Hello All,

I'm replacing all the rotors/pads/sensors and the emergency brake assembly on the 2.6 this weekend (will probably turn into a week).

Needless to say, brake fluid is nasty stuff.

I broke down and bought an impact wrench and air compressor to get those dreaded 19mm bolts off (that attach the caliper to the steering knuckle). I took Benzmac's advice from a previous post and got a 1/2" drive universal adapter to get at the top bolt on the steering knuckle. (THOSE SUCKERS ARE TORQUED TO 85 ft/lbs !!!).

I'm ready to bleed the system, I thought first before I take the pads out of the calipers...I'd take off the rubber brake fluid lines to the calipers and let them drain out into glass jars? Would this be okay or am I an idiot?

I thought that if I do this, I would then be able to compress the caliper piston back into the chamber with the pads still on (I've left the cap still on the resevoir....don't want to ruin paint in engine bay!) with a C clamp and then I'd have minimal bad fluid....

Will this save me any time on the bleeding?

Do any of you guys clean down calipers on the bench with brake system cleaner first?

Looking for tips and suggestions as I've found my search of previous posts to leave me further wondering....

Any help much appreciated.

Cheers,

Mike

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1989 300CE - 269,000 km
1994 SL600 - 59,000 km

you dont need to bleed the brakes if only the pads are worn. just push the pads back and replace them. this will raise the level in the res but unless it is really full wont over flow it. so dont take the brake lines off and you wont have to bleed it. if the res is very full before you start then suck some of the fluid out with a rubber baster (like from the kitchen), but dont return it to the kitchen, just buy another one.

now if your brake fluid is nasty and black or if you dont know how long it has been since the fluid has been changed, then perhaps bleeding the system is just what the dr ordered. however i would recommend getting someone who has done it before, successfully, to assist you.

if necessary come back here and someone can walk you through bleeding step by step, but it is a lot easier if some one can show you.

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

gravity will not bleed the brake system.

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

You don't need to remove the caliper to change front pads. Just remove the bottom bolt, lift up the caliper and tie it with a piece of string while you swap pads. Be careful that the antirattle springs seat properly as you reinstall the caliper.

To retract the piston attach a bleed hose, open the bleed valve, support the back of the caliper against something solid with a wood block and use a hammer handle to push the piston back.

On each rear caliper, attach a bleed hose, open the valve, remove one pad, push back the piston, install the new pad, then do the other pad.

I assume you want to flush the system. After all other work is done siphon as much from the reservoir as possible. The rear is tough to siphon because of the baffling, so bleed it nearly dry. Carefully watch the inside rear of the reservoir to watch the level. When it's almost empty, fill the res. with fresh fluid. Rock the res. back and forth and be sure the rear res. fills.

Since the rear res. is tough to see, many think the res. if "full" and start bleeding, then can't understand why all they get is air and there is no pedal.

Duke