What is the size of socket (12 point?) required to remove '84 123 lower shock absorber mount on front lower control arm? It's for the 2 bolts that mount the small bracket to the arm...

Gotta buy one today -

thanks!
bnc

Those are 10MM, 12 point bolt heads. As I recall though, you won't be able to fit a socket on a couple of those bolts.

Again, as I recall, you have to suspend both front wheels in the air safely and turn the wheels all the way in one direction for the front bolt and then all the way in the other direction for the other bolt. It's easier to just take the wheels off and get them the heck out of the way.

As I recall you have minimum clearance on a couple of those bolts such that a thick wrench won't fit, but I might be remembering wrong. If you will get a good 10MM, 12 point, box end wrench that is thin around the outside I think that's what you will need. Getting a socket will only allow access to some of those bolts.

I expect that a Craftsman, or other cheap boxend wrench would be too thick. You might need one off the tool truck or one of the better cheap brands like SK or something.

Good luck,

Thanks Larry!

bryan

Larry is perzactley right....and it is a very tight fit....I just ground a boxed end wrench head down to fit CBE (crude, but effective). You are just gonna love the 1/4 turn at time, PITA....but you really will love that new shock feel.

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Mark
1983 300TD Wagon
Even a broken watch is right twice a day

Actually once you get it loose, you can probably move around on the shock itself while turning the bolt with your fingers and get it on out without the 1/4 turn business. By moving the shock you can find a place where it is not putting any resistance on the bolt, letting it come out with your fingers.

Those are the kinds of things that you learn after a few years of wrenching.

If you grind down a wrench, don't expect that wrench to be accepted under warranty by ANY toolmaker. If you were to grind down a cheap wrench then it may not be strong enough to take it. Even some of the sources that sell semi cheap tools should have something thin enough to fit in there. Craftsman wrenches have been bulky since about 1970 or so. Before that time Craftsman open ends were known to spread when torqued hard. At that point they beefed them up so that they would not spread as bad, but in the process started making wrenches that you couldn't fit in a tight spot.

It COULD be that the Craftsman POLISHED combinations might be made thin like the other makers.

Good luck,

I have found it easy to do with a socket... First jack up car and make it safe to remove the wheel and then unbolt the top of the shock and pull it down into the fender well and move it to create clearance.. It has worked for me on 116's, 123's and 126's... goodluck...Jim

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James A. Harris

i agree with jim. it will work with an ordinary 10mm 1/2" drive socket if done that way. undo the top first and bend way over.

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Yes, I remember now. It's been a long time since I've worked on a 123. Yes you pivot the shock on the mount to get it out of the way.

Thanks for the clarification. This should save him some trouble running around looking for a thin wrench.

Have a great day,

What a great idea, move the top of the shock for better clearance! So simple, just like the jitter-bug, it just plumb evaded me. DUH!

The orginal shocks lasted 23 years, whatta wanna bet I forget this info in 23 years?!

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Mark
1983 300TD Wagon
Even a broken watch is right twice a day