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#1
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More Front Suspension Work
Last year I did some front suspension repair work on my moneypit 300SE. Now it clunks again so I'm going to completely overhaul it, all new bushings and the brake rod bushings. I bought the spring compressor and I now have one side apart. I'll take some pics and post them. I also have to remove the brake booster and master cylinder to get at the sway bar bushing. What a PITA that is, but at least it will be new. I also have to replace the steering gear becasue it's knocking. Since I''m in there, the brake hosees will get replaced.
This seems like the never ending repair story. Then there's the cylinder head. Whew!
__________________
Regards Warren Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL ENTER > = (HP RPN) Not part of the in-crowd since 1952. |
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#2
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Drivers side bushing replaced. Onward and upward.
__________________
Regards Warren Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL ENTER > = (HP RPN) Not part of the in-crowd since 1952. |
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#3
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Are you using original parts?
Didn't you just do that job? The reason that I ask is that I followed your thread when I rebuilt my 300SD front end last year and now I am getting some clunks.
I think it is because I did not use original parts. When it was all together, I took it to the dealer for an alignment and could not get enough Caster to meet the alignment specs. (The car has never been hit and prior to rebuilding the front end I had no trouble meeting specs). Why do you think your car has clunking noises after such a short time? In my case I think it is because the (Febi) track rod mounts that I used are of such poor quality that they are causing the problem.
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Tom Hughes St. Louis 84 300SD 92 300D 86 300SDL |
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#4
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Front End
I did not see any of your earlier posts on this subject. If you are going to replace the lower ball joints you will need a special tool. I believe that you can rent one from Performamnce Products. I made one, but it did not work very well.
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#5
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Quote:
I'm also going to replace the front calipers and master cyl. There is some kind of black sediment in the reservoir. The fluid was also black and had sediment in it. I hope my ABS controler is OK.
__________________
Regards Warren Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL ENTER > = (HP RPN) Not part of the in-crowd since 1952. |
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#6
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Here Are Some Pics
Here is a link to all the FS bits:
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b177/wb300se/IMG_3179.jpg My helper: http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b177/wb300se/IMG_3181.jpg The old drivers side sway bar bushing: http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b177/wb300se/IMG_3224.jpg The new one: http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b177/wb300se/IMG_3223.jpg Looking at the front sway bar clamp bolt, the brake booster is in front: http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b177/wb300se/IMG_3226.jpg Socket and u-joint on the front bolt: http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b177/wb300se/IMG_3227.jpg Socket on the rear bolt, what a PITA: http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b177/wb300se/IMG_3228.jpg This is how it's done: http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b177/wb300se/IMG_3229.jpg More to follow...
__________________
Regards Warren Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL ENTER > = (HP RPN) Not part of the in-crowd since 1952. |
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#7
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Interesting thread!
Is the "big ball joint at the chassis" the track rod mount? What do you think you did wrong when you installed it that caused it to become damaged? I am following your thread closely because what you do may help me determine why I have front end clunks after only a year. My guess is faulty parts but maybe I did something wrong.
I had a spring compressor so I replaced everything. The only thing I didn't do in my suspension rebuild was replace the sway bar bushings so that is the first thing that I will do on my second try. How long did it take you to do that? Replacing the Lower control arm bushings was pretty tricky. Did you take it to a shop? I did it myself and ended up cutting the outside of the bushing with a hacksaw to break it loose from where it was pressed into the metal shaft of the center bushing. I then pried the bushing out of the control arm and pulled the center bushing out with a threaded rod. A PVC pipe union (o.d. 2 3/4) worked fine for pressing the large part of the outside piece into one side of the control arm. Then I used the bolt from my old idler arm to pull the inside in. I did the other side in stages using the bolt and the PVC union. I am sure that it is much easier with the right tool.
__________________
Tom Hughes St. Louis 84 300SD 92 300D 86 300SDL |
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