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#1
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Rear Window nylon roller-85 380SE
Wife came home with drivers rear window unable to raise. Searched and figured it was regulator. Took off door panel and sure enough the nylon roller was broken. Ordered replacement(s) from Fastlane.
Question: How will I attach new roller to regulator arm rivet? By the way, instructions found in Search for door panel removal were excellent! Took about 20 minutes. Now I won't be too afraid to try this on my E420 to replace door drivers door check.
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95 E420 ( 76K) SOLD 85 380SE(125k) 95 SL500(72k) |
#2
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If, by "roller"...
...you mean the nylon slide or glide that runs back and forth in the bottom rail, there are posts on that topic to walk you through it easily.
You might see mine where I describe drilling out the rivet and modifying the attachment using a binder post. I tried this to avoid taking the regulator out of the door - the rivet or post on the replacemant has to be peened over either in a press or whacking with a hammer. My method works well if the binder post is steel - the aluminum posts can't take the strain. Good luck! Kevin
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"Dangerous with a wrench...and not smart enough to know it" Stable (in order of acqusition): '84 500SL, 280SEL (Euros) '77 280SE. '90 560SEL '79 450SEL 6.9, '95 C280 (totalled by daughter 8/07) '81 280SL (rescued) '88 300CE '86 560SEC '95 C36 '01 CL55 DD's: '04 S500 4Matic (SWMBO) '04 F150 Crew |
#3
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Window Regulator Roller Replacement
HI, I just did one today, on a 420; nothing to it. Remove regulator from door; use a grinder to remove the pin from the arm of the regulator by grinding off the back side (this will be the side you see from looking inside the car. Be somewhat gentle). Push out the pin with a punch; insert the new roller as it should be positioned; find a small socket or steel pin about the same diameter as the body (not the head) of the pin. You will use this to support the head of the pin against an anvil while you brad the other end with a hammer. Proceed carefully, position the support for the pin head carefully so it is solid and strike careful blows, and you will get the pin braded on the arm without destroying it. You only have to get the pin tight on the arm; the plastic part has to be able to move some as the window goes up and down. Then reinstall the regulator assembly, slipping the roller in the end of the aluminum track on the bottom of the window, etc.
I popped the electrical connector open at the window switch and pulled the pin sockets for the green and black wires, to get the window motor harness loose; it does not come off at the motor, as the connections there are soldered. Also check the aluminum track: if the roller has been broken for a while, the track may be boogered up (i.e. have a rough place) and it will catch on the roller as the window moves up and down; I used sand paper to smooth up a place on mine, with perfect results. Put a little white grease on the track. Hope this helps you. |
#4
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Thanks to both of you. Yes I'm talking about the nylon slide.
I'll let you know how it goes.
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95 E420 ( 76K) SOLD 85 380SE(125k) 95 SL500(72k) |
#5
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Thanks to WBain, BHatt and PBurton for their alternative fixes for the installing the sliding jaw without removing the regulator and peening the rivet. I ended up using PBurtons method of drilling hole in the new rivet and using cotter pin to hold it onto the regulator arm. Unable to fit a small washer on rivet along with the cotter pin but its working great! As others have said the hardest part was re installing the door panel.
Think I will be very judicious in how often I put this rear window up and down as I don't want to press my luck. Thanks again
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95 E420 ( 76K) SOLD 85 380SE(125k) 95 SL500(72k) |
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