My rear brake pads were sticking pretty badly so I figured I needed a new master cylinder after doing some reading of these threads... So i took it to a shop and this is what they told me

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2004 CLK500
2000 S500

to get a second opinion. what is the invoice for? changing rear pads or just doing a diagnosis?

it seems unlikely that all that needs doing. new calipers rotors and pads? it says nothing about repairing the abs. it looks like they say the abs is malfuntioning.

more info please.

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

1984 300d Turbo 135
This Work I Have Done On The 300d It Is A Diy Job May Be 4 Hrs Get
Your Parts From This Site Or Auto-zone

they said that they would have to replace all these parts and THEN retest the brake system to see if it is indeed the ABS.

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2004 CLK500
2000 S500

You are getting ripped off.

Why would you need to replace rotors and calipers on the rear? If the calipers are "locking up" due to the ABS system (doubtful), this cannot possibly cause the calipers and rotors to need replacement.

Find another mechanic, pronto.

what were the symptoms of your brake pads sticking? noise, odor, smoke, rear wheels burning hot after a drive.

there was a post here not to long ago about the single rear pin calipers on C230's being sticky I wonder if your C260 had the single pin rear caliper.

is the shop a Mercedes specialist?

Yeah, these cowboys are looking to make a boat payment from you...get outta there. Just the fact that they mention removing drums on a car with rear disk brakes make me wonder what the hell they are talking about?

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Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz

They have about 3 locations in the Dallas area and claim to be specialized in European Cars, especially Mercedes and BMW. My rear brakes starting sticking when the temp. in dallas dipped to 15 degrees. Every so often the pads are so bad that it wont go unless i give it some gas. It only happens after driving for a while. It was fine on my way home from the shop which leads me to beleive that the problem may have been due to the extreme cold but I don't drive that much to start with.

I don't understand how the ABS could fail without a light coming on at least, which makes me think its something simple. I am going to drive it for a few days and see what happens. If it is something huge I think I am going to chalk it up as a loss and go lease a new 3 series.

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2004 CLK500
2000 S500

I'm assuming that by "sticking" we're talking about it's as though the rear brakes are being applied when they're not. If that's the case, it's important to determine if both sides are affected or just one.


If BOTH sides begin to "stick" after the car has been driven for awhile, there's a good chance that the master cylinder is the cause of the problem. I've seen this happen on many older MB's including 123's, 124's, and 126's. If the car is driven in this condition for too long(it usually is, due to the fact that by the time the driver knows something's wrong, it's too late)the rear pads and rotors are toast. Most professionals would recommend replacing the calipers as well, since the excessive heat probably damaged the internal seals. Some people will scream rip-off, but most shops won't guarantee the repair unless it's done this way. I know it sounds like throwing parts at the problem, but I've seen people try to save money only to end up spending more to fix it correctly the second time. Of course, a good DIYER' working on their own car could afford to try the less expensive option, and then pay careful attention for any signs of trouble.


If only one side is hung up, the problem could be a faulty brake hose. Over time they can deteriorate internally and partially collapse. When the brakes are applied, the fluid is FORCED through the restriction, but when the pedal is released the fluid can't return, resulting in pressure still being applied. Again, the driver usually doesn't know there's a problem until the damage is done.


In any case, find a shop you can trust, and follow their recommendation. Remember, one of the reasons you pay $75-$105/HR is to let THEM worry about it, not YOU.

Sticking rear brakes was a common enough failure on older Benz models. My 123 went this way. The rear brakes remained applied during a 35 mile highway drive. By the time my wife arrived home the brake rotors were glowing red, the brake pads were on fire, and the caliper seals had melted. So yeah, *if* your car has the same problem, then you probably do need everything they quoted.

That said, I haven't heard of this particular master cylinder failure on newer models - 124 and onward.

It could always be a restricted brake hose, but I would be surprised to see that on a 1996 model. That's rather young to have such a failure, though I guess anything is possible.

- JimY