As I was replacing the A.I.R. pump, I figured I'd knock out the front cover leak too. I'd appreciate your advice on a couple of problems I had with the front cover repair.

Stupid me didn't look at my MB CD manual before I attemped this repair. First, I installed the "U" shaped gasket with the locator pin in place. Yes, I pinched the "U" shaped gasket in the front, but thought I'd use my MB sealant to take care of my blunder. That's my second question. I do appreciate it! Ok....

1) What should I have done with the spacer pin? The CD says "Push back spacer pin to enable front cover to be more easily installed." This is in the following pdf: "01-2120.pdf" Should I have just tapped it back into the block with a hammer? Is that what this means by "pushing back"? I will admit putting a pair of vice grips on the thing and tried to twist it. Wouldn't budge. So I can't imagine being able to "push it back". And is this locator pin even necessary? I almost cut it off with a dremel :0

2) After four days, my MB sealant (black- MB# A 003 989 98 0 10) is still tacky to the touch. I'm probably down to the last 1/4 of the tube, as I've used this on many other MB and non MB repairs. It's always been great stuff, but for some reason, it's no longer curing and is staying tacky.

I know I'm going to go back into the front cover and do the repair again (in a couple weeks) to fix my pinched "U" shape gasket. Is there another gasket sealant (permatex, perhaps) that might work better than the MB sealant? The MB cd calls for MB# 002 989 45 20 sealant. I think what I have is just a newer version of this part #.

It almost seems that my tube of MB selant is no longer good. I will admit not putting a cap on the the "funnel" end. But what usually happens with sealant is just the tip of the funnel dries, and that works as a "cap".

I'd appreciate any input on either of these questions. Many thanks!

I don't know about the tacky sealant, but I can tell you on the seal between the upper and lower timing chain cover is not as hard as it seems. I did mine, the trick is not to remove the alignment pin. There is a groove that the gasket sits in on the top cover. I put a little sealant (very little) to hold it in, and a little dab at the ends of the seal where it butts up to the head. Then I slowly worked it into place, moving it in, then back a little to keep the seal in place. This was done 2 years ago and still is not leaking. I can actually still see the green seal between the two covers. Your sealant may be tacky because it is oily? I don't know, but when you do this job you got to really clean the parts up before re-assembly. I live in Plano, if you need help let me know! Good luck!
Brian

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Brian W. Heitman

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Hey Brian, thanks for the note! Tell me, how do you remove the alignment pin? And I would assume after you remove it, you tap it in place once the cover is bolted down? I'd really appreciate your thoughts. Thanks!

I didn't remove my alignment pin, I didn't know to remove it, I figured that it went together that way. I slid the cover back in slowly and would move it back a bit as I moved it in to keep the seal from slipping.

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Brian W. Heitman

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Sorry Brian -- I misread your first post.

I probably tried to get the cover on 25 times ---- that alignment pin was in the way each go round. There has to be a way to remove the thing (per the CD manual).

I'm glad you were able to make the repair with the pin in place. Impressive!

If you are looking at 01-2120 that procedure calls for an impact extractor to remove the pin, makes me wonder how I was able to put mine in without removing any pins. hmmm. Do you have a copy of this document? If not I can send you one.
Brian

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Brian W. Heitman

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Hi all --- just to followup regarding removing the "spacer pin" in the upper timing cover. After scouring the archives, and seeing Steve's great page on replacing the head gasket [http://www.continentalimports.com/ser_ic100345.html], I never could figure out how to get the pin out. I tried making a slide hammer - and that didn't work - and that was what I read most often.

I basically created a "puller" using about a 3" bolt (I believe the size bolt you'll need is the same size thread as on one of the valve cover-to-head bolts (long and skinny). Ok, so after you remove the front cover you can access this "spacer pin". It's hollow/threaded. Here is where you need a puller. So, assemble it this way: Bolt/washer fit into the ratchet end of a 3/8" deep well socket. The washer keeps the bolt from pushing through the socket. Ok, with the bolt/washer pushed through the socket, I then threaded it into the "spacer pin". I then tightened the bolt against the socket, which pulled the spacer pin "out" toward me.

So you see, the socket allows the bolt to pull the spacer pin out toward you. Once the pin frees, and it's pretty long - probably 1.5-2", just remove it from the bolt.

And you're on your way to reasembling the front cover! Hope this helps.