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I'm working on one of my old daily drivers, '87 Accord, and somehow managed to slightly damage the low pressure side schrader valve. I believe that the schrader valve is not opening because the can of R-12 is not getting cold when the can tap and low pressure side service valve are opened.
I've read about male thread chasers on one a/c parts site, but it looks like those were designed primarily for condensor/evaporator work. I'm wondering if anyone has ever repaired a schrader valve with something like a male thread chaser? I may end up having to remove what charge remains, pull the hose, and let a local a/c shop install a new schrader valve to the hose. If it weren't for the fact that I'm planning on selling the car, I'd more than likely go that route, but right now, I'd just as soon pursue any "gets it done" backyard approach. Knowledgeable thoughts appreciated. Thanks for your time.
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Mike Murrell 1991 300-SEL - Model 126 M103 - SOHC "Fräulein" |
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#2
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Why not change the valve core yourself? It's no harder than a valve core in a tire. Unless your definition of 'slightly damaged' means 'butchered beyond all hope'.
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1989 300 SEL that mostly works, but needs TLC |
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#3
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Test the valve with the car off by pressing in the valve with the head of a finish nail.. if you get a squirt of pressure , the valve is working , but your hose pin may not be going on far enough to open valve.
You can test that by putting hose on before opening can and loosen hose at can and see if pressure is coming back up the hose from the port. Or, use gauges [ you asked for backyard approach, so.. no gauges] If the outside threads are what you are talking about, then you have to die them clean again.. |
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#4
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I find that the valve is a constant source of leak even if it is new. It must be complemented with a metal cap with a rubber or o-ring gasket inside.
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1992 124 E200 (Euro) |
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#5
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Quote:
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#6
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Arthur:
Yes...I'm talking about the outer threads; not the depressable valve. Are there any mass-marketers..ie..Sears, etc. that might sell a tool suitable for this re-dyeing? I have R-12 gauges, but am simply trying to avoid having to extract refrigerant, remove hose, pay for hose repair, etc. Thanks.
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Mike Murrell 1991 300-SEL - Model 126 M103 - SOHC "Fräulein" |
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#7
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Quote:
Thread Files
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1989 300 SEL that mostly works, but needs TLC |
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#8
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$$$PIT:
If it won't cut into your 4th of July holiday, I would appreciate that information. Thanks for your time.
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Mike Murrell 1991 300-SEL - Model 126 M103 - SOHC "Fräulein" |
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#9
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Quote:
Sure .. Sears is as good a place as any.. Just ask for a 7/16x20 die... PS ... seeing its a Holiday, you may even have a friend with a standard tap/die set .. that die is in any regular tap/die set.. nothing special about the thread... I would put some grease/petro jelly on the treads to catch the metal the die is going to cut away and then wipe it w/rag. .turning CW.. lastly, just get a quick squirt from the valve stem by depressing it to have the system pressure blow what is left in the valve out of it to be sure ... Gerry rig works great at times of dispair.. I have even gone so low as to make a die out of a flare nut by cutting a pie shape out of it as a relief and screwing onto the male .. it actually will cut threads . Good Luck.. Last edited by Arthur Dalton; 07-03-2005 at 11:48 PM. |
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#10
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Arthur:
Thanks for your help.
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Mike Murrell 1991 300-SEL - Model 126 M103 - SOHC "Fräulein" |
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#11
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I'm not sure why this isn't obvious....
But there is a $35 tool which allows replacement of the shradervalve with the refregerant charge. It's the BEST way to do it.. I purchased mine from an applicance parts place a few years ago. Took them 2 days to get one for R-12. Michael
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Michael McGuire 83 300d 01 vw A4 TDI 66 Chevy Corsa 68 GMC V6 w/oD 86 300E |
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