Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help




Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Tech Help

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 02-11-2006, 10:31 PM
450slcguy's Avatar
Don't Tread on Me
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 613
replacing my 450slc steering coupling

I started on replacing my 450slc steering coupling today. Got the coupler bolts loose, undone the inside firewall column boot and looked to start sliding the indicator stalk out a bit before pulling the steering shaft. The rubber stalk cover goes under the column on the one end and won't come off. I don't want to break it to remove it. None of the postings I've read mentioned this. I don't want to start messing lowering the column to get it out but don't see any other way. Can the column be lowered without screwing around with the ignition column lock assembly, a real PITA. Anyone else run ino this problem?
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 02-12-2006, 12:57 AM
dkveuro's Avatar
Sword of Damocles
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Here an' there.
Posts: 2,548
It would be better to drop the steering box.
Then undo the flex coupling and draw the lower shaft down to change out the coupling.

.
__________________
[http://languageandgrammar.com/2008/01/14/youve-got-problems-not-issues/ ]

"A liberal is someone who feels they owe a great debt to their fellow man, which debt he proposes to pay off with your money."
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 02-12-2006, 09:51 AM
450slcguy's Avatar
Don't Tread on Me
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 613
Coupler removal procedure

Boy now I'm confused, so much conflicting advice on how to to this. Why do you think it's easier to drop the steering box? WILL THE BOX MOVE BACK AND OUT OF THE WAY WITH THE PITMAN ARM CONNECTED? You loosen the box before removing the coupler bolts, won't that put alot of downward stress on the steering shaft, I wouldn't want to break or bend it.

Last edited by 450slcguy; 02-12-2006 at 12:29 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 02-12-2006, 12:35 PM
Strife's Avatar
General Purpose Geek
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: KY USA
Posts: 2,238
I'm looking at doing this in the spring on my 560. From what I've read (and I've done a lot of research, MB and internet, you are going about it the right way by pulling back on the steering shaft. There is a horror story on (maybe ponton.org?) about a slightly bent steering shaft (bent from doing this job the other way) eventually loosening the coupling and...guess what happens.
__________________
86 560SL
With homebrew first gear start!
85 380SL
Daily Driver Project

http://juliepalooza.8m.com/sl/mercedes.htm
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 02-12-2006, 03:29 PM
450slcguy's Avatar
Don't Tread on Me
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 613
Strife,
I'm going to do it the column shaft way. The steering shaft coupler bolt was accessed from inside the car working around the around the column boot cover, not to tough but real was real tight (cracked like a nut when it broke). The second bolt cannot be accessed inside, not enough room even after cutting down an Allen wrench.

I tried the steering box coupler bolt from the engine compatment, but with 2 feet of extensions getting the hex key to seat properly in the bolt head was almost impossible. I almost stripped out the bolt hole. In order to get the bolt out from underneath the car you need to clear the firewall and seat the allen key in the bolt firmly (a tough angle).

A hex key socket was to fat and I couldn't get the hex bit to seat properly without hittlng the firewall. In order to get that coupler bolt out you need a straight 6" long or longer hex allen key in the bolt head, the other end connected to a 1/4" 6mm socket. I used a 1/4" to 3/8" socket adapter on the socket with a 10" extention and a breaker bar. This gave me room to turn the breaker bar without interference and allowed the key to fit straight into the bolt hole giving me enough torque to break the bolt out. Mine was in real snug and it took some muscle to loosen it, and it made a loud crack when the bolt finally broke free.

Step one completed, we'll see how everything else goes this week, hopefully without to much pain, but I doubt it.

