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  #16  
Old 12-04-2005, 01:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86560SEL
Definitely a timing chain/tensioner. 263K miles - if it has not been changed, it is probably only a matter of time until "SNAP"!
Definitely.

The chains rarely snap, the issue is the plastic guides. I can’t believe she’s gone that long w/o a chain/guide replacement. If the plastic guides fail the chain jumps, destroys the valve train, and puts a nice hole in the valve cover. The failed guides can also break apart and fall in the sump. Not good.

The rough idle/stumble could be a vacuum or air leak. Check in the engine bay for broken, brittle, or loose vacuum lines. Check also for air leaks. Engines like ours use Bosch mechanical fuel injection/CIS, engine speed is increased with airflow, not an increase in fuel as with a carbed engine or electronic fuel injection. If too much air gets into the engine it will run rough at low speeds and at idle.

Replace all the fuses with brass/copper alloy fuses before you attempt to repair any electrical problems such as the window. Do not expect much in the way of fuel mileage, the issue is more of car weight rather then engine size.

These are the last of the big, beautiful, reliable, old school S Class cars. Enjoy.

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  #17  
Old 12-04-2005, 09:10 AM
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ditto above

dont start fooling around with the fuel injection system. ( i have done it before and it is usually not the problem) at least until after you check all vac connections for leaks.

good luck. looks like a nice car.

tom w
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  #18  
Old 12-04-2005, 09:49 AM
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Ditto on changing all the fuses. Phil sells the copper ones in blister packs dirt cheap. After I changed all mine and cleaned the connections everything seemed to work better.
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  #19  
Old 12-04-2005, 02:47 PM
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Thanks. I will do that. I am going to check things out as I have time and weather permits.

I did get out a little while ago and take some photos. Low quality, but at least I got some. The paint on the hood, top and trunk is more dull than I thought it was, but I really do not mind. I cannot wait to get it registered and insured so I can start driving it.

Thanks again for the help.

Here are the photos (its dirty too) the drive here was quite rainy.
Attached Thumbnails
Engine power on a 380SE ?  Good?  Also "coolant" level question-img00002.jpg   Engine power on a 380SE ?  Good?  Also "coolant" level question-img00003.jpg  

Last edited by 86560SEL; 12-20-2005 at 10:10 PM.
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  #20  
Old 12-04-2005, 05:10 PM
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Here are some more I took a little later, including interior. I forgot to take any of the front interior, but it looks like the rear.

About the license plate. I collect old license plates. Ironically, I had a set that expired October 1985. The car was made in October of 1984. It is a Texas plate though. Too bad I do not have an "October 1985 Tennessee" plate, but this one will work.

I will take the rear off obviously when I get my plates, but I thought I would stick this one on to take the photo.

I drove the car down the road and it seems to do fine. Power will be very adequate for me.

Thanks again for all of the replies.
Attached Thumbnails
Engine power on a 380SE ?  Good?  Also "coolant" level question-img00012.jpg   Engine power on a 380SE ?  Good?  Also "coolant" level question-85380se-10.jpg   Engine power on a 380SE ?  Good?  Also "coolant" level question-img00010.jpg   Engine power on a 380SE ?  Good?  Also "coolant" level question-85380se-11.jpg  
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  #21  
Old 12-04-2005, 07:45 PM
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Wow not bad at all for $1k!

The paint on these cars can be brought back. Buff the heck out of it, clay bars do wonders as well.
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  #22  
Old 12-04-2005, 08:20 PM
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Thanks Hattaras. I will try that on the paint. Heck, if it don't work, I may paint it.

I guess first on the list is a new chain/tensioner. I looked through the glove box for some records, hopefully to find something telling me that the timing chain/tensioner was changed, but none were there. I would like to think since it has 263K that it has been changed, but I would be crazy for taking the risk I suppose by not changing it out. The car had the same owner from 1985-2000, then the guy I bought it from had it from 2000-until yesterday. He said he never thought to ask about the timing chain. He said the ONLY thing he done to the car other than oil changes every 3K was a fuel pump about 3 years ago. He also said he run regular gas in it.
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  #23  
Old 12-04-2005, 08:39 PM
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Since the po seemed to be trying to run it into the ground I would do a major service on it asap. Ie change all the fluids and filters.

At 236k you should also check and repack the wheel bearings.
Inspect the front flex disc for cracks or warping.
Shocks may be leaking as well

I'd run whatever octane the manual calls for.
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  #24  
Old 12-04-2005, 10:13 PM
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Thanks. I will do that. I do not even know what the "flex disc" is, I have to do some searching here. Thanks!

BTW - make that 263K, rather than 236K.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hatterasguy
Since the po seemed to be trying to run it into the ground I would do a major service on it asap. Ie change all the fluids and filters.

At 236k you should also check and repack the wheel bearings.
Inspect the front flex disc for cracks or warping.
Shocks may be leaking as well

I'd run whatever octane the manual calls for.
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  #25  
Old 12-05-2005, 10:26 AM
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Sounds like you found a deal.

I'ved owned two '85 380SE's. One was a euro car that had plenty of power. The US car was a slug by comparison. It was totalled earlier this yr. I would have been killed if I were in a Honda. A large SUV failed to stop and T-boned my drivers side.
Lots of good parts (I kept it) if you should need any parts.

I get around 21MPG from the euro. US car was less...maybe 18.

Keep the oil changed or your cams will be very unhappy.

Nice car for $1K even if you have to spend alittle.
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  #26  
Old 12-11-2005, 01:30 AM
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Thanks Dan. In fact, as you know, I have already been in touch about the manuals.

To update about the coolant question, it was fine.

Yeah, that oil change is next on my list!

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