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  #1  
Old 02-14-2006, 08:52 PM
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Location: Fort Worth, TX
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A/C question on 126 chassis

Hi All,

Again, he posting is about my 1983 380SEC.
I am wondering whether the A/C compressor can handle R134a? Is this just a swap fittings, make sure system is tight, replace drier, evacuate, fill with R134a conversion (obviously not in this order), or does the compressor/other parts have to be replaced as well? (I know on some BMWs, the compressor's seals cannot take the new oil associated with R134a - thus the quesion).
Please help...

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1983 560SL Megasquirted (originally 380SL)

My former Mercedes:
1985 300SD ~190k
1990 560SEL
2000 C220 CDI
1983 380SEC 102k dual-chain conversion
2000 C280 70k (sold)
1987 300DT (W124 - sold)
1972 220D (sold)
1971 220D (sold)

Last edited by GregZ; 02-14-2006 at 10:59 PM.
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  #2  
Old 02-15-2006, 05:49 AM
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My understanding is that the seals would need replacing also - +/- other bits.

It's not as simple as replacing the fluid but I'm not sure exactly what is entailed.
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  #3  
Old 02-15-2006, 09:39 AM
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MOST of the early R134a warnings WERE incorrect!

Conversion on any 1981 & later car with THAT A/C compressor is as simple as draining the old oil...flushing...adding new PAG 100 weight that is compatable with both R12 & R134a..pulling a vacuum & recharging with 70-75% of the original R12 spec.

Remember that that system should have a new drier with a PRESSURE switch as part of that conversion..
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  #4  
Old 02-15-2006, 12:27 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Fort Worth, TX
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will all drier's accept a pressure switch or is this a special drier with a pressure switch?
E.g., would something like this be okay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-A-C-drier-W126-560SEL-420SEL-300SD-500SE-dryer_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ46094QQitemZ8038367908QQrdZ1

Thanks,

Greg
__________________
1983 560SL Megasquirted (originally 380SL)

My former Mercedes:
1985 300SD ~190k
1990 560SEL
2000 C220 CDI
1983 380SEC 102k dual-chain conversion
2000 C280 70k (sold)
1987 300DT (W124 - sold)
1972 220D (sold)
1971 220D (sold)
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  #5  
Old 02-15-2006, 01:44 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Upstate New York
Posts: 199
Greg, I would ask to see pictures of the other side. Not all R/D's will accept a switch. I would buy one from Fastlane, and pass on the $13 Ebay special!
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  #6  
Old 02-15-2006, 01:57 PM
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Greg, although the compressor can "handle" 134a, it won't last as long and your hoses won't either. Especially as you are in Ft. Worth, a much better option will be to get a 609 cert online (costs about $15) and then get R12 and keep it that way. In the end, it will be cheaper for you and it will work better.
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Old 02-15-2006, 02:06 PM
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neat - where can I get certified for that - any hints?

Thanks to everyone
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1983 560SL Megasquirted (originally 380SL)

My former Mercedes:
1985 300SD ~190k
1990 560SEL
2000 C220 CDI
1983 380SEC 102k dual-chain conversion
2000 C280 70k (sold)
1987 300DT (W124 - sold)
1972 220D (sold)
1971 220D (sold)
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  #8  
Old 02-15-2006, 02:25 PM
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www.epatest.com/e_home.html

If you do decide to flip to 134 swap both drier and compressor. They make 134 compressors for a reason.
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Old 02-15-2006, 04:31 PM
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My SDL was converted over to R134 in 1994 by a dealer. By the looks of it at the time they swapped out most of the lines and the compressor. Considering a new compressor for this thing is like $700 I have no problem with that.

It seems to work well enough, but that AC on these cars is pretty weak. American cars will freeze you out, for some reason these won't.
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  #10  
Old 02-15-2006, 07:40 PM
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Location: Upstate New York
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A 134 car will never be as cold as R12. DieselGiant has some stuff (R12 substitute) he claims works pretty well, but I've never used it. I'm R12 legal, and can buy and dispense all I need too. I would keep my R12 car R12 as long as I could.
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  #11  
Old 02-15-2006, 10:44 PM
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Thanks for the cert info. I am all certified now. The tools I have anyway.
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1983 560SL Megasquirted (originally 380SL)

My former Mercedes:
1985 300SD ~190k
1990 560SEL
2000 C220 CDI
1983 380SEC 102k dual-chain conversion
2000 C280 70k (sold)
1987 300DT (W124 - sold)
1972 220D (sold)
1971 220D (sold)
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  #12  
Old 02-16-2006, 06:08 AM
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Location: Upstate New York
Posts: 199
You can find R12 for a decent price from one of the Ebay bozos.
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  #13  
Old 02-19-2006, 01:41 AM
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R134 vs R12 temperatures

For a system designed for R-12--keep it R-12 if at all possible. You may not be happy with the cooling performance and longevity with R-134a installed. It is VERY difficult to get all the R-12 oil (a special mineral oil) out of the system, and just a little is all that is needed to gum up a system filled with R-134a and its synthetic oil. And your R-12 hoses will leterally 'seep' R134a through their pores, causing annual re-charges (complete with legally mandated leak testing, in all probability.

A properly designed system running 134a is just as cold as one running R12. It just takes larger expansion valve, evaporator and condensor and compressor.
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  #14  
Old 02-19-2006, 06:54 AM
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"A properly designed system running 134a is just as cold as one running R12" That is true, but not going to happen on a converted car. So I stand by my statement, but will modify it some, so it doesn't get tweaked around again. "A car that was originally designed for R12,converted to 134, will never be as cold as it was on R12".

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