If he's any good....print all this post, and ask him if he could check it again for you.

He'll know where to check the base c/o % and check the ignition timing all the way down to 500 rpm or less.

The GREEN fat wire under the passenger carpet goes to the footwell plate to the O2 connector....earlier cars had a connector near the transmission.


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The base c/o % was as specified before and worked and didn't stall at 500 rpms.
He also checked the oxygen sensor and that was functional.

I think I will try to adjust the timing to 10btdc and see how it acts then.

Any other ideas?
I don't think that advancing the timing is a good solution? Seems like something is broken.....

Dmitri

Be more specific.


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__________________
[http://languageandgrammar.com/2008/01/14/youve-got-problems-not-issues/ ]

"A liberal is someone who feels they owe a great debt to their fellow man, which debt he proposes to pay off with your money."

I wish I could be more specific...
It does not seem right to me that when you let go of the gas (and driving) that the car almost stalls and then starts back up or stalls.... none of my other cars do that, granted none of them are Mercedes. In my 96 Ford Ranger it was a problem of the idle solenoid located on the throttle body.
So I will advance the timing to 10deg and see how it drives then. I will also try to spray carb cleaner around the manifold and the air intake to see if there is a possible leak.

Dmitri

Not sure if I have the same problem with my 85' 380SE, but *sometimes* it will stall when I stop at a traffic light, when I am turning into a parking space, or when I start it and place it in gear. Its strange, because on the first trip out for the day, it does not do it. Only if I have to make a few different stops, it will do it on the next trips out. Sometimes it will go days without doing it. The other day it did it when I was turning off of the highway making a turn. When it was "upshifting" to lower gears when I slowed at the turn, it stalled. It always instantly restarts, but sometimes stalls again when I place it in drive, but sometimes it does not.

Its driving me crazy.

to 86560sl:
question for you, just to see if you have the exact same problem.
When the car is HOT (after you've driven for sometime) and you rev it up to 2000rpms and hold it for 10 seconds, then go down to 1300rpm and hold it for another 10 seconds, then abruptly drop the gas pedal and see if it stalls.

to dkveuro:
First let me thank you again for spending all this time to help me. Second let me say I am sorry for not following your EXACT advise because that's what fixed it. Let me tell you what I did please give me some feedback:
1. Found a bypassed valve/solenoid (on the driver side fender well, went from intake manifold to this solenoid (which has an electrical plug on it) then to the retard portion of the distributor module) so after finding out that this thing is only good for the stupid California Emission Control I capped the whole line off because it was constanly retarding my timing. The stalling was 60% gone, but still wasn't fixed and still ran weak at startup........
2. Then as per dkveuro, I checked the timing when the car was HOT (advance plugged) and it was about 2 or 3 deg (stock should be at 5), since I am at 5500 feet I added another 5 deg to the and ended at up 9deg. Then test drove the car and could not stall it, but it still ran weak on start up and I could still stall by holding at 1200 rpms and dropping the gas pedal.
3. I turned the mixture screw about 1/4 degree (from 12:30 to about 3 o'clock) and then test drove again. When I initially started the car black smoke came out of the pipe during idle (so running somewhat rich), but when I took off it had a lot more power to the point where the back tires actually span on take off. And it didn't stall at ALLL!!! YEAH>>!!!!!
Conclusion: My mechanic is not a very good one...... I am wondering if I am running a little rich and what the gas mileage should be????
Should I do anything else, please let me know. Rpm in drive is about 700 and in park about 900.