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  #1  
Old 08-22-2005, 08:30 PM
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Location: Delta, B.C. Canada
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1987 300e, Stalls when Hot

1987 300e, engine will quit suddenly when temp gauge reaches 100C. The tach needle drops immediatly as if you turned off the key. Recently replaced the following: Fuel pumps ( 2) plus filter, Cap & rotor, all plug wires and new plugs. New coil, replaced fuel relay. This problem usually occurs in stop and go traffic, once on the open road at speed, the temp gauge rarley rises above 80C. I do notice that when the engine is at temp, when I step on the gas hard, the engine will stumble until I back off, not consistantly though.
If I let the car sit with the hood open for approx 10-15 min, it will start fine. No problem with cold starts. Engine runs fine otherwise, no missing, good power.

HELP!!

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  #2  
Old 08-22-2005, 08:36 PM
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It might be one of the coolant temperature sensors located near the valve cover.
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1987 mercedes 300E
1995 e320 conversion(hated the 300e grill)
HID/Xenon (D2S)
Keyless Entry
Monochromatic Paint (Custom Blue)
Smoked Tails
Flat Badged (front)
Debadged (rear)
custom "carbon fiber" console
18 inch HP EVO rims
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  #3  
Old 08-22-2005, 09:16 PM
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I've read several times that a bad crankshaft position sensor gives such symptons.
Good luck, Bruno
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  #4  
Old 08-22-2005, 09:57 PM
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Is this a DIY job...to check and or replace the sensor?

Thanks
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  #5  
Old 08-23-2005, 09:12 PM
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Problem Solved

Thanks to Bruno_300TE, my problem is solved. The crankshaft position sensor was the culprit. Relativley easy, but dirty to replace. Car runs smooth and starts crisply.

You learn something every day it seems.

Thanks again to Bruno.

Charles K
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  #6  
Old 06-17-2006, 10:47 PM
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300E surges then quits

Help!!! I have a german 1985 300 E. They say its the same as 1986 US. Its a 6 cylinder fuel injected. It runs about 20 minutes then starts surging real bad upon acceleration, then it dies, completely everytime you just barely touch the accelerator. It will start right back up but will not move much if you have to press the accelerator. I live in Costa Rica and parts are VERY EXPENSIVE. I have replaced fuel filter, cleaned injectors, replaced fuel pump, and today the (Dosificadora) which is I think the fuel pressure regulator. Its the part that the fuel lines come out of to the injectors. New this part costs here $2000. Rebuilt $1000. I found a used one for $350. but when installed ...nothing ...no change. the mercedes mechanic feels real bad. But ???? I have read here about oxygin sensors, catalytic clogs and crankshaft sensors as being maybe the problem. I can't keep buying parts so really need help on what to do now. Its Friday night and I have an appoinment with my Baby and the mechanix Tuesday. I love this car.
Bill
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  #7  
Old 11-14-2007, 04:31 AM
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Location: new jersey, usa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill W. Rippy View Post
Help!!! I have a german 1985 300 E. They say its the same as 1986 US. Its a 6 cylinder fuel injected. It runs about 20 minutes then starts surging real bad upon acceleration, then it dies, completely everytime you just barely touch the accelerator. It will start right back up but will not move much if you have to press the accelerator. I live in Costa Rica and parts are VERY EXPENSIVE. I have replaced fuel filter, cleaned injectors, replaced fuel pump, and today the (Dosificadora) which is I think the fuel pressure regulator. Its the part that the fuel lines come out of to the injectors. New this part costs here $2000. Rebuilt $1000. I found a used one for $350. but when installed ...nothing ...no change. the mercedes mechanic feels real bad. But ???? I have read here about oxygin sensors, catalytic clogs and crankshaft sensors as being maybe the problem. I can't keep buying parts so really need help on what to do now. Its Friday night and I have an appoinment with my Baby and the mechanix Tuesday. I love this car.
Bill

did you ever find out what the problem was ?
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  #8  
Old 02-13-2016, 07:52 PM
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1986 300E crank sensor

Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles K. View Post
Thanks to Bruno_300TE, my problem is solved. The crankshaft position sensor was the culprit. Relativley easy, but dirty to replace. Car runs smooth and starts crisply.

You learn something every day it seems.

Thanks again to Bruno.

Charles K
I found your posts and I have similar symptoms

Which sensor is the culprit Front or rear??

Thank You,
Rich
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  #9  
Old 02-14-2016, 02:55 AM
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Location: Fribourg, Switzerland
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The diagnostic sign that it is indeed the crankshaft sensor is that revs drop to zero despite the engine still turning. The cable goes from the bell housing at the transmission to the ignition module at the left fender.
Another option could be faulty O2 sensor. It starts to operate with the coolant above a threshold temperature. If it provides false information, the mixture adjustment is screwed up. Or faulty coolant temperature sensor.
Or, the first thing to always check: Rotor, distributor and ignition wires.

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