On most meters, to measure current you have to move one of the leads to a different hole in the meter. Not all are this way but most. Usually there is a line drawn from the mA switch position to the appropriate spot to give you a hint where to put the lead. Also you might want to start with the highest Amp position you have to avoid blowing the fuse. If you don't have an alternate place to plug in the probe then the problem could be blown fuse. If you have the meter set up for current and then accidently try to measure voltage it will blow the fuse.

Mike

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1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine)
1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow)
Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra

Thanks mpolli. The meter had another connection for 10 A. I'm using the Craftsman meter recomended on this forum due to its Duty Cycle Measurement capability.

This time circuit was completed and I got 1.40. Now I have this question, This number is displayed whether I turn the dail to mA or A. The only difference is that mA or A appears next to 1.40 depending on the dial setting!

I opened the door and the number jumped to 2.3. I'm assuming that I am reading A's not mA's.

At 32 F Ambient temp, the battery got to 12 volts and the "battery brain" disconected it sometime over night.

Charging system is working great, because afer driving around, it was at 12.9 volts.

Check Engine light comes on overnight with no key in the ignition. After starting the car, it goes out. I don't think that little light can cause a 1.4 A drain.

For now, I'm just disconnected the battery via remote control.

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Zafar
94 E320 58000 Miles

I might be suspicious of the ignition switch, what fuses are staying powered up after you turn the key off?