I apologize in advance for the length. You may want to take a bathroom break or whatever before trying to decifer this story!!! Just trying to relieve as much guess work as possible.
The Vehicle,
1995 Mercedes Benz E320 Cabriolet
Model: 124.066
Engine: 104.992
Options:
Automatic transmission
ASR
CD changer
Mileage: 96000
Changes to vehicle:
Wiring Harness
EA/CC/ISC Actuator(M16/1)
Spark plugs......I figure about $250-$300 a hole so far!
(I should have never changed those darn spark plugs)
EGR cleanup routine with instructions found on forum.
Reference info:
Online Forums
AllData
Model 124 Service Manual CD Library
Problems:
ASR light on
Operating in Limp-Home mode
Transmission does not shift unless I let up on accelerator

Codes pulled with Impulse Counter Scan Tool(Awesome tool built from plans found on forum ),
Codes 11 and 14 from the EA/CC/ISC Control Module(Socket 14)
Code 8 from the HFM-SFI Engine Control Module(Socket 8)
Code 6 from the Diagnostic Module(Socket 3)
I ASSume this code is based on the other codes.

The CTP switch, fuel shutoff and brake switch passed the tests.
I checked for air leaks and do not believe there are any. I did replace all the rubber air fittings(I hope!) just in case. I did not replace any plastic lines. I then used a stethescope to try and listen for air leaks. I am not really sure what I was listening for but I touched it to as many lines and connectors as I could get to. I ASSumed that if there was a leak it would be noticable through that thing. Kinda fun though.

The EA does not feel like it is binding. When I turn on the ignition(not starting the vehicle) I hear the EA move and then it snaps back. It is not a smooth return and I can't recall if that is normal. I performed the throttle linkage adjustment. I have about 1/8" of play at the follower spring and the tips lined up on bowden cable. I checked for obstruction around the accelerator pedal and WOT switch. Also vaccumed to make sure. I believe it is setup correctly but the snap from the EA makes me wonder.

The only test step from Alldata I cannot remedy is for the code 11, socket 14, test 19 which is the closed throttle recognition signal to engine control module(N3/4). With the ignition ON the nominal values listed are <=4.8V - closed throttle position and >=5.5v - depress accelerator pedal. My results are 7.87 closed and 7.08 depressed. I am thinking that once I solve this I may be a winner. for now.

Does anyone know where I can get a schematic of the EA/CC/ISC control module(N4/1)? There are alot of numbers on the module...

VDO
412.228/001/032
124 545 6532 E-GAS
29.11.94 0018 HEI.S88
*EC69940I04881* 101 032

Better yet would be advice on how I can repair the unit. I understand there are serious liabilites in handing out that kind of information but I would love to get an anonymous email or find writing on a wall or or or.....to figure this thing out!!

Sorry about the long wind. If you made it this far, thanks for the time!
Take Care
Tom

Tom,
I am not familiar with the ODB I cars as much as the ODB II, but the ASR light being on complies with the fact that the EA/CC/ISC (N4/1) module is fed information from the ABS/ASR Module (N4/3). This would tell me to check the source of information to the N30/1 module. Also being a 95 model have you checked the wiring in your TBA? The wiring inside the black plastic sleeve disentegrates just like all the othe wiring as well, if it is sending a bad signal for the throttle position through the Enginne control module (N3/4) that could be causing your problem. I would inspect the wires connected to the TBA, if those were ok, then I would fully inspect the ABS speed sensors, and the ASR sensors, the ABS sensors on the wheels are common failure. I don't have a list of what those codes mean, but that is all I can offer, there is a site a guy made, it is really great on the TBA wire replacement, here it is. Good luck!
Brian
http://v12uberalles.com/throttle_actuator_rewire.htm

__________________
Brian W. Heitman

www.MBCA.org/northtexas

Join MBCA!!!

Hello,

I believe in my car the ABS module is N30 and the ASR module is N30/1. It gets confusing to me for sure. Also I thought that I do not have an N4/3 module because I have the ASR system which gets me the N4/1 module.

The EA/CC/ISC module N4/3 does receive information from both N30/1 and the ECM module N3/4.

In looking at the wiring diagrams I can't help but have a nagging feeling that the OVP(K1/2) and/or the stop lamp switch(s9/1) are somehow involved. I checked the stop lamp switch using the Alldata steps and it came out OK. I also replaced the fuse in the OVP just for the heck of it as the one in there appeared aright. It just seems that there have been ALOT of posts concerning these items and if I recall some of them said that even though they test out ok these parts can still be defective.

The TBA wiring is good. no signs of decay at all. I pulled the unit(M16/1), checked it and cleaned it up before reinstalling.

I pulled 1 of the wheel sensors and it is very dirty. The sensor still has the tip on it(looks like a screwdriver blade). I will clean and check the others.

Darn thing! I wish I did not like this car so much!! The challenge is fun but man...............Thank goodness I don't need it as a daily driver.

Any input is much appreciated.

Thanks
Take Care
Tom

Check if OVP is the new upgrade
New -000 540 67 45
Old -000 540 52 45
If not , change it
Brake sw for ASR can not be checked for limp as it is intermitant contact problem.
Again , due to high use, low cost and fail rate , advisable to change it .
Other suspects are sticking cable and possible odd tire sizing/pressures.
Sizing probs on asr are ususally coupled with higher speed kick-out of CC.
Also, if yuu lift the EA from under the hood by hand , you will put the ASR into limp.

Thanks for the info.

The OVP number is the new style.
I have checked the tire pressure and it was good. I do not recall any cc kickout.
I will replace brake lamp switch tommorrow.
The cable does not feel like it is hanging up but what the heck Its there and not to tough. Probably could use a cleaning anyway!

I HAVE lifted the EA several times. Both in removing the whole unit(M16/1) and in trying to confirm that I had made the correct adjustments to the cables. Not to mention a couple of times in just plain frustration...snaaap.

If that turned on the ASR how would I go about resetting the error?

I have been clearing the codes on pin 3, 14 and 8 using the awesome impulse unit I made from plans found here(hey..don't I owe you something for that!?). then off ignition for at least 2 sec. followed by on for 10 ses. the EA makes a snapping sound during that time. It starts right up with a 1000 rpm idle. I have also let it sit for several minutes with the ignition on hoping to hear more from the EA but have heard nothing.

Also the last time as it was idling I push the brake pedal and noticed the idle drop off. It was very little(not sure of rpm) but I could do it at will.

One final note...when I was moving the throttle valve lever there was very little resistance to about halfway open then it was alot harder to open. Not binding but more like a spring was in play. Is this normal?

Thanks you guys for your interest in my problem. I feel like I am babbling some but I just want to try and give as much info as possible.

Take Care
Tom.

<

Glad you found a use for the tool .. very simple to make .
What you want to do is reset the modules memory after you clear the codes. This is done after you get a single flash from 8 and 14 by pressing again for 6 sec. , key off for 10, 0n for 10 and restart. This resets the mean of ECU.
You will not get a single flash on DM [ 3] until the Emissions module has gone through all self test. [few drive cycles]
None of your codes indicate BL sw. but I would chage it anyway if it is orig.
Your suspect is sticking cable.....