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  #1  
Old 03-13-2006, 08:48 PM
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Unhappy 94 e320 Pin 14 Code 2 = BIG $3,600 - Need Suggestions - Please!

94 e320 Pin 14 Code 2 = BIG $3,600 - Need Suggestions - Please!

When using Arthur Dalton's code tester produced Pin 14 codes 3, 5, 14 and the infamous Code "2" [Too many "or" alternatives for me] I simply made an appointment with my understanding Benz dealer. I pay the diagnostic fee [$95 this time] and they give me the bad news. Usually I buy the parts and DYI, occasionally I let them do the work. We have a pretty good relationship [I make lame jokes, do car talk and they ask me if i'm sitting down].

This time they gave me the BIG BAD NEWS.

Quote from the report:

139994 Short Test, Codes for EA Actuator, EA Control Module,
Estimate Part #0001414925 $1587 Part #245456532 $2058.50

So the Benz service man says "be sure you get the exact part numbers." However, he was surprised that it runs so well with these malfunctioning components.

The question[s] are:
Could the Benz service tech have made a mistake?
Do they have to be the EXACT part numbers?
What's a fair price to pay for each "used" part?
What's involved in R&Ring the components?
Where are all those Benzs lost to Katrina, and more importantly will flood waters destroy the aforementioned parts?

All suggestions are appreciated.

Bob
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  #2  
Old 03-13-2006, 10:02 PM
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Location: Phoenix
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Such things don't get repaired because of fault codes, they get repaired because the car won't run. How well does the car run? The engine actuator / aka throttle body can be rebuilt by Beckman Technologies in NC at 800-742-1021. It could also be just a bad harness for the engine actuator. If it was me I would not go back anywhere that had to cajones to give such an estimate. You should get a second opinion from an honest independent shop, or if the car is operating just watch the fault codes yourself.
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  #3  
Old 03-13-2006, 11:56 PM
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Here's a link to a guy with a 600SEL with a V12 who has done some of his own rewiring:

http://v12uberalles.com/throttle_actuator_rewire.htm

http://v12uberalles.com/MAF_rewire.htm

The idea's the same, you just have fewer cylinders and more room.
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  #4  
Old 03-14-2006, 08:20 AM
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You can get a reman 000-141-49-25-R from Beckmann technologies 800-742-1021. Less than a GRAND..the computers hardly ever go bad & Beckmann can supply a reman unit for that as well.
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  #5  
Old 03-14-2006, 09:58 AM
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That's a pretty impressive list of codes, but do you suppose this could be the engine wiring harness?

- JimY
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  #6  
Old 03-14-2006, 12:16 PM
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Thanks to all for your replies.

deanyel wrote

Runs ok, but I'm only doing local in event "limp mode" activates.

Warren Bain wrote

So it the "wiring" not the modules. My mother in law used to build circuit boards for Allen Organ. She likes me, but this is gonna take a lot of chocolates

M.B.DOC wrote

Good to know if I can't bribe mother in law.

jcyuhn wrote

Jealous are you?

I think mine was replaced, but you have an excellent point. I'll have a "professional" look at it.

Keep those cards and letters commin'

Bob
PS SPRING iIS HERE!!!
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  #7  
Old 03-14-2006, 12:59 PM
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You don't really need to have a "professional" look at the wiring harness. Find a part number on it and post it here, someone will know whether it is the updated one or not.

Just FYI

Good Luck!
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  #8  
Old 03-14-2006, 01:00 PM
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Eh, I've got two codes on pin 8 (4 & 13), but pin 14 is looking clean so far. Think I need a MAF.

My codes only add up to 17, yours to 24. You win. How's that for diagnostics?

