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  #1  
Old 11-18-2005, 03:00 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 7
Seeking advice on half-shaft replacement on 240D-W115-1976-Auto

Hi All,

I recently purchased a 76 240D-W115-auto. The mechanic installing new tires discovered a torn right inner CV boot. The left side CV boots are cracked and about to split. This shop wants $1000 to change the boots and $1400 to install rebuilt axles.

I called around to a few auto parts places and I can get rebuilt half shafts for $78. My problem is that I can't find any auto repair places to install parts I purchase. So I've been giving very serious thought to installing rebuilt axle shafts on my own.

So is replacing an axle shaft a huge pain in the ass? The procedure I'm planning on attempting is as follows:

1) jack/block up car
2) remove tire
3) remove brake caliper by removing the two 19mm bolts on the back of caliper
4) remove small bolt on end of wheelshaft and remove rotor
5) somehow remove axle shaft from remaining wheel assembly
6) drain differential
7) remove rubber differential mount
8) open differential case and look for axle retaining clip and remove
9) pull out axle shaft from differential

The step's I'm most concerned with are #'s 5,8,& 9.
Concering step #5- I'm not sure what exactly I'm looking for or the torque involved to get the axle shaft out of the wheel.

Concerning step #8 - I'm sure something has to hold the axle shaft in the differential, I'm not sure if a special tool is required to remove.

Concerning step #9 - I'm not sure how much torque is required to remove.

I would be grateful if someone could give me a few pointers before I attempted this project. I'd really hate to get things torn down and realize I need special tools to get the axle shafts out.

Kind Regards,

240Dork

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  #2  
Old 11-18-2005, 05:09 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,141
It's a pretty straight fwd job. I can do a pair in 2-3 hrs, but many state they spend 6-8 hrs the first time.

Let's see- no need to remove the caliper.

The bolt that retains the axle is inside the hub. You can see it with the wheel removed in the center. There have been 2 different sizes.. This also can give you probems as your replacements could be- 2 different sizes!

$1400 sounds like is should be factory new axles- lobro/gkn. Figure $300 labor, so $550 per axle list price- yea that's in the ball park.

Circlip holds the axles in the diff. There maybe shims behind them, keep track of them if they are there- and put them back.

Do you have a 14mm drain removal/installation allen wrench? I'd suggest a few direct blows to the fill plug and make sure it moves..

To snake the axle out- it depends on the height of the diff... you'll be supporting it with a jack when the rear-cover is removed. All pretty easy.

Unless you really enjoy doing this twice, I'd suggest the Lobro/GKN axlesa dn avoid the tempting rebuild aftermarket axles. I think for a W123 that would be about $320 each, but a vendor might give you a pair price. Rebuilds tend to have life-time warrentees... but it's not fun replacing them at regular intervals.

This would be the only easy time to replace the axle seals in the diff.

Michael
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  #3  
Old 11-18-2005, 05:56 PM
RAYMOND485
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: CALIF
Posts: 508
Simi Axles

1984 300d Turbo
Take The Top Nuts Off The Shocks To Lower The Wheel Down And
Jack The Diff All The Way Up, Pull Axle On Wheel First Than Diff
6-8 Hrs First Time Diy And Use New Axles $325.00 Done Add New Shocks
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  #4  
Old 11-18-2005, 06:13 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 7
Thanks for the info!!

Guys,

Thanks for the tips on getting the axles out, it sounds like a good time to do diffy seals and put in shocks!! Glad to know I don't have to mess with the calipers. Providing my own labor, I can put better quality parts back into the ole beastie and hopefully, nevermore shall I have to go through this pain.

I'm off to the auto parts store and I'll start on the project. Thanks again for all of your assistance.

Best Regards,

240Dork
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  #5  
Old 11-18-2005, 07:35 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 7
Is a 4 wheel alignment necessary after replacing rear shocks?

SamIAM & Ray,

It just occured to me, if I replace the shocks or even remove the topmost shock bolts; I'll need to see a professional for a 4-wheel alignment?

There is no way I can "eyeball" the camber, caster and all that other alignment mumbo-jumbo.

