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  #1  
Old 12-05-2005, 12:14 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 11
sporatic power loss

My 86 300e is having acceleration problems.
Not always but often when taking off from a stop it will just creep along as though I haven't pushed the peddle. I can let off and re-depress the peddle a couple of times and then it will suddenly take off. My wife almost got t-boned today while turning left cause it just wouldn't giddy up.
Thanks for your help.

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  #2  
Old 12-05-2005, 03:54 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: France
Posts: 490
I have the same problem with my car, I am interested in any ideas
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Keep us posted especially if your problem is solved
Present cars:
My car: E-class 420CDI, 2008, W211, V8, 180 000km

Wife's one: C-class 220CDI Sport Coupé, Euro, 2002, W203. 345 000km

Son's one: GLK class 220CDI, 2009, W204

Sold E class 260E, W124, 1988 beloved car sold after 489 000 kilometres of reliable services (engine M103, clutch and 5 speed manual gear box all original).

E-class, W210 320CDI, 2000[/B], 225 000km, Sold
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  #3  
Old 12-05-2005, 04:44 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Lakeville, MN
Posts: 25
'91 300se

I have a similar problem with my 91 300SE. Only on ocassion. It's like the accelerator pedal is not connected. I've also noticed that if I hold the pedal down it will eventually downshift and then accelerate briskly. I've done a lot of reading and many people have/are experiencing this. From what I can tell there is no silver bullet to fix it. It is dangerous, causes you to lose trust in the car, and worst of all it makes you envy your neighbors driving the the ever reliable Toyota's and Honda's.....
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  #4  
Old 12-05-2005, 10:25 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 11
86 300e power loss

Yea thats a good definition. It does feel like the gas pedal is not connected or connected with a weak rubber band. If I give it three quarter throttle and then back off sometimes it will get going but not in time to get rear ended or t-boned. I don't need my wife or daughter to be crash test dummies.
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  #5  
Old 04-02-2006, 12:05 PM
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Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 1
Come on Tech's,jump in here

My son's 86 300E is having the same problem as you have described! Ive searched and read lots of threads on this problem but yet to find an answer. Come on Tech's,jump in here and help us out with a fix. Thanks in advance,CJ
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  #6  
Old 04-02-2006, 07:52 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 56
I had what I would call MAJOR hesitation problems on my 1991 300SE. This was AFTER new injectors, cap and rotor, plugs, plug wires, lots of injector cleaner and carbon cleaner, new fuel filter etc.

Always, once the car was warm, there was a HUGE hesitation (all most a stall) on startup. My trusted MBZ mechanic thought it was a combination of carbon build up & a weak fuel distributor. DID NOT want to replace the fuel distributor at $1000 plus. This is for a Bosch rebuild (do NOT buy a $300 rebuild).

I saw an idle control valve ICV on Ebay brand new for only $120 inc shipping.
So I took a chance. Immediately upon installation, which was easy, there was a HUGE improvement. Probably a 90% improvement. So this is my story. I would first try injector cleaner and carbon cleaner, available at all import auto stores. Make sure your spark plugs are good and the right OEM type, before you spend any big money. The ICV is around $200 plus. Good luck, I do not know if my car was a fluke, but I am glad I did not have to buy a fuel distributor.

PS my 300SE had 140,000 miles, never apart
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1994 E320 Cabriolet
1992 300CE (Sold)
1991 300SE (Sold)
1986 560SEL (Sold)
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  #7  
Old 04-02-2006, 08:17 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Gainesville FL
Posts: 6,844
Quote:
Originally Posted by microtoad
I have a similar problem with my 91 300SE. Only on ocassion. It's like the accelerator pedal is not connected. I've also noticed that if I hold the pedal down it will eventually downshift and then accelerate briskly. I've done a lot of reading and many people have/are experiencing this. From what I can tell there is no silver bullet to fix it. It is dangerous, causes you to lose trust in the car, and worst of all it makes you envy your neighbors driving the the ever reliable Toyota's and Honda's.....
Gee, the Honda I fixed last week with this problem was due to a shorted coil. Do you suppose he was envious of all the Fords and Chevies that still ran. Is it only Honda and Toyo owners that have sense enough to get professional help. Of course we didn't throw a bunch of parts at it, we tested it as if this was a science and only replaced the single defective part.

I think you should buy a Toyota and cut it in little pieces and feed it to your MB, maybe it could cause some gene therapy.
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Continental Imports
Gainesville FL
Bosch Master, ASE Master, L1
33 years MB technician
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  #8  
Old 04-02-2006, 10:40 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 56
Steve is 100% correct.

I got lucky and replaced a part that was 15 years old and was common knowledge that it would not last forever. The only reason I bought the part was that I basically bought it for half price. I do love a bargain. My problem was a constant one, not an intermitant one.
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1994 E320 Cabriolet
1992 300CE (Sold)
1991 300SE (Sold)
1986 560SEL (Sold)
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  #9  
Old 04-03-2006, 02:11 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Wilmington, NC
Posts: 39
I've got the same problem in my 87 300E. I notice that it only happens after the engine has warmed up. I've replaced: Cap, rotor, plugs, wires, injectors, OVP relay. (no luck.)

I spoke to a mechanic recently, he suggested 2 things. First, disconnect the O2 sensor, and see if it still happens, if that fixes the problem, get a new O2 sensor. the other thing he suggested was to remove the air cleaner, and locate the "EHA Valve" and see if there is any fuel leaking. I forget what EHA stands for, but it has to do with the fuel flow or distribution.

Don't know if any of this helps, I hope to work on this issue this week, if one of these works, I'll let y'all know. This seems to be a common problem, and very frusterating to isolate.
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  #10  
Old 04-08-2006, 06:51 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Wilmington, NC
Posts: 39
Update on this problem: I removed the air filter housing and discovered the E.H.A. valve moist with gasoline. I ordered the valve through a local repair shop (price comparable to online, around $245 ) and should be here Monday, will be VERY happy if this fixes the problem with the hesitation I'll let you know if it works

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