I did a search on this and it seems to be common, but seems to be a variety of things depending upon car and other issues, so I will post a new thread.

Like I said, my transmission shifts through all gears perfectly. No harshness (except when cold it is definitely more noticable going from 1-2) and no slippage in any of the gears. My problem is that when the engine is fully warm (80*C), when I shift into "D", it slams in gear harshly. I have only driven this car three times, the first day it did not do it and on the first trip today it did not do it. Today, on my second trip out, I had to run in Sears for a couple of Christmas gifts. When I was backing out, reverse was not that harsh this time, but when I shifted into drive after I backed out, it was harsh. So hard in fact that the engine stopped. I restarted it, shifted into drive, it stalled out again- third time, it did it again. The fourth time, I had to race the engine to 1500 rpms then shift into drive to keep it from stalling. It was jerky then too obviously. I hated to do that, but that was the only way to keep it running when I shifted into gear. When I got home, I tested it again and it was still jerky, but it did not stall out that time. Needless to say the episode in Sears parking lot was very embarrasing.

I hope this is something as simple as an adjustment, because this is a old car and I really do not want to put a whole lot of money into it.

Any advice on what this could be would be greatly appreciated!

BTW- the car is a 1985 380SE.

Whats the condition of the ATF??? Clean???

When was it and the filter last changed (guess you may not know that - but if it is clean it should be OK)??

What is the level of the ATF (when warm)???

May be as simple as an adjustment - I had my trans rebuilt and have had to have it adjusted a couple of times due to hard shifting or flaring (go too far one way!!).

Start with your fluid checks - which you may have already done.

Cheers

__________________
1988 W126 420 SE

beware of fundamentalists!

Thanks. Actually, I have not checked the fluid/filter. I could not even figure out how to remove the dipstick.

I am a fool when it comes to this car.

I am heading out now to get a oil change/filter for the engine.

There is a lock mechanism under the dipstick cap, swing it up (it hinges on the dipstick cap) and then pull the dipstick out.

Cheers

__________________
1988 W126 420 SE

beware of fundamentalists!

It sound like the coefficient of friction of the B3 reverse clutches and the B2 band is too high. To aggressive.

Check the transmission fluid level and condition does it have a milky or strawberry color. If it does, the transmission is contaminated with coolant from the radiator. This type of failure if not caught early needs a rebuilt transmission and radiator.
Dirty and worn transmission fluid can also cause the condition you describe.

If there is no coolant contaminated and the fluid looks dirty and worn, no Burnt odor.

Do a transmission service, filter and drain the torque converter. Refill using MB fluid # 001 989 07 03. Drive the car for 200miles, which should be enough time for the oil to soak into the B2 band and B3 clutches.

If you still have the harsh engagement, the transmission needs rebuilding, change the B2 and B1 band also the use the updated B3 green clutches.

Engine stalling going into gear,

Look for corroded or loose wires in the neutral safety switch on the transmission. It can also be engine relayed; I am a transmission tech, so I could not tell you were to look.

Change the trans fluid before you adjust anything.

__________________
1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

Thanks.

Well, if transmission fluid is as bad as the oil was, then it DEFINITELY needs changing! If you read my post on the "Fram oil filter" topic, you can see what I am talking about. That was the dirtiest oil I have ever seen in my life! The oil filter looked original.

I did not get a chance to check the transmission fluid today, but I will on Tuesday. I am not going to drive the car tomorrow anyway.

Strange though that if it was the fluid causing it, seems like the gears would shift poorly as well, but they are fine, but what do I know about the characteristics of Mercedes? NOTHING!


Thanks. I will check that and probably have it changed ASAP anyway. I know it at least has 40,000 miles on it, because the PO bought it when it had 220,000 and it has 263,000 now.

About it stalling, I do not think it is the engine causing it, because when it does not "clunk" in gear, it does not stall.

I did think of a "trick" that seems to work- at least for now. When I shift into "D", I do not depress the brake when I shift. It does not stall then. Luckily this is an older model without the brake interlock.

Thanks again!