Front and Rear? suspension W124

[Rahulio1989300E]

Hello,

I am about to get a full suspension rework on my car...

1989 300E

Here is what I plan to get done...

Left Tie Rod
Right Tie Rod
Steering Damper
Left Ball Joint
Right Ball Joint
Both front sway bar bushings

Should I get the strut/shock mounts done? (circular black rubber above wheel wells...)

Should I also get the rear links and bars done next to the rear brakes?
I think some of them are called torque rods or something like that...

I don't know any lingo about my suspension, how embarassing.

[radunegru]

There is a lot to write about the suspension issue.
First of all what is the symptom, mileage on the car and its condition.
Start with the cheapest and easiest parts to replace.
Front:
Sway bar bushings (4 total , 2 on the lower control arm , 2 on the sway bar bracket) cost around $20 time 20min DIY
Rear
Sway bar links 2X $8 time 30min .
This will improve the ride a lot.
At the time you will do those replacements you will have the opportunity to inspect al others rubber bushings.
Front look at lower control arm bushings
Check the play in ball joints(lower ball joint from control arm) and all tie rods and central link and steering dumper.

Rear:
check the bushings at all remaining 4 links plus !!!!!check the sub frame bushings.
If the rubber is hard and cracked change them but you are looking at around $300 per side DIY. After that you will need an alignment.
Also look at the wheel bearing play an all 4 wheels.

I think you got enough homework for today. Good luck.
see attached pictures.

[samiam4]

What has been done to your car before?


At 187,000 miles and being an 89' model, it could probably use most things. Is there something specific you are trying to cure?

Are you doing this or paying a shop?? Reason why is labor costs-

If I was paying a shop I might get NEW lower control arms but doing it myself- it's a good savings for the lower ball joints and bushings. I'd put new spring pads on the car ... struts can be reused unless they are bad.

Need to check the idler arm for play- 0.002" is the spec. Kit is cheap from the dealer.

I'd look closely at the drag link and the condition of the upper strut mounts. You'll probably need new boots for the struts and the end of travel stop.

Tie-rod end assy's are pretty cheap-FYI factory ones don't come with the nuts.

Rear requires lots of inspection to decide what is damaged.


Michael

[psfred]

If the tie rods are bad, replace the drag link too, or you will have to do it later and get another alignment. I would also replace the strut mounts by that age and milage on spec, but certainly if they show ANY evidence of cracks, replace them. Easy to do, but you must be very carefull if you do not remove the spring, as you have to take the strut loose -- if the wheel is not sitting on the ground, the spring likely will escape. I'm too old for that kind of excitement these days.

On the rear, expect the thrust and torque links to be bad. The are the two diagonal ones. One goes from the subrame straight back to the wheel carrier (thrust link) and the other goes diagonally toward the center of the car (torque link). Bad thrust links squeak, bad torque links cause torque steer and loud thumps under the rear seat.

The links aren't bad to do, just make sure the bolts are loose until you jack the suspension back up level -- the bushing in the link acts as part of the spring, and if you leave the suspension hanging when you tighten the bolts the rear end will sit way high and drive weird.

Peter

Peter

[r_p_ryan]

I'm guessing the CA bushings at the eccentrics are getting replaced when the ball joints are done? also replace the eccentric bolts.

[sbourg]

Originally Posted by Rahulio1989300E

Hello,

I am about to get a full suspension rework on my car...

1989 300E

Here is what I plan to get done...

You did not mention the idler arm bushing. On our '91 in CA, this is the ONLY item in the front suspension/steering that was worn out, so I would bet yours is too, and a notable cause of imprecision and wander in the steering. I did replace sway bar bushings to firm up handling and 'cause it's an easy job.

Shotgun replacements often miss the point, since without diagnosis it is easy to miss that ONE item that is causing a problem. Techs may find it easier to recommend that approach since it saves them diagnostic time, and what do they care if you still have a problem? Just more money in their pockets. Impress on them that you expect your problem to be resolved, or they'll have to keep and put back the old parts so you can seek resolution elsewhere.

Steve

[Rahulio1989300E]

Hello everyone and thanks for the quick responses.

My car's suspension is pretty much used up...

My strut mounts do indeed have small cracks, the car's direction is easily influenced by wind, front right spring area makes alot noise when making right turns, and my right rear suspension area makes these light but loud clanking noises when traveling over bumpy roads or speed bumps!

I will most likely have to do a lot of replacing anyways...

Can you guys tell me what things can be replaced independently from each other.... with having to do another alignment...

I figure that flex discs could be done seperately....