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#1
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Seat repair?
I'm wandering if anybody can help me with repairing my seats?
Its mainly the back seat, when I sit on it, it REALLY sinks down, and theres a crunchy feeling in the seat. Its as iff theres a band of styrafoam in the seat, that is complealy decomposed. I read diesel gients write up, but it didnt give me the info I needed unless broken springs can cause it to be "crunchy" It's the bottom section of the rear seat which is having problems. Both sides. I'll be removing the seat tonight, and setting it in my room so its easier to work with (bit nippy out right now) Can somebody help me? I have absolutly no idea as what to do, other then try and grab a seat out of the junkyard if its good... Which wont match anyways (grr) So if anybody has any tips, please let me know Thanks alot, I really appreciate it ~Nate
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95 Honda Shadow ACE 1100. 1999 Plymouth Neon Expresso. 2.4 swap, 10.5 to 1 comp, big cams. Autocross time attack vehicle! 2012 Escape, 'hunter" (5 sp 4cyl) |
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#2
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Seat Rebuild
Nate -
Do a search on the forums - lots of info available. I believe you have a 116? Famous problem - the horsehair padding has essentially crystalized - sit on it and it turns to powder. From your description, I think that's what's going on. Be advised - the original seats were not very "firm" anyway. Not expensive if you DIY - really cheap if you don't go with OEM horsehair... I hope your 'skins" (the MBTEX or leather) are in good shape - that can cost you. There's a guy in the diesel forum (Rleo I believe) that has rebuilt a bunch of his seats - do an advanced search under his posts. Keep us posted and Happy New Year! Kevin
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"Dangerous with a wrench...and not smart enough to know it" Stable (in order of acqusition): '84 500SL, 280SEL (Euros) '77 280SE. '90 560SEL '79 450SEL 6.9, '95 C280 (totalled by daughter 8/07) '81 280SL (rescued) '88 300CE '86 560SEC '95 C36 '01 CL55 DD's: '04 S500 4Matic (SWMBO) '04 F150 Crew |
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#3
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I did a search, but I couldnt find what I wanted. Was it with thoose fun noodle things?
Pads are in exelent shape, but the cloth on the bottom is ripped. I hope I dont have to have somebody redo that, but I cant stich worth crap (mabey I could practice it) Thanks alot, and its a 115/114 ~Nate
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95 Honda Shadow ACE 1100. 1999 Plymouth Neon Expresso. 2.4 swap, 10.5 to 1 comp, big cams. Autocross time attack vehicle! 2012 Escape, 'hunter" (5 sp 4cyl) |
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#4
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Been there, done that: The seat must have the "horse hair pad" that is in good condition to start with. The pad unto itself is actually remarkable. It is firm, but flexible. It takes many, many impacts yet stays firm. BTW, I don't believe it really is horse hair any more, instead is a cellulous product that is sprayed with a flexible glue.
It performs several functions; most importantly it distributes the load across the seat springs. That is why when it fails it feels like you are going into the floor boards. The pad also locates the padding above it and helps keep the assembly from shifting. If it were mine, I would find a new pad. Best, either OEM or an exact replacement. Used ones are just that, used. New ones, especially on say a driver's seat are wonderful change to any older car. The torn fabric can be dealt with in several ways, depending on how far gone. The fabric is important because it is the backing to the top seating pad and it is used to attach it to the "horse hair pad". Often if the tears are not too bad, you can use fishing line and a large needle and sew the pieces providing a bridging support. You can also sew in new patches or simply have an auto seat shop do this for you inexpensively. One car I used a hot glue gun and it worked quite well. The repairs lasted over 100k miles. As a further note, there are hog rings that hold the seating pad to the horse hair pad that are simply C rings with two sharp ends. They should be carefully removed, saved and reused when putting the seat back together. I have found the high density closed cell seating foam, low density, some density etc all are only fair substitutes for repairs. The plastic swimming pool noodles are temporary to help keep collapsed coiled seat springs from bottoming further. There is simply nothing better than a well repaired Mercedes seat. If it is a poor repair, you'll know it (your butt will tell you immediately). Haasman
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'03 E320 Wagon-Sold '95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex '93 190E 2.6-Wrecked '91 300E-Went to Ex '65 911 Coupe (#302580) |
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#5
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Mine isnt flexabal at all anymore, its "crystalized" as said before.
Thats a ton of money for me to spend on the car (brand new seats), and I cant even find thoose parts right now. A used seat is $300 +shipping, cant imagion what a new one would fetch. I did some more searching, and read that the repair isnt temporary. Via post #12 in this Seat springs--repair Nobody lists how to repair the back seat, SO if theres anybody out there who has, Id like to know howudooeredthatsnit Thanks alot ~Nate
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95 Honda Shadow ACE 1100. 1999 Plymouth Neon Expresso. 2.4 swap, 10.5 to 1 comp, big cams. Autocross time attack vehicle! 2012 Escape, 'hunter" (5 sp 4cyl) |
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#6
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repair seat bottoms
Use hog clips (any auto supply store sells kit of clips and pliers). Check your springs. possible broken. You can firm up the seat with replacement pad (foam & board cut to duplicate old cushion size) and use the clips to repair broken springs and to tie springs together to get firmer seat. These will hold for a long time. I did this and it works. good luck, Abe G
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#7
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My new (used) passenger seat has the same problem of crunchy horse hair. Can foam or other locally available material be used to repair it? If not where can new horse hair pads be found?
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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver 1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver 1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine |
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#8
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gahh.com
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David S Poole European Performance Dallas, TX 4696880422 "Fortune favors the prepared mind" 1987 Mercedes Benz 420SEL 1988 Mercedes Benz 300TE (With new evaporator) 2000 Mercedes Benz C280 http://www.w108.org/gallery/albums/A...1159.thumb.jpg |
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