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Old 03-13-2001, 05:32 PM
Mike Murrell's Avatar
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If you have time, please reference the following:


Towards the bottom of the thread you say " On early cars the bearing pre-load is important & critical!!!. On later cars, rotors can be done w/out touching the bearings".

My vehicle is a 1991 300-SEL.

Searching through the archives here it sounds as though I'll need a dial indicator to set bearing preload on the front wheels vs. the "fish scale" approach used on other vehicles.

It sounds like rear wheel bearing removal/repack/etc. is out of reach for DIYERS for a number of reasons to include mega$$$ gear I wouldn't have access to.

In my case, is rear-wheel rotor removal/replacement within the reach of a DIYER whose done brake work on other cars?

Thanks for your time.

Mike Murrell
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Old 03-13-2001, 05:56 PM
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Tucker, Ga USA
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For tapered bearings to wear properly the "end-play" SHOULD be set with dial indicator. On the 1991 300SE that applies to front & rear wheel bearings! The reason that the rear is OUT-OF the reach of MOST DIYER's is special tools required.
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Old 03-13-2001, 09:13 PM
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To add to DOC, to do the rear rotors, you need not take off the bearings or hubs. They are floating rotors.

The fronts do have to be taken apart. The rule of thumb on the front is what I call 0. That is where there is no play, but NO PRELOAD on the bearings.
Donnie Drummonds
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Old 03-13-2001, 10:00 PM
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Doc/Benzmac - thanks for your help.
Mike Murrell
1991 300-SEL - Model 126
M103 - SOHC

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