Hi,
I have a 300E 1988 with about 150k on it. I think the shocks are dead and if they are not, they should be. I know that the right front is gone by the sound and the handling has gone way downhill.

Question, I am not a mechanic but am fairly handy. I am tryin to save a buck and found a full set of KYB's for $244 shipped. Good deal? Now when I get them I was wondering if installing them was a big deal. Is it something that a normal guy can handle? Do I need a spring compressor or any special tools? I read about the Haynes manual but don't know what it is and don't want to have to buy one.

Can someone either point me in the right direction or tell me to faaaaget about it or clue me in to the procedure?

Thanks in advance.

AG

I would be surprised if your shocks are worn out at this mileage. Unless they are leaking they should be in reasonable shape. There are MANY things that could cause poor handling. Buying shocks thinking that it may cure the problem is absolutely a shot in the dark.

If you do buy shocks, KYB's are like bolting steel rods in place of the shocks. Buy Bilsteins.

Put the car safely in the air and start pushing, prying and prodding on all suspension components until you find something loose and replace it.

Good luck,

Here's the 3 step procedure for replacing shocks, specific to your case:

1. See if you can return the KYBs, if so return, if not sell on Ebay
2. Buy Bilstein shocks, not much more than you paid.
3. Install the Bilsteins

Seriously I would not worry about how to do until you get the right shocks in hand. It's really pretty easy - there's plenty of threads on the subject, and you have a private message.

As Larry said, the correct procedure would be to determine the problem before throwing shocks at the issue. If you are as concerned as you seem about cost, you'll REALLY be po'd after buying and replacing four shocks with no effect.

Steve

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'91 MB 190E 2.3
'08 RAV4 Ltd 3.5
'83 Lazy Daze m'home 5.7

Check out my DIY article on replacing the ball joints on the 300e, it'll show you what's required as the struts are removed for that job.

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89 300te 222,222
92 300e 190,000

sure do this and u get the springs right in your face First of all,yes the bilstein are a lot better,second of all yes u can do the job but be Very carefull with the front shocks.What u do is do one side at a time.lift one side up at a time and put a stand under car,let car down and remove tire.Work should be done on a flat surface .than take your floor jack and put it under under the balljoint and pump it untill there is tension on the control arm.remove the nut on top of shock,need are a 22mm socketand a 7or 8 mm allen. than remove the the 3 lower bolts and wires from strut.remove strut install new strut and reuse the plastic clip for the wires .install upper nut..but installing and tightening the nut will be diffi****,cause the shock shaft will be spining too.shock damage can occur on inside of shock. so i would say if u can remove the nut with no problem ,than u should be ok to installl the new one...GOOD LUCK Harald

I'm very curious how raising the car to check the suspension components will result in "springs right in your face?" Have you ever raised a car to check suspension components????????

I have done this hundreds of times on all different kinds of cars. How do YOU go about checking suspension components?

BTW, while you're buisy learning about front suspension, you might also try to learn something about spelling and punctuation.

Hey Larry it was late last night when i read and wrote this ,i miss read what u where saying.Of course u can lift the car up .what i read and understood last night you saying to take the top shock nut of and raise the car.Now that i reread your reply,i did see i was wrong,and for my reply excuse abouit the spring flying out.But if the shocks are being replace do not remove the top shock nut without supporting the lover control arm.

umm, apologies for being all crotchety and all, but did you look at the diy I spent *forever* writing up? It even shows you the pictures of what may fly into your face. read it. please. at least just pretend you read it.

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89 300te 222,222
92 300e 190,000

LOL. rp, you are very polite. Your post reminded me of something said one time.

I have been in the automation software industry for 17 years. One time at a users group meeting, our Technical Support manager was going over the steps to take when seeking software support. He also is a very polite guy, more so even, because he was speaking to our customers. He went through the preliminary suggestions for getting the best results from a tech support call. In these steps he said "we like it very much when you take the shrink wrap OFF the manuals BEFORE you call us."

In the software support business, the 80/20 rule DEFINITELY applies. 80% of your efforts go to 20% of the customers(In reality more like 95/5.) This 20% is, for the most part, the shameless ones who have no problem calling with a basic question on something that is covered quite clearly in the documentation.

Have a great day,

Before you condem the shocks, check the sway bar end bushings -- likely they are worn out, allowing both excessive body roll and quite a bit of noise as the end rattles agains the rock hard rubber bushing. If you can see space around them, they are gone.

Easy job.

Don't bother with KYB shocks -- worn out Bilstiens will give you a better, less harsh ride!

Note that you MUST either support the lower control arm by putting it on a jack stand and setting the car down OR use a spring compressor to hold the spring BEFORE removing the strut on this car, else there is NOTHING holding the control arm up, and it is quite possible for the spring to pop out under pressure. Not funny..... I just did a ball joint today, a jack stand under the spring pocket works very nicely.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

thanks psfred for your good assesement on the shocks.ANd Ryan i dope it was not me that u where being sarcastic about me appolegising,cause i do know what i am doing. And LARY BIBLE are u always a PRICK or do u just wake up and say i fel craby ,didnt get layed. So i think i'll be a prick today.You Quoteing Ryan and having some lame ass exuse of a AUTOMATION SOFTWARE INDUSTRY.So what does that make you any kind of EXPERT of telling other people on how to repair ther car.Yes i did miss read your 2'nd last reply ,and saying that u are the king SPELLING and punctuations..So maybe u should keep your profesion where u think u are good at ,and keep it there.And let the people that know what they are doing help other people with there problems and u stay as far away from a car as much as pushing ,prying and prodding as u called it,,,And sorry Ryan i did not find your artical on the ball joints Best Wishes for all exept one Harald

MeanGrean -

It is interesting to me that when it is pointed out that, in essence, you can't spell, don't use capitalization, or punctuation, you take offense and condemn the messenger's skills. Sorry the world is not fair. He is correct to point this out to you. Your writing is atrocious, and very hard to read.

Personally, writing like this causes me to discount anything that is written.
It implies to me that the writer also must have difficulty reading. Many things in auto repair require some fairly precise technical reading.

I will take Larry's advice on MB repair over your's everytime.

Steve