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  #1  
Old 02-05-2006, 12:29 AM
stephen56
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: California,Desert
Posts: 2
Talking where is the egr valve 89 260E

Is it possable that my 89 280E 124 engine KMB 2.6 KMB 2.6 V6FA12 inline 6
doze not have an egr valve? I have looked all around the entire engine,
exhaust manifolds,back of head,intake area under the intake, all around the head. the exhaust manifolds have no egr ports nor is any plumbing that
would indcate it ever had one. as I dont have an engine manual yet.Im trying my best to get it to pass Calif.manual mode five gas data idel & fast idle smog test .
new
spark plugs non resistor type and new wires,02 sensor,cleaned rotor and cap,
test RPM=705
HC=326 PPM MAX 120 PPM FAILED
NO=54 PPM
CO=0.09%
CO2= 6.8%
02=10.7%


test RPM=2562
HC=255 PPM MAX 140 PPM FAILED
NO=153 PPM
CO=3.53 PPM MAX1.0% FAILED
CO2=9.4%
02=5.4%
From what I have been reading in the posts I might have bad Cats
or outher problem. Thanks STEPHEN
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  #2  
Old 02-05-2006, 02:18 AM
carson356
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Quote:
Originally Posted by STEPHEN
Is it possable that my 89 280E 124 engine KMB 2.6 KMB 2.6 V6FA12 inline 6
doze not have an egr valve? I have looked all around the entire engine,
exhaust manifolds,back of head,intake area under the intake, all around the head. the exhaust manifolds have no egr ports nor is any plumbing that
would indcate it ever had one. as I dont have an engine manual yet.Im trying my best to get it to pass Calif.manual mode five gas data idel & fast idle smog test .
new
spark plugs non resistor type and new wires,02 sensor,cleaned rotor and cap,
test RPM=705
HC=326 PPM MAX 120 PPM FAILED
NO=54 PPM
CO=0.09%
CO2= 6.8%
02=10.7%


test RPM=2562
HC=255 PPM MAX 140 PPM FAILED
NO=153 PPM
CO=3.53 PPM MAX1.0% FAILED
CO2=9.4%
02=5.4%
From what I have been reading in the posts I might have bad Cats
or outher problem. Thanks STEPHEN
i don't think that engine had the air pump or an egr valve. the egr wouldn't have an effect on HC, only NOX. have you checked the fuel mixture?
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  #3  
Old 02-05-2006, 09:10 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,139
Very strange set of readings. Learn how to interpret them starting here:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/117048-successful-ca-asm-emission-test-ke-fuel-system.html#post833484

What does the yellow emission/tuneup label on the upper radiator support say regarding installed emission control equipment? Is it a CA or 49-state car? Is EGR listed?

You can either spend some time researching and learning how to follow a smart diagnostic procedure beginning with understanding and checking the "duty cycle", or you can just spend several hundred dollars throwing parts at it willy-nilly, which may not even solve the problem. Your choice.

Duke
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  #4  
Old 02-05-2006, 11:51 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: Albuquerque, NM USA
Posts: 1,946
On M103 engines that have EGR, the valve sits on the exhaust manifold.

See one in this picture, red hose attached
http://www.peachparts.com/images/300e_engine.jpg
__________________
Kent Christensen
Albuquerque
'07 GL320CDI, '06 SLK350
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  #5  
Old 02-05-2006, 01:33 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 73
Shouldn't have one. I owned an 89 300E and it did not have an EGR valve.
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  #6  
Old 02-05-2006, 07:38 PM
stephen56
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: California,Desert
Posts: 2
Thumbs up missing egr valve

Hello:
Here is what the yellow emissions decal has
Quote: Exhaust Emissions Control system : FI,/TWC/OS.EVP.Engine Fam:
KMB V6-1 Ajustment specs. (Applicable to all altitudes) Idel Speed 700+-50
RPM Warm,Engine & trans. in neutral. Accessories Not In operation
ign timing 9 deg.BTDC at Idle speed,idel mixture has been preset at factory
ajustment must not be made at routine tune up.For additional information
see service literature.this vechicle conforms to U.S. EPA and state of Ca.
regulations applicable to 1989 model year new motor vechicles also Canadian Emissions CATALYST
I removed the air cleaner assembly today to check the the mixture tube for
the factory tamper seal, its gone.I got the engine to operating temp. rotated
mixture screw in the tower 1/8 CClock wise(Lean) rite result No noticeable
diffrence. SET it back 1/8 clock wise and 1/8 of a turn CW (rich) was smoother
at idel. still rich smell , So i set it back to the orig. position 1/8 turn CC .
*Note this Engine must not have come equiped with A Smog pump or Air pump
as thay are not ion the engine.
Thanks To: Carson356,DUKE2.6,Ikchris,Gillis Kay, all your imput,(im going
to figuer it out sooner or later looks like later
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  #7  
Old 02-05-2006, 07:53 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,139
Okay, sounds like a CA model and no EGR.

Bubba has probably been diddling with the mixture set screw. You need to set it using a VOM with a duty cycle function. It's not hard to do, but can be a little tricky to set up. Go to the Landiss site and print the pages. Note that CA models require that the system be put into "test mode" using the button on the X92 connector in the battery comparment. Also, you need to push down with the hex wrench to engage the adjuster. Just turning it does nothing.

You want the idle and 2000 rev duty cycle average values to be within ten percent. Higher is richer (watch meter polarity, so you don't mix it up) and I find that cold starts are a little better when it's slightly rich at idle, so shoot for about 50-55 percent at idle and 45-50 percent at 2000.

BTW, you probably figured this out, but the FI/TWC/OS/EVP codes are for the emission control equipment configuration - fuel injection/three way catalyst/oxygen sensor/evaporative emission control. The code for EGR is usually... EGR! On older cars with two-way catalysts the code is "OC" for "oxidizing catalyst".

ALL emission controlled cars are built with these emission/tuneup/certification labels, but if the front end sheet metal ever had to be replaced the emission labels usually aren't, and not having a label alone can bust the emission test.

Duke

Last edited by Duke2.6; 02-05-2006 at 08:03 PM.
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  #8  
Old 02-06-2006, 12:16 PM
MrCjames's Avatar
California Dreaming
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 599
You may want to install a new Oxygen sensor to start with, a new sensor has better frequency and less hang time when switching from peak to peak. It will respond much faster and once you set the engines fuel mixture you will be surprised with with the effect it has on your the tail pipe readings. The fastest way to set your fuel mixture is by checking the EHA current, yours should be set to approx 0 mA (+/- 5 mA fluctuating). To avoid erroneous meter readings connect your ammeter while the engine and ignition key are off! Once you have the meter connected run the engine up to about 2-K RPMs for approx 2 minutes and then bring it down to idle. Measure the EHAs idle current, adjust fuel mixture if needed. Now measure the EHAs cruising current at 2-K RPMs. Ideally you'll want to stay as close to a 10% differentail as possible, subtle intake leaks can contribute to sizable EHA current differentials (IDLE VS. CRUISE).
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