|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Lock De-icer ?
Winter is coming and soon we'll have freezing temperatures. What would you use to prevent frozen locks? Just any lock de-icer you can buy from auto stores, or there're specific brands/types suitable for Mercedes? Thank you.
|
#2
|
||||
|
||||
The last car I owned that had this problem was a 1963 Ford Falcon. Anyhow, lock de-icer is used after your locks are frozen. If you feel compelled to lube your locks in advance of winter, however, use a dry graphite lube.
__________________
'01 SLK320, '79 450SL & '01 C320 -- What? 3 Mercedes? I am DEFINITELY crazy!!! |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Maybe it's my misconception but I thought those de-icer sprays can be used as a pre-cautionary measure.
Anyway, is the dry graphite lube in spray can format? Or powder, in which case how to deliver it to the lock mechanism? Thanks again for the advice. |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
Nowadays, you can find dry lube in a spray can. I picked up a can at Lowes on clearance a couple of years back -- enough to last me 25 years!!!
__________________
'01 SLK320, '79 450SL & '01 C320 -- What? 3 Mercedes? I am DEFINITELY crazy!!! |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
I had frozen lock problems on many of my late model vehicles that I owned when I resided in states with cold winters (and no keyless entry).
The main issue was frequent car washing to keep the salt at bay, which eventually removed the lubing that had been done...locks were fine during the day, but by nightfall, moisture trapped in the hidden crevices created havoc. But just as previously posted, lock de-icer is designed to thaw out the moisture, so it only serves its purpose when you are in a jam.
__________________
2009 ML350 (106K) - Family vehicle 2001 CLK430 Cabriolet (80K) - Wife's car 2005 BMW 645CI (138K) - My daily driver 2016 Mustang (32K) - Daughter's car |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
I always had good luck with good old WD-40. But you don't need so spray much. And then it gets on your key. So dry lube would be better in that respect. But the WD-40 does work well if you already have some.
Mike
__________________
1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine) 1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow) Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
St. Louis spends a good portion of winter sitting at below freezing, except for 10 minute periods of 33F during the middle of the day. This means it snows, and gets on your car. Then it melts a tiny bit during the day, permeates through the lock, and then refreezes. You can keep deicing, but each day, new water will come back into the lock, and then refreeze. Maddening. I spent a few weeks last winter with a small propane torch in my bag. I'd whip it out, blast the lock for a few seconds (keeping the actual flame tip off the lock, just hitting it with the hot air), and it would open right up.
Annoying, but it did work. I couldn't find any reliable way to prevent it from happening... peace, sam
__________________
"That f***in' biodiesel is makin' me hungry." 1982 300TD Astral Silver w/ 250k (BIO BNZ) 2001 Aprilia SR50 Corsa Red w/ 5.5k (>100 MPG) |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Next time, use a cigarette lighter, heat the key, insert it in the lock, wait 5 seconds & unlock the door.
__________________
2007 C 230 Sport. |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Bought the graphite lube
OK, I've picked up a spray can of dry graphite lube from Home Depot for about $10.
The label says it is good for extreme temperatures, -73 C to +538 C ! I checked out other types of sprayable lube while I was there, like silicone and WD40, but these don't seem to give out an effective temperature range. So looks like the graphite lube is the one to use. And like page62 says, this can will probably last me 25 years too ! Thanks again guys for all advice given. |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Impala,
Don't be surprised if the gaphite does not work. It isn't the lubircant on the lock tumblers that freezes, but the water that finds its way in. The alcohol based de-icers work pretty well. Or as another advised: heat your key with a cheap butane cigarette lighter. regards, Mark |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
kramlavud, thanks for that.
So looks like I need 2 products... the graphite to lube the lock tumbler mechanism, and another to displace the water (or minimize its build-up) which I probably need to spray a little from time to time. Where I live, it goes down to about -10 C / 15 F the coldest, so hopefully with the above I don't need to be heating up the key. |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
Do not use lock de icers cause they clocg up your tumblers.What you should get is a good penintrating oil and spray in ity.wd40 in not a good one.Go to a automotive store and get a good one from there.Once ytou sprayed it in there use the key back and forth several times..I would reaply it whenever it gets cold.This will help it from feezing and also kepps the tumblers lubed up
|
#13
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Relax. Don't worry about the problem until it actually happens. Until then, here's a disco smiley!
__________________
'01 SLK320, '79 450SL & '01 C320 -- What? 3 Mercedes? I am DEFINITELY crazy!!! |
#14
|
|||
|
|||
Who unlocks their doors with a key?
__________________
2007 C 230 Sport. |
Bookmarks |
|
|