on this. I think I'm going to do it. I'll just keep all the original bits around just in case it ends in disaster for some reason.
Thanks.
Brian
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  #9  
Old 05-27-2005, 08:10 AM
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C32 meant retarded timing with B1 switch un-plugged!

You should be able to leave the B1 switch connected & tie-strapped to the wiring harness.
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  #10  
Old 05-27-2005, 06:33 PM
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I got it now. Sometimes I need to be struck over the head a few times before something sinks in. I may have taken a few too many hits this time. It's a delicate balance.
Thank you all for your insights!
Brian.
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  #11  
Old 11-09-2005, 11:17 PM
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So, did you get it done ?

I'm contemplating this for my C36-powered wagon . . .

:-) neil

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