I was just bopping around in Wally World getting my fishing license updated.

Anyway at the risk of starting a new oil thread... Does anyone have experience using Rotella Full Synthetic 5w-40 in a gas engine. It was 13.45 or so for 4 quarts. It said it had the same protection qualities as a standard oil 15w-40. And it had the lastest "m" designation.

I was thinking about it for my sons car. He only drives about 7-800 miles a month. I noticed Mobil 1 Extended Synthetic was about 22 dollars for 5 quarts in the 15w-50 weight.

I am starting to think about the short winter period here, where I back off of 20w-50 dino for about 3-4 months or one oil change. He's on track to burn off a quart at 3200-3500 miles this go round. About the same as always. I always change at 3000 miles. Thought with the Rotella I could probably go 4000.

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1989 300ce 129k
( facelifted front,updated tail lights, lowered suspension,bilstein sports, lorinser front spoiler, MOMO steering wheel, remus exhaust,stainless steel brake lines). (Gone)

1997 s320 154k (what a ride). Sold with 179k miles. Replaced with Hyundai Equus

1994 e320 Cabriolet 108k



1972 280se 4.5 153k Owned for 12 yrs, sorry I sold it


[/SIGPIC]

I should think that with a full synthetic oil, such as the Rotella synthetic, you can extend oil changes. When I run dyno oil, I change oil at 3K, but with any synthetic oil, be it Amsoil synthetic, or Moble 1, or Rotella synthetic, I was using M-1, I change at 5K in my 87 300D. With a gasser, I would think you could go well beyond 5K oil changes, such as 6K, or 7K.

There's no point using a synthetic, if you change it every 3000. The primary economic value of any synthetic-base motor oil is longer service intervals due to their lower rate of oxidation.

Any 15W-40 CI-4 oil is easily good for 3000 miles and okay for cold starts down to about 5F according to the oil viscosity charts for most 80s/90s vintage Mercedes engines that were originally equipped with mineral-based motor oils with a 7500 mile recommended change interval.

Duke

I've been using the 5W-40 Rotella synthetic in the 603 for the past year.

Changes every 5K. Two oil analysis confirmed that the oil could have easily gone longer. The soot was still below 1% on both oil changes.

On the last change, I extended the interval to 6K. Didn't get it analyzed however.

I'm quite sure you can run this oil to at least 7.5K on a gasser. Probably go even longer than 7.5K, but, I'd sure not even think about anything less.

when i was at wal-mart i saw that they had mobile (or valvoline) oil 0-w40 for european cars. i read the back and it said that it was the start up oil used in mercedes benz. does anyone know much about that. at almost $5 a quart i am skeptical but tempted to try it out.

Most MB's come with Mobil 1 0W40 from the factory now, is my understanding.

It may be coincidence, but after I changed to Rotella in my M104 gas engine it developed a severe leak at the rear and the leak at the front top got worse. 125k miles, too much detergent in the rotella I think (I used Mobil1 and Castrol synth prior to the Rotella, and have switched back).

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RIP "Betsy" (Oo=*=oO)
'96 E 3 2 0 (W 2 1 0) M 1 0 4 (Totalled)
Spaces in sig so as not to screw up the SEARCH; every time someone searches for that MB they don't want my sig!

2004 Audi A8L
'98 VW Passat 1.8T 5M
'87 Alfa Romeo Milano 2.5L 5M
'67 Impala convertible, 327cid

OK - can't help biting ...

I think it's cool that everyone has an opinion - especially on oils since it makes for a lively debate. That said, the facts speak for themselves.

Good quality synthetic oils are so much better than non-synthetics in every conceivable characteristic there is only one reason not to use them - a very short view, i.e. you don't want to put in the best possible because you are only going to keep the car for a short time (granted this is a bit selfish).

Duke 2.6 - in my opinion, you are way off technically, but certainly welcome to your own opinion.

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George Stephenson
1991 350 SDL (200K and she ain't bent, yet)
former 2002 E320 4Matic Wagon - good car
former 1985 300 CD - great car
former 1981 300 TD - good car
former 1972 280 SEL - not so good car
a couple of those diesel Rabbits ...40-45 mpg

I forgot to ask one other question.... what filters are you comfortable with...going 6 or 7k miles.

__________________
1989 300ce 129k
( facelifted front,updated tail lights, lowered suspension,bilstein sports, lorinser front spoiler, MOMO steering wheel, remus exhaust,stainless steel brake lines). (Gone)

1997 s320 154k (what a ride). Sold with 179k miles. Replaced with Hyundai Equus

1994 e320 Cabriolet 108k



1972 280se 4.5 153k Owned for 12 yrs, sorry I sold it


[/SIGPIC]

You need to do some real research instead of just listening to marketing hype and ill-informed opinions on internet discussion boards.

I've thoroughly researched motor oils including the relative merits of different base stocks and additive packages. This includes discussions with oil industry engineers/chemists who specialize in oil formulations and OEM engineers who develop and supervise lubrication system testing.

I personally have over 30 years of engineering experience including the automotive and aerospace iindustries, and as far as longevity is concerned my cars range in age from 14-42 years and were all purchased new.

But, hey, what do I know.

Duke

I've been using synthetic Rotella 5-40 for three, 6,000 mile oil changes now. No problems at all. I had a minor seepage at the front cover before I started using it and that has stopped. The PO told me that the engine burned & leaked a quart every thouusand miles or so. That was ok with me & I bought the car ('87 260E). Now it's about 1/3 of that.

Synthetic oil is significantly better in almost every measurable characteristic, but if it exceed your engine's requirements who cares? Can you jump higher in a room with a fifteen foot ceiling or a room with a thirty foot ceiling? It's main economic value is longer change intervals.

After the scare stories about cotton waste inside brand name filters, I've stuck with the Mahle filters that Fastlane sells. No complaints. I may have to cut open the next one to see what's inside it. That will be awhile, though.

P.S. Fastlane's shipping is amazing. I ordered some stuff fthrough the website on a Saturday evening, no human interaction. Monday afternoon it was on my doorstep. Amazing, just simply amazing.

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Norm in NJ
Next oil change at 230,000miles

I just removed a Mahle from the 603 after running it for 6K miles. It's outside right now letting all the oil drain out of it and then I'll cut it open.

We've got a thread going on DD (the second thread) about this. I'll post the results over there.

be surprised if the mahle is anything but top quality.

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Don't think I can convince so will bow out.

Good topic, though, for a definitive study by an independent organization.

__________________
George Stephenson
1991 350 SDL (200K and she ain't bent, yet)
former 2002 E320 4Matic Wagon - good car
former 1985 300 CD - great car
former 1981 300 TD - good car
former 1972 280 SEL - not so good car
a couple of those diesel Rabbits ...40-45 mpg

i use synthetic rotella in my 83 300sd....

and i just started using mobil one synthetic in my gas cars... there is a reason to use synthitic... i just tore down a turbo in my saab and the inside of it was coked up and filled with heavy sludge... what happens is that the turbo gets up to about 1100 degrees and dino oil turns to sludge at that point.. so if you have a turbo you have to have synthetic...

now.. i runined the turbo by breaking loose the sludge... so ouch....

if you have a car with a turbo use synthetic....