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#1
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I finally took my head off. Need advice!
Hi,
My car has been suffering from compression leak in cyl#1 since spring. I've been trying to delay the inevitable these past months. But right before my car's emissions test was due, I did a couple of tests and confirmed that the leak is caused by a bad valve. The short of the story is I failed emissions on the HydroCarbon. Since I didn't have any valid reason for delay, I took the engine head off. Now I have 2 machine shops to choose from. One was recommended by my mechanic and they charge $250 for a basic (clean, cut, grind and leak test) with $10 per guide replacement. The other machineshop was recommended by an auto repair shop I found on the internet. This machine shop charges $200 for the whole job including guide replacement and they seem to have been around since they have a listing on the Yellow pages. The first is located in upstate NY and second is located in Brooklyn, NY. My dilemma is whether choose peace of mind with the costlier quote or a cheaper deal. Does anybody know if $200 is the going rate in Brooklyn? Your input will be greatly appreciated. |
#2
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Ask each shop; "do you do a 3 ANGLE valve job"? If they don't then stay away from them!!
Also consider new valve springs... one of the most overlooked parts of any "high-mileage" valve job!
__________________
MERCEDES Benz Master Guild Technician (6 TIMES) ASE Master Technician Mercedes Benz Star Technician (2 times) 44 years foreign automotive repair 27 Years M.B. Shop foreman (dealer) MB technical information Specialist (15 years) 190E 2.3 16V ITS SCCA race car (sold) 1986 190E 2.3 16V 2.5 (sold) Retired Moderator |
#3
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there is something
to be said for using a shop that your mechanic has a relationship with. if there happen to be problems it will be easier to get it resolved... probably.
tom w
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#4
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I can only speak for the head on the 617 diesel.
I pulled this head and delivered it to a local shop that specialized in rebuilding engines. They had all the facilities needed and appeared, on the surface, to know what they were doing. Pulling the prechambers seemed to be a challenge due to not having the proper tools. The pulled the head apart and found the valves were OK and that it needed new guides. They referenced a chart for the 617 as it became clear that they hand no prior experience with it. After sitting around for eight weeks, I finally had enough and removed said head and all components. Decided to send it to California to Metric Motors. Metric found that all the exhaust valves were well under spec and the intake valves were very slightly under spec. The prechambers all suffered from loose ball pin supports. So, I changed the prechambers and the exhaust valves. Naturally, new guides and seals were used. The head was returned within two weeks (plus shipping time) and it was thoroughly cleaned and painted. The workmanship appeared excellent. I've got it running now and have no issues with it. My personal thoughts are that it's definitely worth it to spend more money with a shop that knows the engine very well and can accurately measure below .001 inches. The typical "automotive" machine shop is ill equipped to deal with the 617 diesel engine. Now with a gas engine, YMMV. Good luck. |
#5
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follow-up question
Guys, thanks for the advice. I'll go for the shop recommended by my mechanic since they've been doing MB for the last 20 years.
I just have a followup question. Since I'm left with the engine block, how do I clean off the gunk on top of the pistons. Parts of the residue has started to cake and wont come off easily. Is there a product on the market that dissolves this kind of residue? I read somewhere that this kind of carbon build on the piston top may contribute to burnt valves. |
#6
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I dont gennerally touch the top of the pistons esspecially on Alloy blocks. It's not like they are going to stay clean anyway. I'v always been concerned about carbon getting caught between the ring lands. I generally clean the top surface of the block with a rasor blade knife.
John Roncallo |
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