- JimY
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  #9  
Old 03-14-2006, 10:19 PM
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I have a good friend who works for a dealer in a major metro area. His honest opinion is that none of the techs there know how to work on aything more than about 5 years old. Having come from my shop as one of the techs who only worked on "newer" cars he was surprised to find that he was the only one who actually knew how to fix '95 and older models.
The moral is that your car is becoming obsolete in the terms of technician knowledge. The classes that taught techs how to work on those cars was 10 years ago. How many dealer techs have 10 years of tenure?
I ask this because there are several different problems that can cause your code 2. The least likely of which is the actual module. A tech that isn't familiar with the system and how to daignose it will end up costing you a fortune. Your best bet would not be the dealer unless they have an older tech driving the same car for a daily. I'd reccommend that you find a good independant shop capable of performing a thorough diagnosis. Fixing the problem and fixing it right the first time is crucial in minimizing the cost of repairs which, as I'm sure you're realizing, can skyrocket if it takes more than one $tab to "kill" the problem.
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  #10  
Old 03-17-2006, 06:39 PM
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I spoke with the service writer again regarding their diagnosis Pin 14, Code 2 and their recommending replacing the EA Actuator Part #0001414925 EA Control Module Part #245456532. He implied both modules were out of spec and would fail sooner or later and the engine operation would be erratic and the car difficult to drive. Assuming diagnosis is correct, I attempted to locate them on my 124 Repair CD and braingears without success.

Is it worth getting one from a recycler (aka junk yard) or do many start failing at the 140,000 mi / 12 year age?
Do they have other name(s) I should be referencing?
Where are they located in the car and on the 124 Repair CD?
Any recommendations for good inde or Benz dealer for 2nd opinion?

Bob
Allentown PA
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  #11  
Old 03-17-2006, 06:50 PM
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Or you could go to www.4mercedes.com and pick up a rebuilt for $400.00. It fixed my problems. Too have you examined your wiring harness?
Chris
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  #12  
Old 04-30-2006, 11:27 AM
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Question

I located used control module and actuator for $720. Control module appears easy enough for me to "plug and play.' However, after reading many posts and only finding "30-1152D" "Removing and installing idle speed control (ISC) actuator" on the CD, I'm still not sure how to remove it.

I can see four 5mm hex bolts (one at each corner) that might secure it. Does the intake manifold have to be removed to remove the throttle body? Are there any hints, tricks, tip to remove linkage and hoses. I'd appreciate specific instructions and/or reference to other docs.

Is there a more appropriate Shop Forum thread I should post this question?

Bob

PS I've R&R'd complete intake systems on the 2.6L Ford motor, but M104 mystifies me. And I'm still breaking the electrical connectors when attempting to disconnect them. I guess that's another MB mechanics' secret.
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  #13  
Old 05-01-2006, 08:16 AM
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You need to remove the cross-over pipe first then the rubber boot between that boot & the actuator. Then the variable runner flap (plastic box) part of the intake must come off. Once that is off you will have room to get the actuator mounting bolts off as well.
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44 years foreign automotive repair
27 Years M.B. Shop foreman (dealer)
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  #14  
Old 05-01-2006, 09:35 AM
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Thanks for the reply Doc

In the attached pik, is "the variable runner flap (plastic box) part of the intake" the item to the right of the rubber tube and between the intake tubes?

Thanks
Bob
Attached Thumbnails
94 e320 Pin 14 Code 2 = BIG ,600 - Need Suggestions - Please!-flap-pik.jpg  
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  #15  
Old 05-01-2006, 11:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Weir
I located used control module and actuator for $720. Control module appears easy enough for me to "plug and play".
Bob
I suggest that you consider having your ETA rebuilt; as was stated in earlier posts, "Beckmann Industries" successfully rebuilds ETAs and you get a one (1) warranty. Something for you to consider.

Check out MENU#24 on my web pages, to see some ETA rebuilds and schematics. It's for a "W140" but the concepts are the same.

And one other point; I would thoroughly investigate your wiring harness . . . BEFORE doing any parts replacment! For your car, the wiring harness MUST be replaced and if it hasn't, then those failures could be caused by it as it deteriorates.

The MB dealer will NOT stand behind a replacement of both parts and then if they find a 'suspect' wiring harness, you will have to pay AGAIN to have it replaced. The dealer has no scruples.
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