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  #1  
Old 10-24-2005, 08:50 PM
sLoweredK300e's Avatar
Euro Tech
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 168
Oil drain plug stuck, too simple, I know

Ok, put the car on ramps after a 5 mile drive to get he oil warmed up. Using a 12mm wrench I attempted to loosen the drain plug. was too much for my massive arms so I kicked it a little. I was surprised to see that I had twisted the metal.

Any way, long story short, I could not even use a chizzle and hammer to make it turn. The metal is just too soft. What can I do? I do not really want drive a new hole, but I will if I have too.
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  #2  
Old 10-24-2005, 09:14 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
dieselarchitect
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Lafayette Indiana
Posts: 34,237
you twisted the

PAN MATERIAL? wow! i never would have guessed that is possible. i guess that is why they put a dinky 12mm head on the bolt. pb blaster might help.

other than that i guess you might need to buy a pan. sorry.

tom w
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..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #3  
Old 10-24-2005, 10:50 PM
sLoweredK300e's Avatar
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I twisted the bolt head. not the pan
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  #4  
Old 10-24-2005, 11:12 PM
Moneypit SEL's Avatar
Now what?
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: SE PA
Posts: 525
Topsider.

That is all.
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  #5  
Old 10-24-2005, 11:46 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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ok

pb blaster is still the ticket. get a new plug lined up too. then with a good soaking, try the chisel again on the edge, or vise grips.

and remember not to use your feet any more. there is a reason the wrenches are made to fit hands. more control.

good luck.

tom w
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #6  
Old 10-25-2005, 01:04 AM
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Location: Seattle WA
Posts: 82
They make those tools to go on the striped head and you tap them on and the more you try to loosin the bolt the more it digs into the head. They work real nice.

I think Sears sells an asortment for those who can't get things off the tool trucks.
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  #7  
Old 10-25-2005, 08:30 AM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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sorry

but what means "cant get things off the tool trucks?"

tom w
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #8  
Old 10-25-2005, 08:44 AM
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I think he means the tool trucks like Snap-On or Matco that regularly deliver tools to shops.

You could very carefully use an air hammer with a dull bit chisel on one corner of the bolt to cause it to rotate and break free after soaking with PB Blaster.

Good luck
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  #9  
Old 10-25-2005, 09:27 AM
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Another approach if the bolt is very rounded would be to grind a notch in the side of the bolt to create a flat with a die grinder or Dremel tool and carefully use a blunt punch in the air hammer to rotate. Try a while and then re-spray with PB Blaster. The vibration helps with difficult fastener removal and also allows the penetrate to flow better.

Over-torque can cause this problem so I always use a torque wrench when replacing the oil plugs, and I make sure the pan is not hot when replacing the plug.

Regards
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  #10  
Old 10-25-2005, 10:28 AM
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An alternative is to find a nut with a hole that will fit over what is left of the plug and have a muffler shop weld it to the remaining shaft. When it cools you can remove the plug easily.
Tim
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  #11  
Old 10-25-2005, 04:50 PM
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drain bolt stuck

After soadking with penetating oil for a few housr, try regular "monkey" wrench (plumbers) on either remaining stub or prefereable on round section of drain bolt, this should give you plenty of leverage to remove bolt. good luck!
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  #12  
Old 10-25-2005, 07:33 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
dieselarchitect
 
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Location: Lafayette Indiana
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he means

a pipe wrench with toothed jaws, i think.

although it seems silly, i think technically, a monkey wrench has straight smooth jaws.

tom w
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #13  
Old 10-26-2005, 09:14 AM
sLoweredK300e's Avatar
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Thanks for the discusion guys. I actually already filled the sides for a new grip surface, and used visgrips and a chisel. The only thing I have not done is to soak with PB.

The guy that changed the oil last is a DATech (DUMB ASS).

I am taking it to the best MB tech in teh world, Terry Van. He will hook me up.

IF it comes to it I will do the topsider on it.
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  #14  
Old 10-26-2005, 09:22 AM
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Location: Virginia
Posts: 19
Use an "Easy out"

A few years ago I had a similar problem. I ended up rounding off the flats of the plug head. I finally got the plug out by using a screw extractor or "easy out".
You drill a (concentric) hole into the plug and screw the extractor (which has a left hand thread) into the hole. Continue turning and the plug should come out.
The plug is approx 30mm long (Including the head) so there's plenty of material for you to drill into.
I understand that the drain plugs are a soft magnetic material.
Good Luck
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  #15  
Old 10-26-2005, 10:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sLoweredK300e
The only thing I have not done is to soak with PB.
PB Blaster is a great product -- I use it religiously -- but I doubt it will help in this situation. What PB does exceptionally well is free-up rusted, corroded fasteners. Yours is neither rusted nor corroded... it's simply over-tightened (and grossly so). The treads on your drain plug are already clean and well lubricated, so a penetrating fluid is not going to help.

Just my 2 cents... arguably worth that.

Jeff Pierce
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