There are other things to check first.

Cam timing...older vehicles needs checking.
Fuel pressure control unit....again, pressures need checked.
Fuel accumalator...would be checked for operation when checking all fuel pressures....rest/run/pump stall/volume...etc.

Injector/s....dribble and spray pattern.

Air flow ratio....with c/o setting screw, after all tests indicate everything working within factory spec's.

One more thing...Run the timing with out any vacuum applied set to 10 to 12 degrees BTDC at 700 rpm.
Watch for smooth advance from the mechanical advance weights and also smooth decay back to idle speed....weights wear and get irratic...they have a tendence to hang up, so settings get thrown off. Weight springs get weak and do not pull advance back to basic after engine speed returns to idle.

This help ?

PS...If memory serves...that vac' switch turns on either egr, charcoal canister or vac' advance and switches off at 50 degrees C coolant temperature. It is a vacume switch valve. If it's plumbed into the distributor advance via a three way connector then it's for emmision control.(Purge canister.).. the vac' lines for the other switch go to the control pressure regulator and the intake manifold prior to the throttle plate, it's also a 50 degrees C switch. This vac' signal causes a little extra fuel when throttle opened .

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__________________
[http://languageandgrammar.com/2008/01/14/youve-got-problems-not-issues/ ]

"A liberal is someone who feels they owe a great debt to their fellow man, which debt he proposes to pay off with your money."

So, you're saying to do all those things (which I have never done before on any vehicle) to fix my idle problem?
How would I check the cam timing without pulling of the front cover and looking at the marks on the chains?
Fuel pressure, I don't think that I have any evidence of fuel starvation, of course I could be wrong...... There is no log during accelaration or etc..
I don't have the tools to do the fuel pressure testing anyway.

Thank you for the response.

I'm replying to your cry for help...if you don't want to check, or have these basic settings checked, all the help you may get may be usless unless these are okay.

Chain timing is checked by removing the valve covers and turning the motor over untill the timing marks align.

If you would like to be walked through the basic settings you can do, I'll try to help you, but blowing off help as too complicated tells me you may be looking for an easy fix.

Have you increased the timing to 10 degrees BTDC ?
Have you checked for false air ?

Does your idle valve connector show 12 volts dc.?

There are still other things to check but if you don't wish to do so, please save me the time helping you by saying so..


BTW.....Your post of 03-01-2006, 07:56 PM says "..............everything is working cherry"....so what's the story ?




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__________________
[http://languageandgrammar.com/2008/01/14/youve-got-problems-not-issues/ ]

"A liberal is someone who feels they owe a great debt to their fellow man, which debt he proposes to pay off with your money."

As of 3-1-06 I THOUGH everything was fine. As I was not expiriencing the stalling anymore. Actually my girlfriend is the only one that can get it to stall (it's that rare).

Valve covers were removed and I think the timing was checked during the initial inspection of the car by a mechanic in california DR. ZIGGY'S German Car Specialist also the mechanic here pulled it off as well so I assumed they looked at that since they were tuning the car up and mentioned that the chain was tight.

Have you increased the timing to 10 degrees BTDC ? No, I have not done that yet. So I advance the timing to 10 and idle and increases and then I should watch the idle go back down to 700?

Have you checked for false air ? No, how?

Does your idle valve connector show 12 volts dc.? Will let you know in a few.

Guys, I am more then happy to learn what you want to teach me and explore new grounds, it's just both of the mechanics say that it's an IDLE/Vacuum problem. Not to mention the car drives awsome otherwise, just dosen't seem like it has a lot of power when you intially push the gas pedal from a stop. But I don't know how it's supposed to be.

Dmitri

The 380 does not have a lot of off idle power....not for a heavy 107 chassis.
The power issue and idle could well be one and the same.

The vac' system on the early 107's was primarily for emission complience.
By increasing the ignition timing you may run afoul of the smog test numbers....depending where you live. Increase ignition advance does increase the c/o %. It will also impact NOx too.

You need to look very close at the vac' routing and intake/hose condition.
Your's should be too early for the AIR system so it should be simpler to trouble shoot.

To start with....timing is critical to idle quality and stability. If the advance weights are hanging up some times, this will show as an artificial basic timing....when the weights decide to fall back to the normal 'no mechanical advance' position...the engine will tend to stall due to insufficient ignition advance..
This can happen often or rarely.

To check this you need a timing light and be able to pull idle speed down to less than 700 rpm.
The O/T mark and timing degrees stamped into the crank damper are difficult to see with a timing light.....mark them and the pointer with 'White Out' first.

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__________________
[http://languageandgrammar.com/2008/01/14/youve-got-problems-not-issues/ ]

"A liberal is someone who feels they owe a great debt to their fellow man, which debt he proposes to pay off with your money."

Okay, I am dense here.
You want me to advance the timing to 10btdc and do .......

How would I drop the rpms down?

Remove idle valve and plug intake hose/s.
Use throttle arm to control idle speed.


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__________________
[http://languageandgrammar.com/2008/01/14/youve-got-problems-not-issues/ ]

"A liberal is someone who feels they owe a great debt to their fellow man, which debt he proposes to pay off with your money."