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  #1  
Old 04-30-2006, 07:26 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Hayden ID
Posts: 36
Have cash, need help. Too much oil pressure.

Please, anyone, I'm desperate. 8 weeks and I still aint got it figured out. 79 240d with way too much oil pressure. So much oil pressure that it keeps popping the o-ring out the side of the filter canister. I have changed the o ring, the filter, even changed the filter canister, all to no avail. Dropped the pan and checked the oil pressure relief valve, it's tweaked to the side (see picture), apperantly too much clearance between piston and cylinder. I put it back in it's place and it worked for a day, took the pan down again and i've got the same problem. If that valve sticks where the piston will not go back into the cylinder, is that too much or too little oil pressure? Is that likely the problem or is it a symptom of the problem? If that is the problem, does anyone know where I can buy just the valve or do I need a whole new pump? Anyone have valve or pump for sale? Got money that I'm ready to spend to get the car working again.

Thanks,

Jason
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  #2  
Old 04-30-2006, 08:35 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
dieselarchitect
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Lafayette Indiana
Posts: 38,913
did you check with phil on fastlane aboout getting a new valve?

i am not sure this is what you need, i have never heard of this problem before. are you sure yoiu have the right o ring on the filter housing? what brand of filters are you using? how many times has it blown out?

tom w
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  #3  
Old 04-30-2006, 09:07 PM
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Location: Hayden ID
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have tried mann and mahle filters with the respective o-rings. Pushing half a dozen times it's popped the o-ring out.
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  #4  
Old 05-01-2006, 12:00 AM
MrCjames's Avatar
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: SF Bay Area
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For the time and energy you have invested, try installing a new pump? It seems to me that if you are having problems with the pressure relief valve sticking then the logical approach would be a pump replacement. The cost effective approach might be to clean and or deburr the relief valve bore------

Last edited by MrCjames; 05-02-2006 at 12:56 PM.
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  #5  
Old 05-01-2006, 06:24 AM
Hirnbeiss's Avatar
ich fahre, also bin ich
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: South Florida
Posts: 1,671
Too much pressure

You need the Selecter: http://www.geocities.com/braunovi/Selecter/SelecterD1980TooMuchP.htm

Pressure is usually caused by something clogging the oil path, as in sludge. I would verify all passages are clear. Chances are your bearings are oil starved, so I wouldn't drive it until it's figured out.

The positive displacement pump is not likely to fail and generate a higher pressure.
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  #6  
Old 05-01-2006, 10:03 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,263
Before identifying the pump or relief valve as the clulprit, you need to check the pressure. The dashboard gauge tops out at 3, and as it's normal to run with it pegged, it's not up to the job.

You'll need to find an adaptor that will go into the block or at the gauge end of the oil pressure gauge line, and use a gauge with a higher limit.

You could have a warped oil filter housing.
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  #7  
Old 05-01-2006, 11:49 PM
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Location: Hayden ID
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[QUOTE=Hirnbeiss]
Pressure is usually caused by something clogging the oil path, as in sludge. I would verify all passages are clear. Chances are your bearings are oil starved, so I wouldn't drive it until it's figured out. QUOTE]

I have had the oil filter canister off and could blow air through one of the holes in the block, could hear the air through the oil fill. The other hole into the block, I could not blow any air, but I understand this is normal. The only thing not starved for oil is my driveway.
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  #8  
Old 05-02-2006, 06:01 AM
Hirnbeiss's Avatar
ich fahre, also bin ich
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: South Florida
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The relief valve should open at 5.8 bar

on the 601. Since pressure at 3000 rpm should reach 3 bar, and at idle 0.3 bar, the relief valve shouldn't open until you are well north of 4000 rpm.

If the problem started after a good rev session, maybe the relief valve is the culprit. It could have opened, and then got stuck shut in such a way as to stop relieving pressure. Hopefully they don't use relief valves of this design on nuclear power plants. Actually, on the picture I see from the 601, they have a guide pin under the piston that looks like it should prevent the piston from getting cocked like yours.

In any case, I think your most effective course of action now is to replace the relief valve. You already have the oil pan off. I don't know if the valve is sold separately, but the pump looks like it includes a new one, and costs $169.
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