Many thanks in advance,....
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  #6  
Old 11-18-2005, 10:03 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
dieselarchitect
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Lafayette Indiana
Posts: 35,562
there

are no adjustments to the rear of a benz.

on the original poster, are you sure the half shafts need replacing? the price quoted is not the price an honest shop would charge. the boots on the half shafts are quite thick and can have a lot of superficial cracks and not leak. if they are not leaking, no worries. as long as the shafts are not loose.

tom w
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..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #7  
Old 11-18-2005, 11:04 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Battle Ground, WA
Posts: 576
Listen to Samiam!!

Hi there,
I did this exact same job on my '82 300D/4.3 a couple weeks ago, and it is a very straightforward process. The only thing I had trouble with was that I could NOT remove the fill plug no matter what I did! I eventually removed the cover, drilled and tapped another hole for a 1/4" pipe plug and used that one to fill the differential. On my vehicle, the outer axle and inner axle shafts came out easily after lowering the differential and positioning it to the other side of the car as far as it would go. The inner shaft actually came out easier than the outer shaft, as it was very well lubed, while the outer shaft splines were a bit dry. I had access to a car lift and transmission jack, which greatly simplified the job. The same boot was split on my car, all the other ones looked fine.

Regards,
Richard Wooldridge
'82 300D/4.3L Astro V6 engine & Trans.
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  #8  
Old 11-19-2005, 02:06 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,141
I'll reiterate,

Hit the fill plug squarely with a 1 to 2 lb ball peen hammer. One or two good wacks and it will easily comeout. The hit will break the bond of time and chemcial... what ever- it works.


Michael
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83 300d
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  #9  
Old 11-20-2005, 08:29 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 7
Half shaft replacement on 240D

Gents,

I've stopped for the evening on replacing the axle shafts. So far, I've got the diffy drained, unmounted, and opened. The upper shock bolts are loosend and the long bolt holds the wheel to the shaft has been removed. Its taken about 6 hrs for me to get this far. The serious business is about to begin...

Just one quick question.... whats the best way to get the circle lock clips off the axle shaft inside the differential? The ends of the circle clip are clearly visible and I've tried to pop it off using a screwdriver combined with a rubber mallet.

Just one more thing.... my 240 D seems to have some kind of torsion bar, should I just unbolt the bar from the wheel linkage assembly or should I not mess around with this?

Many thanks,

Butch
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  #10  
Old 11-29-2005, 12:02 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Bay area, California
Posts: 41
Unbolt the torsion bars from the wheel side mounts.

Use a needle nose vise-grip or stiff wire hook to pull out the retaining clip.
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  #11  
Old 11-29-2005, 09:22 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,141
I lost an axle out of town once..

Used a cotter pin puller (90 degree tool with a point) to pull the C-clip. The clip has a tab with a hole. You can grab the tab with needle nose vice grips or.. Don't loose the clip! They can fly off and searching the shop floor is a pain! Goes double for installation=0)


Michael
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66 Chevy Corsa
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  #12  
Old 11-29-2005, 09:53 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 7
Progress report

Well folks,

My old hoopty is almost back together. Two new axle shafts, differential seals, and rear shocks. The most difficult part for me was getting the c-clips off/in the axle. I wound up modifying a really poor quality pair of needle nose pliers to remove the c-clips. I turned each needle tip back in a curve; all I had to do is snake the tip through the c-clip and pull---very hard. Seems easy but for me is very tough flat on my back, on wheeled creeper with limited traction.

I am in the process of reassmbly now... whomever suggested removing the upper shock bolts, Thanks... it gave me all the clearance I needed to get the shafts in/out it was easy.... Thanks.

All I need to do now is put the C-clips back in and seal up the differential. I've got a good pair of needle nose pliers to reinsert, but I'm looking around my shop for a copper water line I can cut a three in section off and fashion into a reinsertion tool. My thinking is it would be easier to put the c-clip in slots cut lengthwise into the pipe, to hold clip steady, and then use my trusty rubber mallet to bash the c-clips back into the axle groove. Lemme know if I can save all this bother and run to autozone or the like to pick up a c-clip insertion tool...

Thanks !

Butch
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  #13  
Old 11-30-2005, 10:25 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,141
I'd use a pair of needle-nose vice grips.

I've never seen one take a hammer to install. Just push, maybe off the creeper would help? Sounds like your making good progress.

Michael

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83 300d
01 vw A4 TDI
66 Chevy Corsa
68 GMC V6 w/oD
86 300E
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