The passenger side mirror on my '98 E300 (W210) was flopping in the wind after I came a little too close to the oversized trash can in the garage last week and bumped it as I was pulling in. The spring snapped off of a hook which is molded into the pot metal frame and from what I understand this is VERY common and VERY expensive as it usually requires a whole new mirror assembly. Not to shy away from a challege I took on the task of coming up with a repair for this. I decided to document this process, unfortunately I did not take photos but will do my best to describe it in enough detail that those who are mechanically inclined will be able to do it as well.

First you need to pop the mirror-glass off of the adjuster platform. I started at the bottom and pulled up and it popped off, then the wires unplug for the heating element and you can set the mirror-glass aside.

I proceeded to disassemble the entire mirror assembly to get the metal frame out of the plastic housing (there is a wire bail that holds it in, just pry the ends up and the whole plastic housing slides off). Then you will see the area where the spring used to attach to the metal frame.

On mine the hook was bent back at 90 degrees. I snapped it off trying to straighten it out. It left a nice semi-circular channel in the frame which I was able to make a post assembly to reattach the spring to.

To follow my fix you will need one #8 X 1/2" machine screw, two #8 nuts and 2 #8 flat washers. First, take the machine screw and put the two washers on it and one nut to hold them on. Now, sandwich the semicricular channel with the washers and let the post of the machine screw protrude to the front of the mirror frame (as referenced by the front of the car, but the back of the mirror) and tighten the nut down until it is really tight. This makes the "post".

Then, take the second nut and loosely start it on the end of the machine screw. Now you can hook the spring between the two nuts and tighten the outer nut. I actually found it easier to remount the frame on the car, attach the spring first to the base of the frame (which is screwed to the car) and then stretch it to snap over the new post and then tighten down the outer nut. I tried to flex it back and forth several times and it held fine during all my tests...I think it is even stronger than the original design (what wouldn't be though?).

Once this is done, slip the plastic cover back on and it snaps into position and replace the mirror glass and viola, you are done and saved $400+!

Good luck.

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Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz

Reminds me of the suggested use of small strips of aluminun beer can as shims in the handlebar clamps of a BMW motorcycle as described in "Zen and the Art of Mororcycle Maintenance" (Need to be of college-age in the 60's). Unfortunately the BMW owner in the story would not use such a common and non-original material in his machine; so his problem continued. I have, and know others on this board have, performed repairs with common materials as you described. Good work, and thanks for the memories.

regards,
mark

Nice work Marty. I did a similar fix on the same mirror a few years back, using a fabricated aluminum post and some pop rivets.
I think you'd agree that the key to doing this kind of job is to put yourself in the position of the designer/constructor of the original part, which means having a thorough understanding of the function of each piece in the assembly. A vivid imagination helps too. There is almost always more than one way to achieve the same functional objective, and oftentimes, your own solution will be better than the factory solution because you have the advantage of no constraints on time or money to build a better part. Never mind that it's a 'fix', it's the end result that counts!

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1986 560SL
2002 Toyota Camry
1993 Lexus

Thanks for your posting, it was exactly the same problem I have. So how did you have to have the mirror glass removed in order to attach/re-attache the mirror housing to the car?

I'm hesitant to just pull up on the bottom of the glass for fear of breaking it.

Not sure whose post you are referring to, but this is the way MB instructs to remove the glass on the W126. I re-read some old threads on this, and it seems other mirrors (90's up models?) have a different design, so I'm posting this anyway for info....
Added 01/16/06: It appears that these mirrors are quite different on the W210.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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1986 560SL
2002 Toyota Camry
1993 Lexus

As I recall, the mirror glass on the W210 has a wire retainer along the top edge and the bottom edge pops into the frame, that's why I said you need to start at the bottom. I like the idea of using a tongue depressor to pry the mirror away but work along the bottom edge. Once it comes free then push the mirror up to remove the wire from the top of the frame.

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Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz

After a quick dance with a huge mailbox, my right side passenger mirror called it quits. Have the entire new mirror assemby but am struggling on how to remove the frickin plastic cover. Before I break the whole thing off, can someone maybe point me to a thread on this? My searches turned up this for the 210. I have a 99 C43. Appreciate any replies.

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Barker

Figured it out. Two metal clips exposed when pulling the mirror back.
Squeezing the two of them, let her loose. What a snap once you know the trick.Install complete.

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Barker

I have a C230 with a loose right door mirror itself - the housing is fine. Did you or could you take a picture of the clips you mention. I need to get this mirror from flapping in the wind.

Any other help would be appreciated.

sure. Will try to post a pic for you tonight; it might be late tho.

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Barker

Forgive my poor camera skills, but here's an attempt to help. I was able to remove the cover by the following steps:
1> Push mirror toward *front* of car
2> With a firm grip on the mirror (the spring is very tight so be careful),
locate the "metal band" that is oval and has a very small clip nearest the
apex of the band. See pic below.

At the very bottom of this pic is the tiny metal square tab that all you need to do is push forward to loosen the entire oval metal band. Be ready to let the entire housing return to it's "normal" position once loose. The cover should slide right off once that's loose.

3> To re install the cover, gently slide it back over the arm assembly until
you hear the two metal clips click and catch the plastic cover. See below for image of backside showing clips:


Hope this was helpful.

barkford

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Barker

Actually the problem with my loose mirror glass was caused by one of the little white plastic poppets that snaps in to the back, of mirror. Had my indy take mirror housing off and bingo there it was.

Thanks again!

This was a very useful post. I was able to repair the same problem in the original post with very little problem.

I did find a couple of things that made it easier.

1. use a longer screw to make it easier to pull the spring over. I tried the smaller screw, but could not get the nut started with the spring on the bolt. I ended up using a longer bolt then wrenched the spring down the bolt as I tightened. I then used my dremel to cut the bolt down to size so the unit would fit back in the housing - making it a much easier installation.

2. I coated the newly created bolt assembly with gorilla glue for added strength, holding power and longevity.

Happy motoring -

www.customclothiers.cc

Good added tips! I did mine nearly a year ago when I posted the original fix and it is still fine...even going through those car washes that bend and flex the mirrors with their giant spinning brushes.

Happy motoring.

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Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz

Hi,

Were the two nuts on the same side of the semit circular channel or were they on opposite sides of the channel. It appears that they were on the same side and spring in between the two but you said in your posting that you first put the first nut on the screw and so it is not very clear if the first nut was on other side of the channel.
Also the washers are on the opposite side of the spring right - meaning if the spring is on one side of the channel the washers are on the other - or one washer is on each side.