Last edited by 450slcguy; 02-12-2006 at 04:35 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 02-12-2006, 09:25 PM
dkveuro's Avatar
Sword of Damocles
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Here an' there.
Posts: 2,548
Quote:
Originally Posted by 450slcguy
Strife,
..............................................I tried the steering box coupler bolt from the engine compatment, but with 2 feet of extensions getting the hex key to seat properly in the bolt head was almost impossible. I almost stripped out the bolt hole. In order to get the bolt out from underneath the car you need to clear the firewall and seat the allen key in the bolt firmly (a tough angle). ...........................
This is what 'Wobble end' is for. The slight angle is allowing the allen drive to be square with the bolt .
__________________
[http://languageandgrammar.com/2008/01/14/youve-got-problems-not-issues/ ]

"A liberal is someone who feels they owe a great debt to their fellow man, which debt he proposes to pay off with your money."
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 02-14-2006, 10:08 PM
450slcguy's Avatar
Don't Tread on Me
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 613
Question '80 SLC steering coupler

I went to remove the coupler today, pulling the steering shaft out. Upon inspection I'm not sure if the coupler will move far enough up to clear the steering box end without hitting the bottom of the steering tube, appears only to be about 3/4" upaward movement at most. I gotta a feeling the steering box is going to have to be moved to get a little extra clearence to come off. Looking at the box I'm wondering how it can be moved with the steel fluid lines connected along with the pitman arm attached? Those line don't look to flexible. I read somewhere to remove the top 2 steering box bolts and loosen partially the lower bolt and move it down a bit. Will this work or should all 3 bolts come out. The weather is going to be warm tomorrow so I'm gonna go at it. Some people say do it the shaft way, others say drop the box, some say a combo of both. Will the box really move with all the connection still on? Would be greatfull for more advice as to the clearence for removal, thanks all.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 02-14-2006, 10:35 PM
dkveuro's Avatar
Sword of Damocles
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Here an' there.
Posts: 2,548
Quote:
Originally Posted by 450slcguy
................................................................I'm not sure if the coupler will move far enough up to clear the steering box end without hitting the bottom of the steering tube, appears only to be about 3/4" upaward movement at most. I gotta a feeling the steering box is going to have to be moved to get a little extra clearence to come off. Looking at the box I'm wondering how it can be moved with the steel fluid lines connected along with the pitman arm attached? Those line don't look to flexible. ................................................................... Would be greatfull for more advice as to the clearence for removal, thanks all. [/B]
Remove the two line nuts on the hard line fittings...drain fluid (Quart.)
Remove box bolts from inner fender area.
Loosen clamp hex head screw on steering input shaft.
Lower steering box still attached to the steering arms/tie rods.

Proceed with flex shaft removal.



.
__________________
[http://languageandgrammar.com/2008/01/14/youve-got-problems-not-issues/ ]

"A liberal is someone who feels they owe a great debt to their fellow man, which debt he proposes to pay off with your money."
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 02-14-2006, 10:47 PM
450slcguy's Avatar
Don't Tread on Me
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 613
Thanks, now I know why you recommended this in the first place, appreciate your advice...
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 02-15-2006, 06:37 PM
450slcguy's Avatar
Don't Tread on Me
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 613
Steering coupling Completed!!

Just got done doing my steeringing coupling, took about 2 hours. I removed the steering wheel, the 2 hex socket bolts on coupling,, lossened the blinker screws and pulled out the blinker assembly until loose, then removed the big snap ring and the 4 bolts holding the shaft assembly to the steering column. I pulled the steering shaft up about 4 inches, Removed the rubber grommet that fits into the steering tube then pulled up on the coupler till the cone on the coupler inserted into the steering column. At that point the coupler cleared the steering box shaft. I removed the coupler thru the access hole in the car very easily. I inserted the new coupler thru the access hole from the inside, aligned it to the same position it came out and slid it onto the steering box shaft. At that point I reinserted the rubber grommet back into the steering column then wiggled down the steering shaft until in mated into the coupler, gave the shaft a few taps with a rubber mallet till it seated all the way in. Tightened the socket hex bolts, Installed the 4 bolts back into column, reinserted the snap ring, and reinstalled the firewall boot and steering wheel. All done. I checked to see if my blinkers turned off properly, this confirmed the alignment. DON'T EVEN CONSIDER REMOVING THE STEERING BOX as some suggest, that would have been extremely difficult to manuever and taken alot more time and effort, plus you'd really screw up the alignment for everything. Piece of cake pulling the shaft, the only way to go. My steering now has no play what so ever and the rest of the rebuilt front end feels great. Thanks for everyone that helped.

Last edited by 450slcguy; 02-16-2006 at 05:55 PM.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:22 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page