fusebox partly apart...afraid to go on...(420SEL)

[WANT '71 280SEL]

I am currently in the process of replacing the sway-bar brackets and bushings. I have the fusebox unbolted, and the top tray out so that I can see where all the wires screw into the back. About half the wires have factory tape on them describing which fuse # they go to. Should I just undo them 1 at a time and mark them myself with tape for re-installation? The wires that go to the fuses at the back of the fusebox seem to plug in, is this true? If so, are there any special tricks to removing the plugs without breaking a couple $100 relays?
Can anyone shed some light on this? What have been your experiences with removing fuseboxes for sway-bar work? I don't see any way to work with it still in, and if you've seen it, I'm sure you'd agree that it has to come out.
With greatest appreciation...
David Peden

[wbain5280]

This is a big job. Mark each wire and make a diagram or take pictures. The brake booster and master cylinder also need to be removed. There was one man who changed the bushings without taking all that stuff out. He said it was difficult, time consuming and bloodied his arms doing it but he did it.

I just overhauled my front suspension and I chose not to change those bushings, yet. One day I'll work up the courage to do this job.

[WANT '71 280SEL]

Actually I have read of two people that have done this with the booster in. Larry Bible was one of them and the other was also a predominant member. both of them were glad that they left the booster and M/C on. I think I can do it with the brake stuff on, (I'm 18 and have pretty smally hands for a guy my age.) Have the other people made diagrams and marked the wires?
Thanks
David

[wbain5280]

Find a young lady with thin hands and arms. Have her help you with guiding the tools under and around the brake booster. I plan to have my daughter help me.

[WANT '71 280SEL]

I see what your saying... I'm still puzzled on the fusebox though because wires come on from the back and the front so I will have to somehow remove the wires back through their holes with tape and all. I'm probably going to have to splice some of the covering off the big clump of wires so I can tape the outside parts of the wires so I can fit them through. If I can get this fusebox out of the way, I'm set. One person said he just pushed it all to the side which isn't possible because I have to remove the bracket because it is broken in half. (It rusted through). The studs are also very rusted and I'm afraid they're going to break. If they do, how can I replace those bolts? I didn't see anywhere where the other end of the stud/bolt is.
Thanks Again
David

[86560SEL]

Hmm... I was doing some searches on the 420SEL, because I really like this body style and the "less complex" rear suspension. One day if the right one comes along, I may buy one, but for now, I love my 380SE.

I am wondering though, did you ever get this task completed? It sounds like they designed the car around the suspension, or thinking that these bushings would never need replaced. They should have came up with something better. Was this the same set-up as the 81-85 W126 models?

I hope mine never needs this if that is the case.

I know this thread is old.... Hopefully all went smoothly.

[WANT '71 280SEL]

I got it done and the car is long gone. The task is not too bad once you are done with the whole job. It just takes a lot of squirming your hands around, that's all. Also, be sure to use different flex extensions/sockets when doing this. You can maneuver a long extension with a swivel through all the cords to do get to the driver's side studs.

Thanks
David