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Originally Posted by Duke2.6
Epilog:
The backup light switch operates normally when tested with an ohmmeter, but when you place the circuit load on the switch it DOESN'T WORK!!!
I can't recall ever seeing this, but I talked to a buddy who has a lot of experience with electronics assembly, and he says it happens. In fact, it happened to him about 30 years ago on a mid-seventies 911 he owned.
The switch is on order (about 11 bucks) from my local dealer and should be in on Monday. I managed to remove the switch (press the plastic tabs together) using a paint can opener that has a little hook on the end, and an ancient Look Nevada ski binding tool! It took a few tries, but finally popped out.
I always admonish all to do diagnostics before replacing parts. In this case the diagnostics didn't lead to a logical conclusion, so I spent a lot of time chasing ghosts and scratching my head. I would have been better off just replacing the switch appriori, so in this case doing diagnostics sent my down a blind trail, but that's usually not the case.
I plan on doing a switch autopsy.
Duke
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Just when you think you've seen it all...
Once, I went looking for a 0.3 amp current draw on a late 70's Cadillac. I was able to trace it to the circuit that powered interior lights and cigar lighters and such. Then I got stumped. After a -long- while, I managed to trace it to the glove box lamp...WHICH DIDN'T LIGHT UP. In my first go-around on the car, I dismissed the glove box lamp because it didn't light, but sure enough, the switch was passing enough current to kill the battery, but not enough to light the lamp. No difference with the glove box lid open or closed. Pulled the lightbulb and the current draw went away. Sheesh.
07-16-2005, 01:34 PM
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