Excuse the kind of stupid question, but is there a way to fix the fan clutch on an 1992 300TE (M103 engine) to have it work permanently???

My cousin is having heat problems on his T and wants to do it, as he does not mind the constant noise of the fan or the extended operating temperature reaching timel.

I heard this procedure is easily done on 190s, but I wonder what is the proper way to do it, if possible, on an M103.

If you could point some suggestions or a link I would deeply appreciate it.

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A. Rosich
CL 500, 1998
S 500 L, 1998
E 320 T, 1995 [Sadly sold ]

I know that this is not the answer that you are looking for, but the proper way to deal with the issue is to find the cause of the overheating, and fix that instead.

Can you describe the overheating issue? What temperature does it get up to, and under what circumstances?

Phil

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'95 E300 Diesel, 264,000 Miles. [Sold it]

Well, usual signs of fun clutch failure: the engine will pass the 100 mark at heavy traffic. When it reaches 105 the electric fans kick in and things go back to normal (momentarily).

The thermostat has been changed, but it is obvious the main fan is not doing its job.

My cousin just wants to fix the fan to work constantly instead of dealing with the hassle (and cost) of putting a new fan clutch.

His tech says that he has done the procedure to several 190s, but the he is not sure on how to do it on an M103.

Hence the question.

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A. Rosich
CL 500, 1998
S 500 L, 1998
E 320 T, 1995 [Sadly sold ]

I have a 190.

I'd like to know how to do it.

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5 speed '91 190E 2.6 320,000 mi. (new car, fast, smooth as silk six, couldn't find any more Peugeots)
5 speed '85 Peugeot 505 2.5l Turbo Diesel 266,000 mi. (old car, fast for a diesel, had 2 others)
5 speed '01 Jetta V6 (new wifes car, pretty quick)
5 speed '85 Peugeot 505 2.2l Turbo Gas 197,000 mi. (wifes car, faster, sadly gone just short of 200k )
5 speed '83 Yamaha 750 Maxim 14,000 mi. (fastest)
0 speed 4' x 8' 1800 lb Harbor Freight utility trailer (only as fast as what's pulling it)

i think it places a drain on the engine...and hurts gas mileage...

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1989 300ce 129k
( facelifted front,updated tail lights, lowered suspension,bilstein sports, lorinser front spoiler, MOMO steering wheel, remus exhaust,stainless steel brake lines). (Gone)

1997 s320 154k (what a ride). Sold with 179k miles. Replaced with Hyundai Equus

1994 e320 Cabriolet 108k



1972 280se 4.5 153k Owned for 12 yrs, sorry I sold it


[/SIGPIC]

I totally agree. The kicker is that a new fan clutch probably won't solve the problem. The clutch starts turning the fan when the hot air flowing through the radiator causes a bimetalic spring to bend and port fluid inside the clutch. If the radiator tubes are restricted, the clutch doesn't sense any heat, so it doesn't make the fan turn.

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Auto Zentral Ltd.

The radiator on the 300TE is working perfectly, it was taken out to repair a leak outside of the unit and it was tested. Did O.K. on the test.

Yes, the fix fun clutch slightly increases fuel consumption, but the strain on the engine is minimun.

About how to do it on a 190? Well, the tech explained to my cousin and I the procedure. Although it sounded extremely simple, I would not venture on the details as it is not my expertize field.

Generally, he talked about the fan clutch on the 190s being magnetically operated. He places an special, very thin seal between the fan and the clutch when it is disengaged (which is supposed to be just a minituare clearence) and this will make the fan operate constant.

The seal is made of a special material which is heat resistant and also especially configured so it will make the fan operate straight (he mentioned other procedures used to fix the 190s fans which eventually offset fan rotation degrading its effectiveness).

But, back to the original topic, any clues on how to do it on an M103 300TE?

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A. Rosich
CL 500, 1998
S 500 L, 1998
E 320 T, 1995 [Sadly sold ]

Assuming it has not lost any silicon fluid, I would look into playing around with the bimetallic strip. Maybe replace it with something that would permanently hold in the pin that it pushes on?

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Ali Al-Chalabi

2001 CLK55
1999 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel
2002 Harley-Davidson Fatboy
Merlin Extralight w/ Campy Record

most auto parts stores carry fan clutch eliminators, which allow the fan, through a fixture to be bolted directly to the water pump. most of them have some variable bolt arrangement as the centering is done on the water pump shaft. there may or may not be a listing for your car, but one of them may fit anyway if you can figure the dimensions you need, bolt pattern and distance to radiator. a direct fan, by the way is an incredibly dangerous device, so make sure it is well shrouded from fingers, etc. also make sure your fan is capable of speeds well past what a clutched fan produces.

Mine's a viscous clutch. I expect after 15 years it may be low on oil.

I'm just wondering how to get it out.


My old Peugeots had electromagnetic clutches that luckily had both sides the same diameter so a hose clamp would lock them on. The manual also had the spec for it: 10.HP.

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5 speed '91 190E 2.6 320,000 mi. (new car, fast, smooth as silk six, couldn't find any more Peugeots)
5 speed '85 Peugeot 505 2.5l Turbo Diesel 266,000 mi. (old car, fast for a diesel, had 2 others)
5 speed '01 Jetta V6 (new wifes car, pretty quick)
5 speed '85 Peugeot 505 2.2l Turbo Gas 197,000 mi. (wifes car, faster, sadly gone just short of 200k )
5 speed '83 Yamaha 750 Maxim 14,000 mi. (fastest)
0 speed 4' x 8' 1800 lb Harbor Freight utility trailer (only as fast as what's pulling it)

If the radiator and t-stat are okay, plus the cooling system has no air, seems like air flow is being blocked or the clutch is bad.

New Behr ones are just over $100... They don't last forever and aren't that spendy.

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]