I've posted this on a few other forums, I thought I'd post it here as well. Some of you may find the information useful







Its actually quite straightforward, and I took some piccies as well. Most of the piccies are from the rear, looking forward (you can see the exhaust and cat on the right).

1) Make sure the engine and gearbox are up to running temperature

2) Drive car onto ramps, leave in neutral with engine off

3) Lift the car up on the ramps

4) Remove the plastic cover protecting the pan (about 8 self tapping bolts with washers)

5) Remove the drain plug (allen key) and drain the ATF into a bucket, only a couple of litres will come out of here:



6) Leave until its stopped dripping, and then remove the pan (6 torque bolts). Gasket is attached to the lip of the pan. Be careful there will be a litre or so of fluid in the pan, so hold it steady! Once its stopped, you should be looking at this:



7) Remove old filter, this is the hole it plugs into:



8) Wait for drips to stop

9) Reattach the pan, loosely - this stops more ATF dripping on your head while you're draining the torque convertor

10) Hunt for torque convertor drain plug - as luck would have it, the bugger was nowhere to be seen, so my mate pushed the flywheel around with a thick screwdriver. It took about 10 minutes, but slowly he managed to turn the flywheel enough and reveal the drain plug. He was pushing the wheel to the right as he stood - thats anti-clockwise as you're behind it (ie facing forward). You can see the plug below:



11) Remove drain plug, hold bucket underneath. About another 3-4 litres should come out of here, and quickly too:



12) Wait for everything to drain, then reattach the plug. We fitted the washer backwards, to make a better seal.

13) Put new filter into position

14) Clean the pan, put new gasket on the edge (fits beautifully), bolt back into position. The design of the bolts means you can't damage the pan by overtightening, which I thought was clever.

15) Put the drain plug back on the pan, and nip tight. Its an aluminium bolt so be careful.

16) Put the plastic cover back in position

17) Lower car on ramps, open bonnet, remove filler cap (screwdriver may be required)

18) Get a funnel, and pour the new ATF down. Go slowly.

19) Start engine, with handbrake on move through all the gears back and forth for a few minutes, until the fluid has worked its way around the box.


We didn't have a dipstick, so we filled her up with the same amount as what we drained. I did this by collecting the old ATF in the same bucket, and pouring it into each empty bottle of new ATF we used. Once the bucket was empty, we stopped filling it up. I'm going to take it to a nearby indy and have it checked just to be on the safe side.

The differences are quite subtle, certainly upchanges are much smoother, although downchanges are most pronounced, particularly after using kickdown. The car moves into gear from neutral more quickly, I'd say maybe 1-2 tenths of a second quicker.

The old ATF was very dark brown. It didn't smell burnt, and there were no metal filings or particles anywhere to be seen, so I'm assuming the box is fine and its just never been changed (167000 miles). My mate said we could have been draining the engine oil it was that black!

The replacement ATF is red - a really strong raspberry colour, not as dark as blood, not brown in anyway, but just like strawberry/raspberry juice.



Obviously it goes without saying that we cleaned everything in sight with a rag and cleaning fluids, including the pan.

I had the level checked later at an independant mechanic with the correct MB dipstick, it was about 1/4-1/3 of a litre low - so we topped it up slightly and now its perfect.

I should add that of course I've learnt a thing or two since then, some of the old fluid was left in the cooling pipes, but its no big deal really. Apparently draining the torque convertor first helps drain more ATF from the cooling system, via a vacuum effect.

Very nice write-up, like the pictures.

I did a similar write-up when I changed the trans fluid on my 98 E320. I found it easier to remove the front belly pan and reach around with a allen-socket and wrench on the crank shaft bolt to turn the engine so that the torque converter drain plug is at the 6:00 position.

The other thing I did was to install a transmission pan magnet since mine didn't come with one.

After I changed my trans fluid I realized that it was no more difficult then changing the trans fluid on a GM vehicle.

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Ray
1998 Mercedes E320, 200K Miles
2001 Acura 3.2TL, 178K Miles
1992 Chevy Astro, 205K Miles

Great write up Parrot of Doom. I'm going to do ATF change on my vehicle. I wonder if 2000 E320 has transmission 722.6.

Yes, it has the 722.6.

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Ali Al-Chalabi

2001 CLK55
1999 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel
2002 Harley-Davidson Fatboy
Merlin Extralight w/ Campy Record

So the transmision pan magnet is a Mercedes Benz part with a part number?

How does one clean the transmission sump pan? special non-lint rags and special cleaner? what kind?

Is there a particular sequence for attaching the pan bolts?

Just use a cloth, a bit of spirit, and wipe it clean. No need for laboratory conditions, once its dry just give it a wipe with a lint-free cloth. Obviously you don't want any grit in there, but its very shiny inside so you'll be able to see any muck quite easily.

Just tighten the sump bolts back up sensibly, bear in mind that there is a rubber gasket around the lip so I'd tighten it up in a staggered pattern, like you do with wheel bolts.

I know some people have found that the Merc spec ATF is the same spec as other makes, but personally I felt safer just going to the dealership, giving them my VIN number, and buying the ATF from them. Better safe than sorry I thought

While you're in there, its well worth ordering 2 new drain plugs and washers - just in case anything untoward happens, and so you're not left without a car.

Yes, the later 1998 models should have one installed from the factory mine was an earily build 1998 model. You should also remove the pan magnet and give it a good cleaning since it attracts alot of crud.

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Ray
1998 Mercedes E320, 200K Miles
2001 Acura 3.2TL, 178K Miles
1992 Chevy Astro, 205K Miles

The MB PN is A 220 271 00 98 for the magnet.

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Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz

where are you supposed to place the magnet in the pan? I have no idea what size or shape the magnet is.

thanks for the replys

Here, it is called out as item #50 in the print...it goes right into the corner like shown.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz

Serviced my transmission today. All went reasonably well. No surprises thanks to this nice step by step.

A few observations and comments: I added a pan magnet since mine didn't have one. The WIS shows that the pan magnet appeared as of 4/2001. I drained out about seven liters. The new washers I got for both the pan and torque converter drain plugs were slightly different than the ones I took off. The new ones came from the dealer, so I assume they are the current correct parts. The torque converter has a steel washer, #007603-010100. The transmission drain plug has a copper washer, #007603-014106. There were no metal pieces in the pan thank goodness and very little graphite residue, although the old fluid was about as dirty as the first time around. I plan to send it away to be analyzed and will compare the results to the first one. This is the second transmission service done, one at 50,000 and one at 100,000 miles.

I also checked the electrical plug while I was in the area. I had to replace it in the past because ATF leaked into it disturbing the electrical connections. It was nice and dry this time around.

I could not get the torque converter to turn using the big screw driver method. I ended up doing the 27mm socket on the crank shaft bolt. Took awhile, but the torque converter drain plug eventually showed up. Turning the crank shaft bolt seems to turn the torque converter more than I would have expected. I think I missed it the first time around.

Len
'99 E300Turbo 99,800 miles

I thought the ATF level on these transmissions had to be checked at a certain temperature otherwise the level is incorrect iff too cold or too hot?

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ARVY

1999 E430
1999 C230 Kompressor
1992 300E (write-off)
1984 190D 2.2 (sold)

i replaced mine as well, but did not notice any differences in shifting quality. in fact it might have gotten a bit rougher now

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Current cars:
2001 MB E55 AMG
2003 Honda S2000
2000 Honda CRV

Gone but not forgotten:
2004 BMW 325i 5sp sport
1999 BMW 540i sport
1997 MB E420
1995 BMW M3 coupe